04 February 2011

Legacy of the Chief, Chapter 27: "Boxing Match at Kennecott-1924"

         
We have been given the role of guardians of this land, for
we are the Children of the Earth.  We must never forget this nor give up
our role, for it was given us by the Great Creator--He who is even over
the raven and the wolf, the bear and the fox--and who is over every one
of us.  This land belongs only to the Great Creator.  It was he who has
given us life within it and it is he who has placed on us the duty to
protect this land and all the creatures who dwell here.
--Chief Nicolai speaking to his grandsons at the Spirit Camp
of Taral in 1910



staff row

View of the Kennicott Glacier from Staff Row: Many of the
engineers lived in the 3-story staff house shown here.   
--Anchorage Museum of History & Art
         
 Kennecott had a class structure resembling that of the military where
the enlisted men and officers do not mix socially.   In the case of
Kennecott, the engineers and managers who ran the camp remained separate
from the miners and other wage earners.   The foremen, who generally
came up from the ranks of their individual specialties--be it in as a
carpenter, electrician, millwright or miner--could be compared to the
non-commissioned officers of military service.  It was these men and
their families who lived in the thirty cottages as they became
available. The lower class of workers did not keep families on the
property.   Few of them stayed with Kennecott more than one season.  The
employee turn-over averaged in excess of 200 percent.
          
The engineers in particular seldom spoke with the workers.  They were kept
insulated from them in some ways almost as fully as were the children
who grew up there.  Because of this separation of the engineers from the
others, Johnny found it very difficult to communicate with Frank
Buckner. There were things which concerned him which he would like to
have discussed with the young engineer.  Foremost on his mind was the
condition of his father Emil, who was showing a steady decline in health
as fall began to move into winter. 
          
The carpenters, electricians and machinists completed the  new and improved
power plant on schedule, though at considerable cost.   As the
carpenters finished their work, the painting crews moved in behind them,
ready to tackle the job of finishing the massive exterior walls before
late fall arrived.  Johnny and Cap very quickly made names for
themselves due to their willingness to work long hard hours.  Under the
watchful eye of Emil the painting was of the highest quality.   The two
became well known for their lack of fear working in high places.  Their
work extended to the industrial black coating the two applied to the
four eighty-foot smokestacks, which began on a roof line thirty-five
feet above the ground.
          In time
their presence at Kennecott was grudgingly accepted.   The two  became
fixtures in the yard, paint and carpenter crews.  They were always there
when a train needed to be loaded or unloaded. They performed their work
without delay or complaint.  Occasionally someone would come along who
wanted to put them through a test, but the Indians were able to
successfully convince all challengers but one to take them on either on
the billiards table or at the small basketball court in the recreation
hall or on the softball field just south of the barracks.  Camp life
worked out well for the two Natives who came to Kennecott just to prove
they could do it.
         
The single challenger who refused to take on the two at one of the games,
insisted on boxing with Cap.  Somehow rumors of Cap’s boxing skills
followed him from Chitina. 
         
Henry Jackson was in the billiards room when he heard the brash young Aaron
challenge Cap.
         
“I’ll fight you in the ring, siwash, and put an end to the rumors of your
invincibility once and for all.”
         
Henry was up instantly to deflect the blow he knew was coming, while Johnny
restrained Cap from striking back. Cap shoved Johnny out of the way and
moved forward toward the taller and heavier man who had tried to strike
him.
        
"Any time, white man.  You name the place.  We’ll see who gets to call the
other names.”
          
Henry placed himself between the two men.
          
“Stop ! Not here ! Cap, you really want to do this?”
          
Cap nodded an unmistakable affirmation.
          
“Aaron, are you sure?”
          
Aaron tried to get past Henry to strike at Cap.
          
“Okay, then.  Here’s what we’ll do.  Management will never allow this, so you
men have to keep quiet about it.  I’ll set up a boxing match right now
in the rec hall.  Whoever loses, leaves camp for good.  And I don’t want
to ever hear anything more about it, or I’ll personally come after
either one of you.  Are we agreed?”
          
That was it.  The fight was on.  The men were ready.  Henry and the other
foremen who lived at the barrack would have to pull this off right under
the noses of the engineers, or risk having everyone fired, including
themselves.
          
“Give us an hour.  Those of you who work with Aaron,  keep him away from Cap. 
Cap, you stay with Johnny until I get back to you.  Whatever you do,
don’t go near Aaron until I have the boxing ring set up.  It just
happens that I have boxing gloves.  It’s my sport.  I’m taking some men
with me to set up for the fight.”
          
“Cap, are you crazy?  Now you have to win, or we’ll both have to leave. 
They’ll never let any of us back in after that.”
          
“Not crazy. He’s bigger. Maybe stronger.  I’m better.  White man will fall  hard. 
No more siwash.  Tired of hearing it.”
         
Emil came into the room.

 
“I heard what’s going on, boys.  The whole camp knows by now.  Even some of the 
engineers probably know. My bet is they’re going to let this one pass.  It’s been 
coming to this for some time now.   Henry’s on your side, you know.  I’m going out 
and taking bets.  Hope you’re as good as your reputation, Cap.”
          
          Cap growled.
          
“Sounds
good to me.  I’ll be back to escort you boys to the ring.  Wait for me
here in the room. Better limber yourself up, Cap.  That’s a big, tough
boy down there.”
          It was almost an hour later when Emil and several of his cronies arrived to
escort the two Indians. 
         
“Most of them are putting their money on Aaron.  We’ll clean up, Cap.”
          
“No more talk. Time to box.”


recreation hall

The recreation hall was on the west side of the tracks, down
hill from the five-plex apartments in South Kennecott.  
--McCarthy-Kennicott Museum
          When
Cap and Johnny approached the recreation hall, surrounded by a group of
men who were clearly gambling on the Indian, they found the place
completely packed. Aaron was already inside with his shirt off and his
gloves ready, anxious for a chance to pummel Cap.  He had the build of a
weigh-lifter.
          
“This doesn’t look good, Cap.”
         
“No worry, Sla’cheen.  This is what I know best.  Believe in me.  Cap
no fool. Big man fall hard.”
         
When Cap pulled off his shirt, he revealed a wiry, muscular body, though
easily thirty pounds lighter than his opponent.  He was thick through
the shoulders, arms and chest.  When the men looked into Cap’s eyes, it
appeared that Aaron was about to encounter the soul of a wolverine.  The
ferocity in his face even gave Aaron a moment of doubt.  It was all that
Cap needed.
          
“Where did Henry come up with this rope and gloves in such short order,” Johnny
asked his father.
         
“Son, Henry’s been waiting for an opportunity like this since he got here. 
He’s probably only disappointed that he’s not the one in the ring.  He
loves to box.  That’s what he did in the states.”
          
Johnny felt someone squeeze his shoulder.  He turned an went white.  There was
Frank smiling.  Frank was tall enough to tower over Johnny, who was
himself six-foot-two. All the men saw the young engineer at the same
time. The room went silent.  Frank motioned them to continue. 





The Kennecott junior mining engineer Frank Buckey (real name) in 1924
    
      
“It’s all right, Johnny.  We know. We don’t approve of this sort of thing, but
we’re going to let this one happen.  I’m here to make sure no one thinks
they’re going to run over you guys.  If the men mobbed you, we’d risk
problems we don’t want.  Besides, I believe in Cap.  I wagered with my
friend Russell.  Russell bet on Aaron.”
          
Henry rang the bell.  Aaron immediately struck out.  He had a longer reach and
considerable power.  Cap fell.  There were several cheers, then
silence.  Cap pulled back and sprung up, then motioned Aaron foreword. 
Aarron bounded foreword and found himself on the floor.  He pulled
himself up and found himself on the floor again. Aaron put everything he
had into his final attempt to strike Cap.  Cap met him with a perfect
counter-punch, knocking the man cold.  It was over.
          
“No more siwash !” Cap yelled, as he held up his gloved hands. 
          
“No more fight !”
          
They were back in 205.  Aaron moved to the east barrack for the night.  He
would be leaving on the train the next day. 
          
“He barely touched you when he knocked you down that one time.  Look at
you.  There’s not a mark on you.  Why did you let him knock you down.”
          
“Out of practice.”
          
“I think you let him do it.”
          
“No matter now.  Problem over.”
          
The next day the men went about their work as if nothing had happened. 
Aaron left as he had agreed.  There was never a word of any kind from
management.  Work went smoothly.  Cap found that he was receiving
considerably more signs of respect than had been the case before.  The
power plant was nearly completed.  Frank called the two men into the
office.  
         
“I’ve been watching you two on the job.  So has our head engineer Mr.
Richelson.  We’ve been talking about you up here and we’re all pleased
with you. Unfortunately, work will be slowing here with the end of the
power plant job. You will probably be among those who are laid off for
the season.  However, if that is the case, I would still like to see you
be available early next season because we have another big painting job
coming up.  And by the way, thanks to you, Cap, I’m one paycheck richer.
I knew you could
do it.”

Alvin Williams
 Native-American boxer Alvin Williams

          Cap gave Frank one of his rare smiles.
          
“We were just getting into the rhythm of the work here.  We’re both sorry to
go so soon.  Right, Cap?  We’re wondering if there’s anything else
coming up.  If not, we always have winter trapping.
         
“Before you send us on our way, I’ve been wanting to ask you about Dad.   This
is the first time we’ve been together long enough to talk.”
          
“You must be referring to the bad decline in his health, Johnny?”
         
“Yes, he’s not going to be able to work much longer. Now that Cap and I are 
leaving soon, maybe I can convince him to leave with us.   I need to get
him somewhere that we can take care of him.”
         
“We’ve discussed it. We figured we’d take advantage of this big layoff now that
the new plant is almost completed and things are nearly back to normal
to go ahead and end his job as well.  I could have probably keep you
here longer, but I already know how concerned you are about him. So I
guess we can look at this as an opportunity.”
          
Frank was sounding too much like he represented the company to suit Johnny. 
It appeared that Kennecott simply wanted to get rid of his dad while it
was convenient to do so, which would probably have to happen soon
anyway. He expected to hear something more personal coming from Frank.  
Frank sensed Johnny’s irritation.
          
“Look, I really have been happy with having you two here.  I don’t want this to
sound like the bum’s rush.  It is not.  You’ve made it easy for me to
have you rehired next year. I’ll have you requested back if you send a
letter to the superintendent asking for employment again early next
year.  The super’s truly pleased with both of you.   I am sorry I could
not visit with you during the time you’ve been here.  Believe me. But
it’s just not done.  You know how it works around here. Let me know if
there is anything I can do for you. I’ll sure try to help.
          
Now, let me finish what I was about to say.
          
“Next year the superintendent wants the top of the mill repainted.”
          
“We already figured that out.”
         
“You did?”
         
“First thing we noticed on arriving here is how badly the mill needs a new
paint job.  You can tell it gets hit hard by the winds.”
          
“You’re right. It’s overdue. It’s a very large job. Most men don’t want to work
up that high.   We also have plans to nearly double the size of the
hospital.   This should have been done long ago. We need more living
space in that  building for the doctors family as well as apartments for
the nurses.
          
“I’ve seen that your carpentry skills have developed as you worked with under
Chris Jensen, so I’m sure you can get on the hospital  job as well. 
Anyway, we’re going ahead with the expansion, so there will be plenty of
work here for you if you want it. ”
         
“Speaking for myself,  I’ve been happy here. The pay is good.  But I
need to get back to being Indian for a while. That’s hard to do around
here.  So I’ll be more than happy to leave soon.   But if my brother
here wants to come back next year, and you still want me, I’ll be here
with him. We work very well together.  Long ago made a pact about that.”
          
Frank nodded at him. “Actually, Cap, your presence has provided us an
unexpected bonus.  We have a practice here of placing our nationalities
together and working them as teams.  It just works out better.  But
you’ve also shamed the others into doing better work than usual. They
just can’t let an Indian show them up.  You have, anyway, in my
opinion.”
          
“We noticed the same thing happen at Green Butte.  Even Mr. Barrett
commented on it. Cap and I seem to keep the others motivated somehow. 
Speaking of that, we still haven’t been asked to work up in the mines.
We have the experience for that now, you know.  We both have learned
something about being  muckers and power men.  And we’ve also worked
drill stoping machines.”
          
“I expect to be reassigned back to the mines myself.  If there’s any way at
all that I can get you up there, believe me, I will.  As you know, I’ve
been on this power plant project since before you got here.  I may not
even be down here if you come next year, as most of us engineers are
needed up on the hill, especially at Mother Lode.  I’m primarily a
geologist.  And a good one.  That’s what I came here for anyway. ”
          
“I know that you can’t socialize with us here at camp, but I would love to
challenge you to a game of pool or two at the Mecca in McCarthy if you
can get down that way while I’m down there with Rose.”.
         
“Johnny, thanks for the offer.  I can’t promise anything, but  I
probably should get out of here for a while anyway.  One of the things
I’d really like to do, though, is go sheep hunting.  If one of you could
take me, I’d sure like to give it a try. ”
          
The two Indians looked at each other.  Johnny was left to speak first. 
         
“We both do guiding for some very rich white men.   I sometimes do that in
the fall when the railroad lays off its summer crews.  The money is much
better, and I know my way around this country better than most--except
for Cap.  He’s the one I’d recommend.  He’s spent more time out here
than most anyone except some of the elders, and I don’t know if any of
them are available anyway.   Have you hunted sheep before?”
          
“I grew up on a ranch in mountainous Wyoming. I’ve been in the Rockies many
times, but this is country I’ve never tried. I’d sure like to.  The
season is here already, so if either or both of you are available, I’ll
try to get a release out of here from Douglass.  He already suggested I
should try getting away for a while.”
          
“Cap and I will discuss that and get back to you before we leave.  Are you
laying off dad soon?”
         
“I’m not the one who does that, but if you’re willing to take him back to
Chitina with you, let’s just say, we’ll find a way to make it easy for
you.  Has he ever said anything to you about wanting to leave?”
          
“He’s been talking about Mom a lot lately.  If she’s in Chitina, I know she’d
take care of him.   If she isn’t, I’ll find her.  I just hope she isn’t
drinking too much.  That’s been a real problem for her ever since I was
a kid.   But I guess you’re asking if he wants to leave.  I think he’s
ready.  Cap and I will get him out of here.  I suppose I should be
indebted to you for helping us do that.”

          “No, not at all.  None of this is easy.  Emil has been here a long time. 
He’s a part of this place, and we’ll all miss him.   No one wants to see
him leave, especially if he doesn’t want to go, but we don’t want him to
die here either.   The superintendent will go down there and talk to
him.  See you guys later.”
          
The two left the back room of the office and walked around the payroll clerk’s
window to the front door.
          
“Cap, it looks like once we clean up around the power plant, our work here is
finished.  I yearn to visit Rose, but I’m torn at the same time.  I feel
like I’m being shoved out.
            
“We’ve been out here too long, Sla’cheen.  It’s time to go home
with your father, like Frank said.”
          
The two turned west, heading in the direction of the Kennicott Glacier. The sun
was just setting beyond the western ridge.  The cool shadows of the
early evening had overtaken the lowers parts of the narrow valley,
including all of Kennecott.  They crossed over a coupling of the empty
train which sat silent, blocking their way.  Then they turned south
toward the west barrack.
          
“Let’s walk out to the moraine.  I want to take a closer look at the glacier.”
          
The Indians took a narrow path north of the old sawmill and carpenter shop.
To their right was a wide, steep gully where the end of the National
Creek flume spewed a mad rush of water into a pond held in place by a
high crib dam.  Just beyond it, a series of icy, rock-covered mounds
rose to a height hundreds of feet above the track grade. They stopped at
the Laundromat, which stood at the precipice where another flume at the
top of the crib dam directed the water into a final deep fall to the
dark, hidden and even mysterious base of the glacier over a hundred feet
below.



carpenter shop

The sawmill-carpenter shop-paintshop, the company
store-warehouse, and the west barrack. In front of the company
store, on the edge of the drop-off, was the laundromat.  
Below it was the crib dam.  Photo was taken from a high
point on the Kennicott Glacier.   --UAF Archives
          The small building was closed for the day.  The men walked past the
structure to the steep edge of the moraine.  Here they had a good view
of most of the camp and its mountainous surroundings.
          
They stood in the path of the breezes which constantly flowed from the steep,
massive ice falls at the heads of Kennicott and Root glaciers.  Cap
lifted his eyes to view the outline of Fireweed Mountain.
          
“Just beyond the ridge is home.  It’s not that far.  So why does it seem like
home’s an entire world away?”
          
A sudden gust of wind off the glacier hit him, enveloping him in an
unexpectedly sharp coldness which brought tears to his face. Cap turned
away from the stinging iciness coming from the north, turning in the
direction of the craggy ridge to the northeast. There he could see the
mine sites thousands of feet above bathed in the rapidly diminishing
rays of the sun.  Castle Rock and Bonanza Peak stood out starkly, a
thousand feet above Bonanza and Jumbo mines. The sharp blue sky to the
east now featured a line of blackening clouds forming in a high wall
behind Bonanza Ridge. The ominous cloud formation emphasized the rugged
outline of the Chitistone formation which was still painted in sunlight.
His eyes returned to the north in the cold direction of the Root Glacier
Icef all, Donohoe Peak, and the Erie Mine.
          
It was there that Cap spotted four large ravens circling high overhead, riding
atop a heavy, invisible layer of cold glacial air. 
          
Engii, engii ! Sla’cheen, look!  The Saghanni ggaay are here.” 


Continue with









war paint




15 December 2010

Ch 26, Pt 3, conclusion: "Arrival at Kennecott


          “See the two-story white house with the wide porch? That’s the Stephen Birch
house.  Painted it myself in 1916.”

upper staff row


ABOVE: Superintendent's Residence & Stehpen Birch house in the abandoned town , 1946
Below: View of the Stephen Birch house shortly after its construction in 1916

Stephen Birch house 2
         
“Stephen Birch left here just before the power plant went up in smoke. 
He was here for three days. Our manager, Bert  Needing, uses the house,
but he’s rarely here.”
          
“We met Birch in McCarthy after you visited us.  He said he’d look you up.”
         
“That’s right.  He did.  He stopped by the shop. He said you’d be
working at the Green Butte, but he never said anything about you coming
up here.”
          
“That must have been Frank’s doing, then.”
         
“Frank is your friend, Johnny, whether you realize it or not.  He was very
concerned about you getting here.  Very nice kid, that young engineer.”
          
“Think he’ll be at the office?”
         
“Probably.  He’s usually upstairs in the map room, though  I sometimes
see him over at the construction job.”
          
“Rumor is that the mines are on their last legs.  Hard to believe, isn’t it?”
         
“What?  Your kidding !  This busy place on it’s last legs?” 
          
“Truth is, boys, as you’ve probably been told, so am I.  This work is beginning
to become too much for me. I’ll be forced to quit soon.  No place to go
to except Chitina.  I’ve arranged to buy a cabin there so I can return
in a few months.   You two will soon be on your own if you stay on
here.”
          
Like almost every building on the property, the office was a barn-red with
white trim. The front face was unusual because it was of
log-construction.
          
Inside the office was a  payroll office counter with a teller window running to
the ceiling.  A young man at the desk greeted the two Natives and handed
them the papers they needed to fill out.  While Cap and Johnny were
doing this, Frank walked down the stairs from the map room on the second
level.   It had already been a year since Johnny first met the  engineer
at Chitina.
         
“So ! The long-awaited Indians finally arrive !  Great to see you again,
Johnny. This must be Michael.”      
          
“Just call me Cap, like everyone else, ” Cap said extending his hand.
          
“Did you have a good time in McCarthy?”
         
“You’re the third person to ask that question today.”
          
“We could have used you earlier, but your timing is still good. That was our
big trainload today.  We’ll probably be unloading it half the night.
          
“How were things at Green Butte? I’m going over there to evaluate the copper
sometime this season.”
         
“Unless you see something we didn’t, it’s not worth the bother.  We
worked and worked at it, but we sure didn’t bag much copper.  Nice
place, though.  Much more primitive than here, but friendly and
comfortable. Even Cap seemed to like it.”
         
“It was a good place.  The men left us alone. Good cook.  Mountains,
rock-glacier, clean room. I like my room clean.” Cap responded.
          
“We’ll have you a clean room here, too.  Excellent food.  It really is. The
super prides himself in maintaining high standards for the men.  He had
an excellent head chef.”
         
“Super?”
         
“Superintendent Bill Douglass.  Great man. He tries to keep everyone
happy to be out here.”
          
“What about the chef? Never heard of a chef out here.”
          
“Well, actually he’s just a cook, but he could hold his own in any mining camp
in the western United States.  Japanese, too. All the cooks here are
Japanese. So are the waiters.  It’s the super’s policy.  He likes to
keep minorities working together, if he gets the right ones.”
          
“Is that why he took Cap?”
         
“Probably.  I convinced him that doing so was consistent with his
policy.  Then I pointed out your work records.  That settled it.”
         
“That’s thoughtful of him considering you’re mining our hunting lands.”
          “Cap !”
          
“Well, Johnny it seems awfully arrogant that it takes the company this long to
consider hiring even two of us when they got this place for nothing.”
         
“I can’t speak to that, Cap. I have to be careful what I say around here.”
         
“That’s fine, mister Kennecott engineer.  I just wanted you to know that
we’re not here to take crumbs from the table.  It’s still our place and
always will be. We appreciate the work, but were not cigar-store
Indians.  We’re real.  We’re tired of being overlooked in our own land.”
         
“Cigar-store Indians?”
          
“Cap means we’re not tokens.  We’re people.  My brother get’s a little upset
about the white superiority attitudes, but we all do. He’s the one who
always speaks out, though.  Get’s us into fights once in awhile.”
         
“You want to be careful about that around here.  Douglass won’t like it.”
          
Johnny decided to change the subject.  Better to stay on the good side of his
only sponsor.
         
“This place is huge compared to Green Butte.”
          
“Yes, we send more ore down our trams in a week than Green Butte processes all
season.”
          
“It shows.  This place is unbelievable.”
         
“It’s great, isn’t it?  You two will be working on my project.  Actually, it’s
headed by chief engineer, Mr. Richelsen, but I’m on the team.  We’re in
quite a hurry to build the permanent power plant so we can resume normal
operations before fall turns into winter.”
          
“Where will you be placing us, Frank?”
          
“Your quarters? Since you’re on the carpenter crew, you’ll be at the west
barracks, just upstairs from Emil. He’s been here many years and has
proved to be an exceptional employee.  He’s well respected.  He told us
that both of you are top-notch workers.
         
“Now we’ve handed you guys your chance to prove it.   You’ll be on the job
tomorrow.  Maybe earlier, if the yard-crew foreman needs more bodies to
unload the train.  One final thing.  No fighting.  And, no alcohol or
women for pleasure are allowed here.  That’s what McCarthy’s for.  Do
your fighting, drinking and pleasuring down there, if you can ever get
the time off.
          
“Get a good rest, and eat well.  The food is always good and sometimes even
great.  We buy only the best products.  As I said, our Japanese cooks
come highly recommended.  But don’t let that scare you.   Our food is as
American as can be.  We eat ranch-style here, just as they do over there
at Green Butte.
          
“Emil, you out there?”
          
“Just out here waiting, Mr. Buckner.”
          
Frank walked outside.  Emil was sitting on the bench next to the sidewalk.
          
“Emil, we have the paperwork and Bittner will hand our two new workers a room
assignment in the top floor of the west barrack.  You can show them
around.  Henry Jackson may need them later to help unload the train.”
         
Frank turned and disappeared up the narrow stairwell.  The two young men
finished the paperwork.
          
“You guys don’t need any help filling these out?”
          
“We both can read Mr. . .”
         
“Bittner.  I’m John Bittner.”
         
“Well I’m John Gadanski.  This is Cap Goodlataw.”
          
“I see it says Michael on the paper.”
         
“My white man name.  Call me Cap.”
          
“Okay, Cap. You guys have room number 205.”
         
“Number 205 is on the third floor? Shouldn’t it be three-something?”
         
“First floor is the mess hall.  Second and third are the rooms.  Number 205
faces this way.  You can see it from here.  John Bittner walked around
the desk and stepped outside.”
          
“See that middle window on the top?  That’s it. I know.  I take care of all
the housing arrangements here. Be sure to check in with the staff man in
the basement for bedding.”
          
“You live in one of the barracks?”
          
“No.  I brought up my wife, and I have two young ones living here.  My wife
has a cat, too. We’re in one of the bigger north cottages.  That’s
across from the power plant. You’re done here. Have a good day.”
          
Emil was still sitting on the bench out in the sunlight,  nearly out of
breath.  Johnny was alarmed, but said nothing.
          
“I’d show you the job site, but the train is in the way.  There’s no place to
cross without jumping the couplings. I don’t want to do that.  You can
do that later without me along. The far end of the train is in front of
the west barrack. We’ll walk in that direction first. 
          
“We have a room assignment. It’s 205.”
          
“Let me see.  Yes, that’s somewhere on the floor above me.  The attic level. 
It’s hot up there this time of year.”
         
“Bittner said we have a view of the mill. It’s one of those middle
windows.”
         
“You’ll probably have the room to yourself.  There’ve never been any
other Indians here. They like to put the same nationalities together. 
Seems to work better.”
          
Johnny stood facing south. 
         
“What’s that big building in front, Dad?”
         
“That’s the company store and warehouse.  We’ll need to get you set up
with some work clothes there, unless you have everything you need from
Green Butte. Lot’s of railroad activity around that warehouse. 
Sometimes makes it noisy at night.”
          
“It all looks good to me, Dad. The buildings are close together, but it has
a neat appearance.”
          
“Yes, there seems to be a general agreement on that. After I show you the
room, we’ll walk up the other side of the tracks to my paint shop. We’ll
stop at the store on the way.   That’s as good a place to start as any.”
          
The west barrack was on the track grade.  A wide set of stairs led to the
four feet to the vestibule.  The entry also served as a landing for the
wide stairs leading into the sleeping rooms and for the narrower stairs
heading down into the locker and lavatory area.
         
“Your room is two flights up, but the lavatory, showers, and locker room are
one story down.  Everything at Kennecott is like that.  Up and down, I
mean. The area is so steep and narrow, that the town was built on many
levels.  You’ll find yourself constantly climbing from one place to the
next. Wears a man out. That’s just how it is.”
         
The three men worked their way around the caboose and headed up the stairs.
          
“We built this one in 1917.  It contained many large windows spaced closely
to allow for as much natural lighting as possible.”
             
The over-all effect was that of a cheerful environment, enhanced by the
light  cream color of the wooden walls above the lower dark rich cherry
wood wainscoting which ran up the first four feet on all the levels
except the basement.   
          
“I smell food cooking.  Cap, when was the last time either of us ate?”
          
“Can’t remember, Sla’cheen.  Too much party. Liquor. Women.  Not much
food.”
          
“Wow, it’s big in here.  How many men, Dad?”
          
“We built it to seat 150.  It gets crowed in here.  No one’s here yet
because the day shift is still working, but sometimes the cooks have
extra food set out.”
         
“There’s more than one shift?”
          
“The mill, aerial tram and ammonia leach plant works ‘round the clock.  So
does the power plant.  Usually there’s a night yard crew, too.  We have
very large freight trains  unload around here.  Then we take the empty
train, especially the flats and gondolas and load ‘em up with bagged or
broken ore.  Lately that’s been done at night.  Seems like there’s just
not enough hours around here, busy at it is. Those night-shift men eat
here, so this place is almost always open.”
         
“Doesn’t hardly seem to me like this place is on it’s last legs to me,
Dad.”
         
“So it would appear, Son. I’ve never seen it as busy as it is right now.  At
least, not since they found the Big Stope up in the Jumbo in 1916. We
just keep going and going . . .”        
         
“What’s the Big Stope?”
          
“They started running the Jumbo aerial tram nine years ago.  The next season
they struck the biggest or richest piece of copper ore ever.  So I
heard.  I guess it was thousands of feet long and hundreds of feet
high.  That’s long since cleaned out.  Heard the Big Stope alone paid
off the railroad.”


south Kennecott


South Kennecott
         
Emil led his two boys to the top attic level.  Their assigned  room had two 
bunks.  None of the beds had linen or blankets. The two took the lower
beds,dropping their gear off on the thin mattresses. 
         
“Potlatch blankets?”
          
“We take them with us everywhere we go, Dad.  They’re real lifesavers.”
          
“You don’t need to use those. We’ll get you some bedding from the basement. 
You get two blankets each, a set of sheets and a pillow. They come in
once a week and change the sheets.”
         
“Sheets?  We have sheets here?”
          
“Not only that, but a maid service.  We also have showers and flush-toilets. 
Welcome to civilization, boys.”
          
Cap went over to push open the sliding window.
          
“We won’t need those blankets tonight. It’s too hot in here.”
          
He leaned outside. A cool breeze was coming off the glacier. Cap found
himself looking straight down on a cold storage plant.  It was
sandwiched in between the tall barrack and the company store. The men
could see over the roof of the company store to the  glacier on the left
and staff row to the right.
          
“It’s also noisy out here.  That sound of the cars being shuffled around is
loud.”
          
“No different than it was being on the line crew,” Johnny reminded Cap.
         
“The closeness of these buildings seems to make it noisier.  The sounds seem
to echo up here.” Cap replied.
         
“You’re lucky you got the cool side.  The south side is really hot. Let
me show you the shop. It’s next to the company store. We’ll stop there
first to pick you up some work clothes.  You’ll need gloves and heavy
coats for night work.”
          
“No money?  We pay with script.  You haven’t any yet, because you haven’t
worked here, but you can use some of mine. We’ve got to get you properly
set up. Do you have good gloves and heavy coats?”
          
After picking up what they needed, the men headed next door to the shop. The
two found a well-maintained shop with several men busy at their work.  A
number of them expressed surprise in their eyes upon seeing that the new
men were Native, but the carpenters were too engaged in their work to
show more than a precursory interest. 
         
“Follow me to the stairs.”
          
A steep, dark, and narrow stairwell led into a large, dimly lit area
below.
          
“Some of the paint is kept here. The rest is in another storage room.  I set
up my work tools on the bench and wall. There’s been precious little
painting this year.  I’ve been mostly doing carpentry work.  There’ve
been two jobs this year. One is the new barracks at Erie.  It’s still
unfinished.  Once the power plant burned down, we haven’t been back up
there.  I don’t think they’re even running that camp right now.
          
“The other job was the temporary shed for the generators.  Now we’re ready 
to build a very large, permanent structure.  There’ll be plenty of paint
work, inside and out.  Most of the building material we needed arrived
on the last train--your train.”
         
“If you stick around long enough, they’ll probably want you to help finish
that Erie barracks.  Right now there’s plenty to do right here.  That
new power plant’s going to be as large inside as a three-ring circus.”
          
“Never seen one of them, Dad.”
          
“Oh, sorry. I forgot.  It’ll be larger than this building or even the company
store.
          
“Let’s get back to the mess hall and see what we can do about feeding you
before Friendly Henry comes looking for you.”
         
“Friendly Henry?”
          
“Real nice guy, but demanding. He’s the yard crew boss.  No doubt he’ll be
looking for you once supper is over.  That’s a big train to unload out
there.  I’m supervising the unloading of some of the wood.  It has to be
placed in the right order.”
          
The three emerged from the lower level.
         
“The carpenter shop is our oldest building. It was the original sawmill and
it housed the first generator here.  It started as a simple but large
sawmill on skids, hauled up the river the hard way in 1906.  They landed
it in Valdez and brought it over Marshall Pass and down the Tasnuna
River.  What a job.  Had to have it, though.The original sawmill still
sits in the basement level.  We use it for producing timbers.”
         
“That was before you even worked on the railroad, wasn’t it?”
          
“Yes. I was still at Dan Creek trying to get rich.  Your mother left me that
year. Can’t say I blame her. Didn’t then. Don’t now.
          
“The sawmill is always the first structure to go up in any Alaskan wilderness
camp, if you don’t count the mess tent.   This building doesn’t have as
many windows as the newer ones.  It’s very dark inside, even on the main
level.”
             
Cap and Johnny were relieved  to be out of the lower level, which smelled of
paint fumes and was entirely too dark to suit them.
          
The Japanese waiters were on hand to serve dinner to the men on a lunch
line  as the workers  began to filter in.  Emil, Johnny and Cap were
among the first.  They found generous portions of baked chicken, rice,
rolls , string beans and an assortment of desserts at the serving
line.   Some of the men coming in looked at the Indians with surprise,
and others with curiosity.  No one appeared to be hostile.
          
“It’s obvious that we’re the first of our kind here,” Cap quietly told Johnny.
          
“I can see that this will take some adjusting, Cap.   I just hope we can go
about our jobs in peace.”
          
“Don’t worry too much about that, ”  Emil told the two. “Many of these men are
immigrants, like me. Most aren’t even citizens.  Some of them are taking
citizenship classes in the school.   They’ve never seen anyone who looks
like you, but they’re all working men. The troublemakers are quickly
kicked out of camp anyway.     If anyone starts any trouble, make sure
it’s obvious that it’s them and not you.  Don’t you start anything here,
and things should be fine.”
          
“We got along  fine with the others at Green Butte, and almost as well at
McCarthy, if you ignore a bar fight or two.”
          
“Or more,” Cap added.
         
“Boys, I didn’t work in all these rough places in this valley acting like a
complete gentleman.  I was entirely too hot headed when I was your age,
so I know how that goes.   But this is different because you have a
friend who leaned over backwards to get you here. You don’t want to let
Frank down. Besides, you’re hopelessly outnumbered here. 
          
“Most of these men don’t understand you and never will.  Many don’t care.
Others may be hostile toward you.  So do what you have to, but don’t
call attention to yourselves.  I’ll back you up where I can, of course.
Even in my weakened state the men here don’t mess with me.  I still
carry my old reputation of being a nasty fighter who doesn’t know when
to give up, just like you two.
          
“Speak of the devil, there’s Henry coming this way.”
          
“Guys, I’ve heard about you already.  I’m Henry Jackson, one of the yard
bosses.   You’ll be the first Indians I’ve ever had the pleasure to work
with.  I look forward to it.  Glad to meet you both.”
          
The three shook hands and Henry continued.
          
“The men here are good workers and hold their own.  We quickly weed out the
others.  We have no time for nonsense.
         
“You’ll be on my crew for a few hours after dinner.  We have thirty-five
loaded flat cars plus six more box cars full of goods on the tracks
waiting our attention.  We need to have the whole works off the train so
the night crew can load up the empty cars with ore. Every available man
will be out there, including you two.  The materials site is just north
of the new power plant area.  Emil, will you show them to the site?  See
you guys at seven.”
           
Henry excused himself and headed for the serving line.
          
“You know that guy, Dad?”
          
“Henry has been here for two seasons.  He seems pleasant enough. He always
carries his own weight and then some.  He doesn’t care what anyone looks
like or where they come from as long as they work hard.  Henry can
outwork just about any man and  he expects the same effort from his
crew.  But he seems to know how to motivate people. That’s how he got
that foreman job.  The yard crew work is tough, but after your mucking
and railroad line work, this should be nothing.”
          
“It would have been nice to have had a chance to rest on our first day in,
Emil.”
          
“Well, Cap, you and Johnny can work off your hang-overs just fine tonight.
          
“I’m done here.  Need to catch a nap. I’ll look for you a bit before seven. 
Be either in your room or down here.  Got to get some rest now.  Too
tired and out of breath.”
          
“Dad’s not in good shape.  I’m glad I’m here now, but I think I should have
been here sooner.  He forgot to show us the linen room. I’ll have to ask
Henry.”
          
Henry was eating by himself. 
         
“Henry.  How do we get our sheets and blankets.”
         
“Mmph.  Excuse me. You caught me chewing chicken.  Have a seat.”
          
He pointed to the empty space in front of him.
          
“I’ll be just a few minutes.  Then I’ll bring you down there myself.  Hang
on.”
          
A few minutes later the three men were standing in a dark hallway downstairs.
Henry knocked on the door at the end of the hall.  An older Japanese man
opened.  Henry said a few words.  The Japanese nodded, then entered the
hallway.
          
“He’ll pull what you need out of one of the rooms.  While he’s doing that, let
me show you the locker room.  That’s where we keep our outer work
clothes.” 
          
It wasn’t long before the two had returned to their room.
          
“I think I’ll stick with my potlatch blanket.  These blankets aren’t that
good.”
          
“Have to agree, Cap.  Ours are much better and heavier.  Not that we need that
this time of year.”
          
“It gets cold enough at night. Don’t forget that, Sla’cheen.
           
“McCarthy is a place I could live without, but I liked Green Butte.  I
like working where I can see everything from above.  It’s so high up
there.  This place is only a ridge away, but it has its own  spirit. 
It’s an old spirit, but seems to be friendly.”
          
“Never thought I’d hear you say you like a white man place, Cap.  Strange. Now
that I think of it, I don’t remember ever hearing any old Indian stories
about this valley.  It seems we were everywhere else in the country but
here.” 



Eng #74

Engine #74 at Kennecott.      
--Jim McGavok
         
Sla’cheen, it’s like this place was meant to be what it is now.  I don’t understand
it.  But this place is different from anything else around it. But there
is also something else out there which is even older and maybe not so
friendly.  I think I heard it once. It sounded like a distant, hollow
train whistle.  Very ghostly.  Strange.”
          
The real train whistle blew.  Johnny felt like a little kid as he got up
from the bunkbed to look out the dormer window.  He watched the two
passenger cars being pushed to the front of the train.  The engine was
now facing south.
          
“That sound?”
          
“That sound, but hollow and spirit-like.  It might have come from one of these
trains, but it seemed more like a ghostly mock-whistle than the real
thing.  An imitator.”
         
“The engine’s facing the other way, Cap. Where’d they turn that thing
around?”
          
“Must have gone back to McCarthy to use the turntable.  What a long round-trip
just to turn it around.”
          
Just then Emil knocked and entered the room.  He led them outside, heading
north toward the power plant.   The unloading process had already begun
in front of the temporary plant.
          
“Time to join Henry out there.  You’ve a lot of work ahead of you.”
          
They followed the line of freight cars, which stretched beyond the ore
loading bin at the base of the mill to the very end of the track.  The
temperature had started to cool.  The breeze coming from the north that
followed along the top of the glacier had picked up.  The sun was
shining brightly on upper parts of craggy Bonanza Ridge as it prepared
to set for the evening.
         
“Castle Rock,” Emil said.
          
“Sure looks like the ruins of one.  It looks rugged up there.”
          
“Very rugged, very steep, Cap.  That’s sheep country, but the mines are there
as well.  Jumbo’s at the base of that rock.  See the flat spot?  That’s
a rock glacier. The camp’s built on it.  We had to cable the buildings
into place so they don’t move too far.     “We’re here. This is the job
site.  Henry’s over there.  I’m going to supervise the unloading of one
of the flat cars.  Henry will be your boss here. See you guys at
breakfast tomorrow.”
          
Henry was large, tall, youthful, and pleasant appearing.  He seemed to have a
perpetual smile on his face.  He was in his mid-thirties, but appeared
to be ten years younger.  Most the newcomers found they liked working
for Henry, even though the work was usually tough and demanding.

          

“There you are, Johnny and Cap.  You Chitina Indians will be
working with me.  on the same flatcars.  We’ve got the corrugated iron
to unload.  Let’s get on with it and show the rest of the men how to
work.

    &n
     You
remembered both our names, and called us by name.  That’s a good start.
I think I’ll like working with you.

         
“And, if I forgot to say so earlier, welcome to your first job in the greatest
place in the territory to work.”

         
We’ll know soon enough.  Let’s see how the rest of you treat us.  You
let us in the door.  Let’s see what happens next.
         



Abandoned #3 on tundra
Remains of the abandoned
Alaska Anthracite Railroad train on the tundra,  including
CRNW engine #3, near the ghost town site of Katalla   
--Cordova Museum

         Continue with
Chapter 27, "Boxing Match & Layoff"

Ch 26, Pt 2: "Arrival at Kennecott


“Whatever happened to all those old saddle tanks?  We haven’t seen any
of them in years.” 

Engines #3 & #20
Dinkey engine #3 along side CRNW
consolidation engine #20.    --UAF Archives

BELOW: detail shot of the "dinkey" saddletank engine shown in
the above photo.
engine #3

Engine #3 abandoned

CRNW Engine #3 on the abandoned Alaska Anthracite Coal line near
Katalla, where it was left in place in 1922.  
--Cordova Museum

          “The
dinkies? Most of those original construction-era saddle tanks were sold
off and shipped out.   Of the two still in the country, No. 4 is kept at
the Cordova roundhouse. No. 3 was sold to the Alaska Anthracite Railroad
near Katalla.   That operation failed in 1922 and engine no. 3 now sits
abandoned out in the tundra near the Bering River.”

          Now,
102 stood contentedly puffing steam, ready on a siding to the north to
attach  itself to the rear of this large consist once the train was
fully positioned to begin its final push up the hill.  The engineer sent
out a loud series of blasts.

          “Time
for you guys to board.” 

          Mike
extended his hand to the two men.

          “It’s
been great meeting you.  I learned something new.  Good luck at
Kennecott.” 

          The
long consist was still on level ground, but as the two engines began
working the train north, the lead engine entered the first steep
incline, and the train began the slow run for the remaining four and a
half miles.

          The
passengers had a good view of the deserted town of Blackburn, a small
grouping of log structures including one large, abandoned, two-story log
hotel.  In the background, the rock covered glacier rose well above the
abandoned structures.  The train climbed another 600 feet. Those last
four miles represented a greater rise in elevation than in the first 131
miles from Cordova to Chitina.   This lofty view allowed a brief but
magnificent panoramic glimpse of Kennicott  Glacier from above.   As the
track approached Kennecott, however, the elevation of the glacier began
to exceed that of the railbed.  By the time the train reached Kennecott,
the glacier towered over the train.

approaching Kennecott
Approaching Kennecott,
Kennicott Glacier on the right --UAF Archives

          The
train passed a quarantine area used to isolate passengers during the
Spanish Flu epidemic.  That practice was finally abandoned by the early
1920s.   Just beyond, the dairy barn marked the beginning of Kennecott. 
Just beyond, the rails passed the five-plex apartments and a number of
cottages--all built along a steep hillside across from the glacier.

          There
were more cottages along the glacial moraine on the right, centering on
the recreation hall.  Beyond those cottages was a series of freight
yards for coal, wood and oil drums.  At the end of the large storage
area was the three-story west barrack, which towered over a small
schoolhouse and an adjacent ball field.   The barrack was large, but it
was nearly overwhelmed by the daunting  presence of the glacier  which
appeared to be a massive series of rounded, rock-covered hills
interspersed with walls of ice.


The mounds
look like  huge, sleeping ancient monsters waiting for the right moment
to return to life and overtake everything the white man has built here.



          “What
do you think, Cap?  You’re looking awfully hard at something.”

          “I was
just noticing how even these large buildings seem so small compared to
the mountain glacier.  It just sits there like a silent menace.”

          “Wild,
isn’t it?”

         
“Interesting place.  I think I like it.  Awfully busy up here,
Sla’cheen
.”



Kennecott depot

Arrival at Kennecott: the West Barrack is on the left. In front
of it is the school house. The mill is on the right. Beyond is
the tall ice-mounds that mark the eastern edge of the Kennicott
Glacier as it was in the 1920s.   --UAF Archives 

BELOW: The abandoned
Kennecott depot in 1955

Kennecott depot 2

          The
train stopped at a small telegraph station on the south side of National
Creek.  All the passengers were checked there and directed to their
destinations.  Johnny followed Cap as they stepped off the train onto
the ground. There was no large platform like the ones at Chitina and
McCarthy.

          “What
an overpowering presence !”

          Johnny
was remarking about the appearance of the fourteen-story mill building
which towered above all else.  The bright midday summer sun accentuated
the peeling and fading paint on the upper reaches of the tall wooden
structure.  It was clearly in need of a new paint job.  Below the were a
series of stately buildings following a long walkway up a hill toward
what appeared to be a log dam about a quarter-mile away.

          At the
diminutive telegraph station, a very gaunt, older man stood looking up
and smiling. 

         
“Father, it’s only been about a month, but it seems like it’s been
longer.”

 Johnny was
shocked at how thin and old-looking his dad had become.  It was
certainly good to see a friendly, familiar face. The two embraced.  Emil
had known Cap since the boys were both very young. The two also hugged
each other. This was unusual for the stand-offish Cap.

          “Boys,
it is so good to see you both.  I’m so pleased you’ll both be working
here. You’re working under me, you know.  Your sponsor, Frank Buckner,
arranged everything.  He even let me know you’d be coming on this
train.”

          “How
could he possibly know which train we would be coming on?”

          “The
stationmaster at the junction telegraphed this station when you two
checked in.  The station notified the office. Frank came down the hill
to let me know.  So here I am.  And here you are.  You two both look
great.  I guess there’s a lot to be said for hard work.  Looks like
Green Butte did well for you.  I am so thrilled to see you both.”

          “Dad,
it just worked out well. We both decided we wanted to be here. Green
Butte turned out to be the key.  We made a little money and learned
something about hard-rock mining .”

         
“McCarthy take all your money?”

          “Dad,
how’d you know?”

Kennecott power plant fire
The 1924 Kennecott power plant fire  
--W.A. Richelsen

          “I
figured it out.  Frank kept track of the telegrams every day.  When you
said you were coming and you failed to show, he became alarmed and told
me.  I thought about it for awhile.  Then I realized what I would’ve
done when I was your age.”

          “It
sure is good to see you again, Dad.  It’s really been too long.”

          “I
took time to visit you at McCarthy last month, remember?”

          “The
speeder visit? That was a quick trip.”

         
“Couldn’t have done it without the railroad.  Anyway, you’ll be helping
the carpenters build the new powerhouse. When it’s up, you’ll be on my
paint crew.  That’s the big job. We just got done last year painting the
remodeled plant.”

          “That
must have been frustrating.”        

          It
was.  The engineers made the mistake of allowing a composite roof.   It
ignited a few months after we finished building it.  At least, that’s
what they think happened.  Just to be on the safe side, we won’t be
repeating that expensive mistake.       There’s large load of corrugated
steel roofing on board this train, I believe. It surely won’t burn.”

          “Dad,
you’re involved in the big rebuilding job?” 

           “I’m
not just the head painter, but I’m the assistance carpenter foreman.  We
have a very nice young man in charge named Christopher Jensen.  He’s
quite the carpenter.   Chris requested you for this crew.  We need to go
to the office first, then I’ll get you checked into a room.”

          The
tracks headed in a nearly straight line to the north, passing through a
two-story covered loading dock at the base of the mill.  As the three of
them finished the conversation, Sal Reed began pulling the consist
through the loading dock.

          The
noise of the huge engine masked the roar of the creek rushing

through a flume
of heavy wood timbers.  The flume directed the roaring water under the
trestle toward a wood crib dam.  The water spilled over the dam,
disappearing under Kennicott Glacier about 300 feet away from the
railroad trestle.

          The
three men stepped off track grade, following a road  which paralleled
the  trestle on the upstream side.  The path crossed the creek at a
wagon bridge, then continued toward a wooden stairway which climbed
toward the office near the lower end of the 150-foot tall mill. 

   

Herben aerial Kennecott

 George Herben photo of abandoned Kennecott in the early 1960s


Continue