14 November 2010

Ch 20, Pt 2: "Formal Dinner at the Birch House"

 

Legacy of
the Chief, Chapter
 20: "Formal Dinner at the Birch House-1924"  pt 2
click on picture for
larger image: some of these images appear in the book for
this chapter.




For weeks Douglass had been working on a highly detailed report which
was a compilation of the individual reports from each member of the
engineering staff. William Douglass assigned W.A. Richelsen to work with
all of us in settling on the final document which detailed the
operations of the mill and the mine sites. He was particularly
interested in determining the nature of the ore reserves for projecting
the life of the mine.

Everyone in camp was now aware that Birch’s private train had spent
three hours on the siding at McCarthy. The rumors were already buzzing.
Birch was never known to spend time in McCarthy. Something out of the
ordinary was underway. Since the mine had all the appearances of another
banner year of production, and everything was running quite well, few
could imagine the true reason for the visit. High-ranking visitors had
become exceedingly rare. Some ominous meaning had to be attached to it.


Frank walked up the wide L-shaped stairwell to his room on the second
floor. It faced uphill, looking up the sidewalk toward the
superintendent’s residence and the Birch guest house. He could see the
lights coming from two upstairs windows of the guest house, where Birch
and Jackling would stay over the next several days. Tomorrow would come
only too soon. He took off his clothes and set them on the high-backed
chair where the laundry-man would pick them up for cleaning and
starching tomorrow. Pulling on his robe, Frank stepped out into the
hallway holding his toilet articles bag.






Kennecott view 3


Kennecott in
1912 showing rear of staff house.  Note the detritus on
Kennicott Glacier in the background. 
--UAF,
Kennicott Photograph Collection, 60-62-4



At the north end was a single window which looked
at the hill upon which the main part of the mill and tram terminal
rested well above the staff house. The hallway lights were turned off.
There was just enough light coming through the north-end window to allow
him to find the two bathrooms on this floor. There were also five other
single rooms. All the doors were closed. He could see a light coming
through under the door of one of the bathrooms. He chose the other one.
The door into the large dark bath room was open.
 He entered and found the push-switch. After
turning on the light, Frank looked at his mustache in the mirror. It
would have to be trimmed. The facial hair helped the young man look more
mature, but it was not thick, like that of Russell or the other older
engineers. He examined his light, slightly wavy hair and realized he
would have to get a haircut tomorrow before the big night. His military
training served him well. Frank wanted to look exactly right. When the
engineers were together, they were usually informal, but two of the
company big-wigs were here. He wanted to look right, but not stand out.
He viewed himself again.



I still look like a kid. How can anyone take me seriously? My report
tomorrow better be right. How else can I ever impress them? I can’t even
take myself too seriously. Look at me. I can’t even grow a decent
mustache. Oh well. I’m here at Kennecott. I wanted it. I have it. That’s
a good start, anyway. Can’t let myself get too comfortable about being
here. The place is too much like home. Can’t get complacent. Have to
stay sharp. This is my career on the line. Heck, I’m too tired. I’ll
deal with this tomorrow.

 






Kennecott view 4


National Creek Complex,
early 1920s
.  The National Creek dam is in view to
the right of the Birch house, which is at the top of the board walk.
 --McCarthy-Kennicott Museum





Morning came early. It was six-thirty when Frank emerged from his room
to head for the staff annex for breakfast. He headed down the inside
stairs, out the door and down another set of stairs. The wide wooden
sidewalk ended at the private mess in the annex. The direction he
followed was downhill, passing office, then the hospital. At the base of
the hill a wide bridge crossed National Creek just upstream from the
flume which passed below the railroad trestle, channeling the creek
toward the glacier a few hundred feet below. A few years before, E.T.
Stannard had the carpenters revamp the first floor of the original
National Creek barracks, so the engineers could have their own mess
hall. That was the year the company opened the huge west barracks that
contained a 150-man dining hall. The working men now ate at the west
barracks. National Creek barracks no longer housed nor fed the workers.


The engineers would first gather for the day at the early breakfast in
the private mess. This was the first opportunity to compare notes before
officially beginning the day. These were the unmarried ones who lived in
the staff house. This year there were eight of them. There were two
other high-ranking ones who had wives on the site. The superintendent
always ate breakfast at his home uphill from the staff house, while the
chief engineer ate in his residence along the north cottage row across
from the power plant. This gave the lower ranking engineers an
opportunity to compare notes before facing the bosses in the office at
eight. The group of eight was talking among themselves much more than
usual at breakfast . They had only a few hours to finish the reports.
Some wanted to arrive at optimistic conclusions about the remaining ore
reserves, while a minority preferred the more realistic deduction that
there were no more major ore bodies.
The minority, including Frank were only mildly
impressed with the discovery of the four new veins along the Jumbo-Erie
crosscut. Frank happened to be the one who was working on the report
concerning the Jumbo-to-Erie 12,000-foot-long crosscut. The new tunnel
had been rushed to completion so that it could be operational by the
time Birch arrived. The deadline had been met with little time to spare.
By the time the distinguished guests arrived, the thirty-inch gauge
track would already be in place so the visitors could ride down the new
tunnel in a large ore car pulled by a brand-new battery-powered
locomotive purchased just for running that tunnel.




Above: early shot of the Kennecott engineers, circa 1912
--E.B. Schrock #84-80-98N, UAF AK & Polar Regions Photo Archives

Below: Late 1930s shot of the Kennecott engineers  
--W.A. Richelsen









The engineers were in the process of examining four newly-discovered
copper veins encountered during the driving the tunnel. It was the first
new copper discovery in any of the mines this year. They had not yet
determined the value of the showings, but had to make an educated guess
for the report.


Frank found the veins to be interesting, but not spectacular. He saw
nothing which showed him that they would amount to much. The assay
reports were good, but they gave no indication as to the size of the
veins. That could only be confirmed with core samples taken by diamond
drilling. The process was underway, but there were not enough samples to
arrive at a satisfactory conclusion. Frank noticed that the all the
samples showed relatively shallow veins before the drill-heads would
strike the barren host rock. This indicated to Frank that each of these
veins was likely to be relatively small. The head engineer, W.A.
Richelsen agreed with Frank’s conclusion. But Douglass seemed to want to
believe that the copper veins were major finds.

Frank wanted to be able to tell his bosses that they had found major ore
bodies, but his conservative nature led him toward the conclusion that
the discoveries were probably only of minor value relative to the great
Jumbo or the Bonanza veins. His experiences in the trenches in the Great
War taught him never to be too optimistic.


Frank pondered the matter long after breakfast as he sat at his desk
wondering how best to evaluate the four new showings in the next few
hours. Just then Russell popped his head into my cubicle of an office.

“It’s official, Frank. We’re all invited to dinner up at the Birch
house. This will probably be followed by some poker and cigar smoking,
and possibly some brandy or whiskey. Mrs. Nieding will oversee the
dinner. After dinner we engineers will be left alone to talk about
whatever we want, up to a point, of course. It’s supposed to be
semi-formal. W.A. recommends we wear our formal suits, just to be on the
safe side. We’ll assemble in the back room of the staff house and head
on up there at seven this evening.”






staff house interior


Staff house parlor room. 
--UAF AK & Polar Regions Photo Archives, Alaska Hst Soc, 84-48-37




“Sounds great to me, Russell. I have my formal suit pressed and ready in
my closet. Anything else?”


“Yes, stick to engineering subjects unless W.A. hints to us otherwise.
We have to be careful around these high officials to give them a feeling
of complete confidence in us. Don’t get into anything personal, and
don’t have any complaints. Everything is fine here. Right?”


“I got that, Russell. No problem. I’m just delighted to be among these
great engineers. I see it as an opportunity. I’ll remember that I have
no problems here. And, actually, I don’t. I love this place.”







Superintendent's residence on the left,
Birch house on the right, East Bunkhouse below Birch House,
hospital below Sup't res.
  --Nat Good #79-102-31, UAF
AK & Polar Regions Photo Archive




“See you in the back meeting room of the staff house a few minutes
before seven. Dress right.”


“Thanks, Russell. I’m an ex-officer. I think I can do that without any
problem.” Frank turned back to his report, pondering over the possible
conclusions which would meet the approval of Douglass.



I guess I better show some optimism, or Douglass won’t be happy, even
though I’m not impressed with the four ore veins I examined. No one
seems to think there’s anything major up there.



The eight engineers living in the staff house assembled in the rear
meeting room on the main floor of the staff house full business attire
early so they could discuss their matters of concern before meeting the
higher-ups. W.A. Richelsen, entered at five minutes to seven, looked
over everyone, and nodded his approval.


“Gentlemen, we are about to meet our top bosses at the Stephen Birch
house. We have not had an event like this since 1916. We must make a
good impression with Birch and Jackling, as is quite obvious. Follow my
example and my lead, and everything should go well. Dinner is
semiformal, so act accordingly. Watch Birch and Jackling very closely
and then look at me before you say or do anything. Now let’s head on
out.”


The group headed out of the meeting room, down the short hallway and
through the front room, which was the preferred common area for the
staff of men and women who lived there. The women occupied the third
floor. The front room was on the main floor in the southwest corner. It
had two large windows on each wall overlooking the office and the
glacier. The view from these windows was quite impressive due to the
relative height of the staff house to the large buildings at track
grade. Beyond the front room was the wide entryway and stairwell. The
front door opened to a wide porch and a set of stairs leading one level
down to the walkway. The group turned up the walkway, heading uphill.
The rambling single-story Douglass residence was uphill on the left.







Riding behind National Creek dam at
Kennecott, circa 1911.  The manager's (Stephen Birch) house
was built just downstream and to the right of this  dam in
1916.
    --Simpson files






To the right they could hear the roar of National Creek where a
thirty-foot waterfall plunges into a narrow gorge below the walking
bridge in front of the Birch house. The narrow gorge funneled the creek
to the back of the hospital. This was a wide area which then narrowed as
the creek turned to pass between the two barracks to the south and the
hospital on the north. The creekbed below the waterfalls was a flood
plain. No one had expected the creek to be subject to flooding,
especially since there was a dam above the Birch house which would
normally control the rate of flow. Yet the creek sometimes threatened
the foundations of these three buildings during heavy rainfalls and when
the snow was rapidly melting in the mountains just above the mill site
in May and June.

Continue with
"Formal Dinner at the Birch House," pt 3, conclusion


Ch 20, Pt 1: "Formal Dinner at the Birch House"





Legacy of the Chief,
Chapter 20: "Formal Dinner at the Birch House-1924"






Stephen Birch House



The Stephen Birch Guest House, Christmas, circa 1924 --
colorization by Armando Santini


Stephen Birch’s private train, headed by Mikado
No. 73 quietly slipped into Kennecott at the small telegraph station at
the National Creek trestle. Compared to the typical large train consists
of thirty-five steel flatcars with numerous boxcars and a passenger
combine in front, this one appeared odd with a very large locomotive
pulling only an observation car, with nothing else--not even a caboose.
The train arrived in a midsummer late afternoon day that was stunning.
The Chugach Range in the distant background to the south stood out
starkly, appearing larger than usual, the irregular ridge tops
highlighted by the deep blue hues in absolutely cloudless skies.




It had been a pleasant July day without becoming too hot, because of the
modifying effects of Kennicott Glacier with the light breezes which
helped keep the relatively narrow valley cooler than the Nizina Valley
riverbanks and adjacent lowlands to the south. Evening approached as the
train arrived, bringing long shadows from Fireweed Mountain directly to
the west across the four-mile-wide glacier.


The entire office staff, headed by manager Bert Nieding and
Superintendent Bill Douglass, stood on the railroad platform to greet
the special guests. Not only were distinguished visitors becoming
increasingly rare, but Stephen had not appeared at Kennecott in nearly a
decade. The other director was almost as well-known. Every mining
engineer had heard of the legendary Dan Jackling, but none but Bill
Douglass had ever met him. Jackling, like Birch, was a very
impressive-looking man who could fit as well in a high corporate office
on Broadway Street in New York as he did in remote mine sites like this
one.










Kennecott view 1


Kennecott, circa 1918     --Candy
Waugaman Collection




The train party of four moved on to a brief meeting at the private mess
in the old National Creek barracks, just uphill from the small station
and telegraph building. It was an informal get-together, enabling all
the parties to meet and relax in advance of the more serious business
meetings which would begin tomorrow.

Frank Buckner, the junior engineer, was among them. He frequently found
himself with the assignments no one else wanted. After lunch at the
Staff Annex, he and the other engineers watched as Birch, Jackling,
Nieding and Douglass briskly walked up the long wooden walkway toward
the Birch guest house towering over National Creek at the top of the
hill. The two corporate aides followed at a respectful distance. The
housekeeping staff had already prepared the Birch guest house right down
to the setting out of cigars and brandy in the well appointed reception
room.


The rest of the engineers were now done for the day. The bachelors
headed for the staff house. Buchner was among them. His companion was
Russell Belvedere.


“You know, Russell, I’ve never been up there.”


“You may have your chance to see it tomorrow, Frank. Expect to see
dinner invitations issued to the entire engineering staff.”


“Really? I never heard anything about this.”


“Hey, Frank, you know be by now. I always know what’s going on before it
happens. Actually, I talked to the boss’s stenographer. She knows before
anyone else what’s going on around here since she makes up the schedule
for the old man.”


“You mean Douglass?”


“Yes, the super, who else?”


“Formal dinner?”


“Probably. You better have yourself ready, just in case. We have a full
day ahead of us working on those reports the superintendent assigned us
while the big-shots are in meetings all day. After that, I expect we’ll
be getting together.”






Kennecott at track grade, circa 1915.   
--Lulu Fairbanks, #68-69-1326N, UAF AK & Polar Regions Photo Archives






Continue with
"Formal Dinner at the Birch House," pt 2

Ch 19, Pt 2: "Birch Party at McCarthy"


Legacy of the Chief,
Chapter 19, pt 2:
"Birch Party at McCarthy-1924"

click on picture for
larger image: some of these images appear in the book for
this chapter.








Bradford Washburn 1938-39 aerial of Shushanna
Avenue, McCarthy, from the Mother Lode power plant in the foreground to
the Mother Lode railroad warehouse on top. 





“Mr. Birch, is that you? It certainly is! What a pleasant surprise!”



He set the cue stick down and immediately walked over to shake the older
man’s hand. When he moved, Birch recognized the young man.



“You’re Nicolai’s Grandson. Now I remember you. That was so long ago. I
can hardly believe I’m seeing you here. How fortuitous!”



“Fortuitous?”



“It was just pure luck for me to walk into this place and find you
here.”



“Oh. Okay, Mr. Birch. Let me introduce you to the others. The man I am
about to beat at this game is my brother Cap. And this beautiful lady is
my sweetheart, Rose. Her friend over there is Bubbles. She’s with Cap.”



Birch shook hands with Cap and nodded his hat to Rose and Bubbles.



Cap looked hard at Birch and nodded, but said nothing.



“Oh, yes, and that’s my ever-faithful companion, Kay-you-nee. The name
means ghostly spirit. He has a way of appearing whenever I need him, and
then vanishing at other times. He stays with me when I work the railroad
jobs. We walk the tracks together.”



Stephen turned to the rest of his party.



“Gentlemen, this is Johnny Gakona, whom I met on my honeymoon when I
traveled through Chitina in 1916. He was a grandson of a very fine man
who treated some of us white men probably better than we deserved. Dan
Jackling nodded toward Johnny.



“And who would that fine man be, Stephen?”



“Dan, he was none other than Nicolai the Tyone of Taral. It was Nicolai
who first revealled the source of the copper to a member of the
McClellan Group. They’re the ones who sold me the Bonanza claims.”

“Johnny, this is one of our board members, Daniel Jackling.”



“I am honored to meet a grandson of such a legendary man.”



“Then meet Cap, who is also a grandson.”



Cap again sized the man up quietly as he shook hands in silence. 
Stephen continued with the introductions.



“These two young men are our assistants, Dermot Preston and Cecil Heinze.”



“I remember you, Dermot though I did not hear your name back then. You
came into the billiards hall at Chitina and sent for the brandy. This is
my sla’cheen Cap. He was not around town back then.”



Cap shook his hand and that of Cecil, sizing them up as well. He
remained silent.  Dermot observed Cap, who was carefully
scrutinizing the four corporate men as he met each one.

 

He’s the perfect model of
a cigar store Indian. At least he surely looks like one. I’ve
always wanted to meet one. Now I have. He’s measuring us by some
incomprehensible Native standard. I don’t think we’re meeting
his approval. Too bad. I have a good feeling about the man,
whoever he really is. We’re missing something important here. I
doubt if my traveling companions sense the power of this one,
but I feel it. He’s real.






“Johnny, as my train approached this town, I decided we all could us a
break before resuming Kennecott business. It seems most serendipitous
that I would run into you here, especially since I doubt I’ll ever
return to this country again.”



“Serendipitous?”



“Lucky, very lucky. I’m just pleased to see the grandson of someone who
meant so much to me in his own way. I’m not trying to take anything away
from you, but Nicolai and I had a special relationship that was highly
beneficial to both of us.”



“Special relationship?”



“Almost friends. We were never really true friends, but we made things
happen for your people. Nicolai made me agree to some things that worked
out well, even for my company. But I don’t want to get into that.




“It’s just good to see you. I’m ready for a game and a chance to get
even for losing to you that last time. Dan, I’m sure you’ll understand
if I step foreward to take this first game. You get to play the winner
of this round.”



“Fine with me, Stephen. It’s my kind of game. I’ll challenge the
winner.”





Shushanna Jct


Shushanna Junction, McCarthy   --Candy Waugaman
collection






old McCarthy depot


Old depot at McCarthy with Wells Fargo telegraph service sign
in view
   --Simpson File
s




“We’ll take the next table, ” Dermot said, signaling Cecil to follow
suit. The aides wisely chose not to involve themselves in the game
between Johnny and Birch. Neither one wanted to take the chance of
actually winning any kind of game against Birch or Jackling. They both
knew far better than to make either boss look bad.

“Cap, I’ll challenge you, if that’s okay with you. Cecil can play the
winner.”



Cap, having just lost the game to Johnny, looked at Dermot and
contemplated the matter for a few moments.

“First I’ll take you. Then I’ll take your partner. Then you two will
have to play off on the third table, because I’m going to challenge
Johnny or your boss after that.”



“You’re on, Cap. Before I shoot I need to check with the bosses on just
one matter. Sirs, do either of you desire cigars or brandy?”



Birch looked toward Dan Jackling. Then he looked toward the proprietor,
who had remained inconspicuous during all this interaction. Cecil had
already whispered something to the man, and the proprietor spoke up.

 

“So you really are Mr. Stephen Birch? Your aide
tells me you have brandy on the train. I have cigars here. Please feel
free to bring in your own brandy. Consider this place yours. I am
honored.”



“Cecil, go ahead and bring in the brandy. Dermot, select some cigars
from that man and purchase one for all of us men. Would you ladies care
for anything?”



“Got a cigarette, mister?”



“Cecil, see if you can get the ladies some cigarettes. And, Dermot, make
sure you bring enough brandy in here for the ladies as well. Johnny,
we’ll hold up the game a moment until Cecil returns, if that’s
agreeable.”



Johnny realized this was not a request. He nodded his assent.

 

Cecil rushed to the business car and quickly
returned with two bottles of brandy and some glasses. These he carried
effortlessly as though he had been professionally trained as a waiter.
Dermot passed out the cigars after offering cigarettes and a light to
both women. Dermot said something to the proprietor, handing him
something.



The owner of the Mecca walked over and locked the front doors, making
the affair a private party.



“Gentlemen, let’s light up and enjoy a good cigar out here in the middle
of this great Alaskan wilderness. Is the brandy all poured? Very good.”



Stephen lifted his glass. The others quickly responded.



“Ladies and gentlemen, to the continued prosperity of this great
territory and especially of the people of this valley. May our copper
mines bring great wealth to all who live here.”

Dan Jackling contemplated Stephen’s toast.

 

That’s it, Stephen. Make
them all think the mine and the railroad will be here forever,
as though the copper will never run out. Let them think this is
a lasting prosperity. Give them false hopes, if it pleases you.
What a joke.






“How did things work out with you and the railroad,” Birch asked Johnny.



“Well, sir, it certainly was a growing up experience. I learned to deal
with some very rough men, some of whom thought they could get the better
of me, one way or the other. They never did, and I always held up my
end. I have worked with the company every breakup season ever since.”



“Cap joined me at the Cascade camp shortly after I started. He has
worked with me on every railroad job I’ve had ever since. We’ve never
worked more than a few months at a time because we both have to help
with the fishing and the hunting. We also each have our winter trap
lines. We even do guiding for trophy hunters in the fall.

“I learned of a shortage of help at Green Butte
and decided that mining would be different experience worth trying. Then
it was a matter of talking Cap into joining me. Indians work better as a
team. Even better as part of a whole crew, but that wasn’t possible. We
both applied for work with Mr. Barrett, who hired us both.



“While we’re waiting for the wagon to pick us up, we’re just hanging
around this small town. I found Rose here.”



“You’re going from railroad work to hard-rock mining? That’s quite a
change.”





Alaskan pool hall


Alaskan Pool Hall, McCarthy   --Jim Edwards photo



“You mean because we’re Indians? Cap and I want to prove we can handle
anything. Railroad work brings in money. We need money just like anyone
else. But the same job year after year gets too old. You white men think
this is just your world. We’ll prove you wrong. We try our best to be at
least as good as the best white man who works beside us. So far, we’ve
beat every one of them.”



“You’ve convinced me. I haven’t forgotten my promise to your grandfather
either. When you want to see the continental part of America and further
your education, write me at the company. Or send a telegram. The
railroad can find me. You will reach me. I will answer.”



“I’ve thought about it many times, Mr. Birch. Someday I may just take
you up on it. Not quite yet. That’s a very big step. It means leaving
everything behind. I’m not ready for something like that. Maybe soon.”



“I may be sticking around in the area for awhile, as I am concerned
about my father, who is the head painter at Kennecott. I have already
visited him. He doesn’t look well at all. And he has slowed down a lot.



“Really? I didn’t know. I can certainly appreciate a young man showing
that kind of concern for his father. I’ll make a point of checking on
him while I’m there, so I can see if there is anything I can do. While
I’m visiting, I’ll extend your greetings.”



“That would be good of you, Mr. Birch. Our time is running short. We
have to ready ourselves for tomorrow in case the Green Butte foreman
comes into town. We’ll be on our way now. It’s been a great pleasure,
sir.”



“I wish you well, young man. I thought the world of your grandfather. It
was quite a pleasant surprise to run into you here. You made my
afternoon. Remember what I said. There is another world out there. It’s
yours if you want it.”



The four of them and the dog headed for the ramshackle cottages lining
McCarthy Creek upstream from the old Motherlode power plant which stood
silent at the southern end of Shushanna Avenue.



“I don’t know about that Birch guy or his companions, Johnny He is still
who he is. This is not our world anymore. He and his kind control it.”



“Maybe it isn’t ours like it was, but I see you adapting to it just
fine, Cap. Neither you nor anyone else lives like our grandfather and
his brothers and sisters did before the railroad came. We work for them.
We get money. We spend it.”



“The money is nice to have, sla’cheen. It takes money to buy tobacco and
alcohol and even women.”

Rose and Bubbles politely ignored Caps words, but Johnny gave Cap a hard
look and then thought about his reply.



“Let’s get Bubbles or Rose to find us a bottle while we still have some
money left. Hopefully, John Barrett at the Green Butte will be ready for
us renegades soon, ” he said in a half-joking manner.

The train’s whistle blew. Johnny turned around.



“Come on Yew-nee, let’s walk up to the station and watch the train
leave."

 The dog’s ears went straight up and his tail
started wagging. Johnny usually called him by the shorter name. It was
easier to say.



The women headed off toward town to find a bottle, while Johnny and Cap
headed back toward the train. It was pulling out of the siding. The two
Indians and the dog watched the private train slowly puff out of sight
as it rounded a bend at the end of the mile-long straight run north of
the depot. The tracks ran between Porphyry Mountain and Kennicott
Glacier. Not only the 7000-foot mountain, but even the glacier towered
high above the rails. As late afternoon began turning into evening, a
cold breeze began blowing down the glacier from the icy upper reaches of
the Wrangells twelve thousand feet above the glacier itself.

The three figures stood alone next to the depot,
their eyes fixed on the rails long after the train was out of sight on
its final run into Kennecott.



“Someday I’ll ride in the cab of one of those iron-horses, Cap.”



“Someday you’ll ride one of those iron-horses right out of here,
Sla’cheen. I hope you remember those of us you leave behind."

 




 McCarthy

McCarthy from across McCarthy Creek   --Ben Jackson
Photo





gravel train at McCarthy


Gravel train
being pushed by CRNW engine #71 approaches the Kennicott River trestle near McCarthy with
Fireweed Mountain in background  

--McCarthy-Kennicott Museum



Continue with
Chapter 20,  "Formal Dinner at the Birch House"



Ch 19, Pt 1: "Birch Party at McCarthy"






Map of the Chitina Local Branch of the
Copper River & Northwestern Railway




Legacy of the Chief,
Chapter 19, Pt 1:
"Birch Party at McCarthy-1924"

click on picture for
larger image: some of these images appear in the book for
this chapter.




Chokosna


Chokosna depot   --McCarthy-Kennicott Museum






Lakina





Lakina Trestle, just beyond Crystal Lake



--E.B. Schrock #84-80-72, UAF AK & Polar Regions Photo Archives




Special No. 73 began slowing down
as it approached Crystal Lake. The small trestle by the water tower
required much slower speeds. The train passed the steam-powered sawmill
operation at the lake, then picked up speed again until the Lakina River
trestle came into view. This marked the extreme western end of the Long
Lake area where the train would wind its way along the lake while
beginning to climb into the hills. The pace would be much slower during
the next fifteen miles as the train worked its way through a series of
hills and trestles spanning steep creek gorges. Sourdough Peak finally
came into view somewhere beyond Swift Creek. Then Porphyry Mountain
emerged, signaling that McCarthy was only a brief distance ahead.

 Just beyond the gravel pit at
Porphyry, the train began a long descent into the Kennicott River
valley, emitting three loud whistle blasts to announce its impending
arrival at Shushanna Junction. Porphyry Mountain and Sourdough Peak
dominated the view as the train headed down the east slope of Fireweed
Mountain. Then entire south face of Bonanza Ridge became visible. The
most distinctive of the peaks along this ridge was Castle Rock, which
marked the site of the rich Jumbo mine a thousand feet below the summit.
Finally, the array of red buildings which were the mill complex could be
seen below the rock glacier on the northwestern face of Porphyry. At the
base of the valley the prominent glacier was so heavily laden with
detritus that it appeared to be an enormous tailings pile. The rugged
and rocky face of the Kennicott Glacier ended abruptly just short of the
long railroad trestle north of the small settlement of McCarthy.




Long Lake


East side of Long Lake   --AMHA B12.32.297



After a series of curves the slope leveled. The short consist approached
the riverbed flood plain. It passed another active gravel pit with a
siding which included a wye used for turning the maintenance trains
around on the west bank of the river. Just ahead was the final approach
to the quarter-mile long trestle which crossed the roaring Kennicott
River. A 50,000-gallon water tower stood at the eastern end of the
low-lying trestle. Just beyond an assortment of warehouses, small
barracks, a mess hall, sheds and the locomotive repair and storage
buildings left the impression of a busy railroad junction. The railroad
built these to meet the demands of the Chisana gold rush of 1913 and to
facilitate copper ore loads coming from the Motherlode and Green Butte
Mines. Three years later the rush was over. In 1918 Kennecott acquired
Mother Lode, ending the hauling of ore down the creek to McCarthy.
Besides the small town of about 200, only the Green Butte and a handful
of small gold mines in the Nizina gold district used the railroad
junction by 1924.




Approaching McCarthy:



McCarthy View a


Above: Candy Waugaman collection / Below: AMHA B72.32.295


McCarthy View b


Below: from the Candy Waugaman collection


McCarthy View c




Like Chitina with its large empty
hotels, McCarthy already had in its midst several railroad buildings
which served no purpose. Amidst these was the depot, which was placed
right at the junction where a spur line led into town, paralleling the
main business street known as Shushanna Avenue. The depot appeared to be
busy from time to time depending on the business activity at McCarthy.
By 1924 the town was slowly dying, but few realized that McCarthy had
only a limited lifespan. Kennecott had settled into a routine which
brought far less business to McCarthy. The Great Depression would nearly
kill the town in the early 1930’s. In 1938, the closing of the Kennecott
mines and the shutting down of the railroad finally doomed the town.



Birch and Jackling and the two aides watched this panorama develop as
the private train winded its way down the hill at the base of Fireweed
Mountain with great interest. The valley had a prehistoric and at the
same time a ghostly appearance which was enhanced by the jagged hilltops
of Bonanza Ridge and the sheer massiveness of Porphyry Peak, which is a
treeless steeply rising basalt dome with deep vertical cuts throughout
its western face. The proximity of the glacier which caused the town to
appear very diminutive in comparison further enhanced the effect.



Stephen Birch impulsively decided he wanted to take a break in McCarthy
before continuing to Kennecott. He sent the word up to the engineer to
pull up beyond the switch at the depot, then back through the switch to
the end of the siding at the northern edge of the town.






July 4th on Shushanna Ave


July 4th on Shushanna Avenue, McCarthy  
--Eleanor Tjosevig photo





The two Kennecott directors, along with two aides who had accompanied
them, Dermot and Cecil, stepped off the back of the observation car onto
Shushanna Avenue and headed across the small street toward a large
building which housed the McCarthy Drug Store. Stephen picked the Mecca,
an establishment which featured billiards tables and a card room as a
likely place to relax. The Alaskan was a similar establishment anchoring
the northern end of the two story drugstore, but it appeared to be
closed.



Cecil was the first to reach the door. He held it open as Birch,
Jackling and finally Dermot entered. Birch thought he recognized the
Indian shooting a game of billiards at the closest table. The
well-dressed woman standing next to him wore makeup which strongly
hinted that she was a part of the town’s night time entertainment. She
appeared to be at a good ten years older than the Indian.



His opponent was a slightly shorter Indian with the strong build of one
who had worked hard all his life. The woman with him also appeared to be
a female escort, but she was much shorter and almost plump. A large dog
sat a few feet away intently watching the four people playing the game.



Johnny turned to see the distinguished party of four enter the hall.




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