07 February 2011

Chapter 34: "Strelna Work Crew Sets Up," Pt 2




work train 1

"In the early
days a white man had been given charge of each Native crew. The white bosses
never acknowledged the Indians by name, preferring to assign numbers
instead. They would count one through twelve. If there were twelve men, no
matter which twelve they were, the crew was considered complete. Sometimes
the Indians would substitute one of the men for another without telling the
white crew boss, but the twelve men whose names were on the payroll were the
ones who would get paid. The Indians would replace one of their own if he
was sick, or had to be with h is family, or even if he was too drunk to be
present. That way the hired Indian would still be paid and would not lose
his job. The substitute who replaced the regular would receive other
compensation from the Indians themselves. All Natives protected each other
in a system they developed from the very earliest of the railroad days."
 
A work train
consist with a pile driver heads toward Chitina from Tiekel. --UAF, Julie
Sweeney Collection, 97-139-322


pile driver
A CRNW Railway
piledriver    --Laurie Nyman


"Tanas, how far to Strelna ?"

"About nine miles, Charles. You boys come with me. We have to grab some
wheelbarrows and help the others."


"Tanas, I spotted a large moose out there in the brush. Let’s hunt it
down for lunch. Let the others run the wheelbarrows. We’d all rather have
moose than most anything else."


"Charles, now you’re talking. Cap! Johnny! Go with Charles. He says
there’s a moose out there. See if you can bring it in. Yes, dead, you
half-white jackass! Butcher it up and give it to the cook. Maybe we can have it
in time for a late dinner."


"Beats working the wheelbarrows and hefting 450 pounds of rails."

"The company’s going to pay for the food one way or the other. Get out
there and bring it in!"


The three skeel’eh needed no further encouragement. Each grabbed a
thirty-thirty rifle and headed north through the heavy brush. It wasn’t long
before Tanas heard three shots.




One bullet each. Guess they weren’t taking any chances. Moose
meat!

The crew’ll be happy tonight. Good thing. I’d hate to have to
explain to the rest of ‘em why they’re working so hard while those
three bumpkins are beating the bushes.


Several hours later, the crew finished removing sixty feet of rail, and
hauling in the gravel fill. The skeel’eh were quick to skin and butcher
the large horned animal. In the meantime, the rest of the crew arrived on No.
22. In the rear of the consist was the familiar Baldwin pusher. Johnny and Cap
walked the long distance to the front of No. 100 to uncouple it from the second
consist. Having been freed for a second time, the old engine once again headed
down hil in reverse for its slow return trip to the maintenance shop at Chitina.

After the crew had dumped about a hundred yards of gravel on the low spot,
Tanas finally called the work to a halt.


"We’ve done it. That’s good enough. It’s time to put the track
back in place. Food break first. The cook says it’s chicken soup and beans for
lunch, but it’ll be fresh moose stew for dinner."



Indian hunter
Above: Indian hunter;  
Below: Hunting party / work train crew on the CRNW right-of-way 
--Laurie Nyman



Hunting Party


The cheers from the crew confirmed Tanas’s decision to send his three
nephews on the moose hunt. Few moose had been taken that winter. Many Chitina
families had to subsist on salmon, rice and beans the entire winter. Toward the
end of winter, even the salmon had run out.


After lunch, the men re-installed the three, twenty-foot sections of rail.
Foreman Jack Corey asked engineer Art Holt and conductor Matt Stevenson to hold
up the train at Kotsina siding overnight. The engineers agreed. It was getting
too dark to see the condition of the track. Matt telegraphed McCarthy and
Chitina, notifying them that the Chitina Local was closed from Strelna to
Kotsina at least until the next day.


"Charles, how’d you get so lucky? We’ve looked for moose all winter.
Couldn’t find anything since nen’testende."


"You mean freeze-up, Cap ? No moose at Tonsina ? There weren’t any
moose near Chitina, either. This must be the first. Sure has good taste. The
cook did a great job with it on such a short notice."


"I’d have joined the crew just to eat the carrots, I’m so
hungry."


"You mean you’re sick of beans with Pilot Bread, Cap ?"
"That’s it, Sla’cheen. Too many beans. That was all we had.
Sometimes I think this railroad is a good thing. It brought us real food."


"You must be getting soft, Cap. You don’t sound like your usual
self."


"Starvation around here, Sla’cheen."

"It’s a tough life, Cap."

Cap chewed a sinewy piece of moose meat, then grinned back at Johnny.
"Not tough at all, Sla’cheen. Just right !"


After their dinner, the skeel’eh walked west down the tracks,
carrying their Winchesters just in case.


"Maybe we’ll find some rabbit this way. It’s a good area."

"I suppose since I’m the youngest, you’ll expect me to skin
it."


"You brought your knife, didn’t you, skell’eh ?"

"I always have my knife on me, Johnny."

They headed to a point where the track starts to veer to the northwest. It
was the top of the long slope to the river base. The forested area opened up
there, allowing a magnificent view of the wide, braided Chitina River hundreds
of feet below.


"Look at the, Cap. The Tsedi Na’--the very center of our people’s
way of life."


It was still covered with ice, though an open channel had broken through.
"It won’t be long now, " Charles observed, pointing to the open
water, which was already starting to flow over the top of the ice.


"That’s called kataleni. The ts’itu’ and its tendelzaghi
are what you see."


Charles gave a puzzled look to Johnny.

"Open water and ice chunks on the river, Charles. Never mind Cap. He
confuses me, too. Cap tries to keep our Ahtna words alive, even though the
teachers beat him to stop it. They beat me too. I learned quick. I had to help
Cap because they kept throwing him out of school."


A strong wind blowing through the canyon worked its way up the high ridge to
the rail grade, sending cold snow dust blowing around the open area.


"Whew ! It’s too cold to stay out here in the open. Let’s head back
to the bunk car. Long day tomorrow."


The three returned with five snow-shoe hares they encountered on the way
back. The temperature on the hill that night dropped to zero. In the black
spruce-lined area where the two maintenance train consists sat at Kotsina
siding, the wind rustled the trees, but the trains themselves were sheltered
amidst the heavy growth. The engineers and firemen kept the boilers fired all
night. Unlike the newer 70-series, these two had been converted back to coal.
They required constant shoveling. Crew members alternated on duty with the
firemen all night long. The 1910-era engines hummed in quiet contentment all
night.


The light was sufficient at seven to begin moving the trains forward. The
cooks had breakfast ready by six so that everyone would be ready to continue the
slow run into Strelna. Maintenance Local No. 22 was now in the lead, since it
was on the main line all night. It would work its way on to Porphyry, once it
picked up its Strelna crew.


The rail followed a largely straight line past Strelna and Silver Lakes. Then
it hit a large curve. The sudden jerk as the rear train skidded to a halt
knocked Charles off his seat in the cupola. He fell down to the floor of the
caboose, hitting the wood hard.


"What was that?" Charles, are you all right?"

Johnny jumped down, followed by Cap. They pulled Charles off the floor. He
was stunned, but not hurt. Matt had already rushed out the front door of the
caboose. Johnny and Cap helped Charles out. Far ahead they could see the place
where engine no. 22 had derailed on the wide curve. It would be another long
day.


Matt returned for Cap.





Dwyers Inn


"Cap was among the
first to spot the smoke somewhere in the distance. He watched for the
flames through the trees.  It was not long before the raging fire
could be seen by everyone.  It was a large one. As the train hit the
straight stretch that passed by Strelna, the form of Dwyer's Inn came into
view, heavily involved in flames.  A small gathering of people was
trying to save the structure with a hose from the nearby water tower, but
the effort was clearly futile.   The crews from the three work
trains jumped out to help, but little more could be done.  The large
two-story log building would burn to the ground.  A historic piece of
Alaska was going up in flames.
Dwyer's Inn at
Strelna






Chapter 34: "Strelna Work Crew Sets Up," Pt 1



"You must never forget who you are, who your people are, or
where you came from. Even as you learn the new and strange ways of the
white man--and you must be a good student of him and his ways--you are
one of us and you will always be one of us." --Chief Nicolai
speaking to his grandsons at the Spirit Camp of Taral in 1910.




Chitina crossing work train


"It had been a long,
cold, miserable, and unproductive winter.  Everyone--Native and white
alike--had waited anxiously for the spring breakup so they could get back
to work.  Trapping had been at an all-time low, and no one had any
spare cash.  There would be no complaints about the existence of the
railroad this year.  It was the savior.  The CRNW would keep the
people of Chitina alive through another year.  It had long since
become a part of the Native way of life."
A work train waits by the
line shack near the crossing.  The spring breakup has already taken
out the trestle.  --Photo above courtesy of Jerrold Qua

--Photo below courtesy of Laurie Nyman

Chitina crossing crew
Below: the bridge at MP 132 awaits
repairs  --Laurie Nyman



Chitina crossing out

Another spring break-up was underway. After a long winter of minus fifty to
minus sixty degree temperatures, the increasing daylight had finally brought in
a warming trend. Night time temperatures had been minus twenty-five the week
before. By early March, the lowest temperatures were only minus ten. Afternoon
readings had been rising into the thirties since early February and had hit
forty degrees above by the end of the month, causing considerable glaciation
along the tracks and the beginnings of ice-breakups on the rivers.


The railroad had assembled two trains to work the eastern end, otherwise
known as the Chitina Local branch. Because the track walkers had already
detected problems with the rail bed near Strelna, the CRNW shut down the line
east of Chitina and dispatched the two maintenance consists north much earlier
than normal. The last load of ore had gone through Chitina March 2nd. There
would be no more runs until the problems with a sinking rail bed were corrected.
The bridge watcher at the Copper River crossing predicted that the ice would go
out early. The trestle crossing would go out with the ice. 


The two maintenance trains had to be over the bridge near Chitina before the 
trestle washed away. Freight consolidation engine no. 21 arrived from Cordova first. 
It was pulling a line of twenty, 1870s-era dump cars loaded with gravel, plus four
flatcars piled high with wooden ties and steel rail couplings and other
hardware, a box car full of tools, a kitchen car, two bunk cars, and a caboose.
Behind the first train was a second, which also carried a pile-driver rig.

The railroad scheduled Chitina Local No. 21 to operate out of the Strelna
gravel pit, while No. 22 would continue on to Porphyry to work on the far end of
the Chitina Local Branch. The pile-driver was for repairs on the Kennicott River
trestle. It was also the back-up rig for the east-side when the time came for
Copper River trestle to wash out.


Cordova Locals 20 and 23 would work the area from the Copper River delta near
Cordova up to Chitina. All four consists had been assembled for spring break-up
repairs, similarly equipped with the same number of Western Air dump cars, flat
cars and the rest. Number 20 would be temporarily stationed at Chitina to work
from Chitina south to Bremner. That train would also utilize a largely Native
crew, as would numbers 21 and 22.


It had been a long, cold, miserable, and unproductive winter.
Everyone--Native and white alike--had waited anxiously for the spring breakup so
they could get back to work. Trapping had been at an all-time low and no one had
any spare cash. There would be no complaints about the existence railroad this
year. It was the savior. The CRNW would keep the people of Chitina alive through
another year. The railroad had long since become a part of the Native way of
life.


Although everyone who could work was ready to board, the Native crew for No.
22 would be picked up at Strelna, where the several small families headed by old
man Eskilida still lived, about sixteen miles away from Chitina. The railroad
also kept another crew in reserve at Chitina for Cordova Local No. 20, which
would be arriving within a week after 21 and 22 departed the depot.

These men might be needed to take the rails and stringers off the bridge
after the two maintenance trains crossed if it appeared that the trestle might
go out early. The railroad always tried to salvage the top part of the bridge.

As they began their tenth season working railroad maintenance, Johnny and Cap
had seniority. They chose to ride the caboose with the conductor. This was the
favored place on the train. Conductor Matt Stevenson always had hot coffee
brewing there. Besides, it was the warmest spot, and its high, rear-end cupola,
had an excellent view of the rest of the train and everything to the rear.


The two hopped aboard along with elder uncle Tanas Nicolai. Tanas was most
senior because he was also full-time. He headed the Native crew for Local No. 21
and even 22 when the two consists worked together. Tanas spread his crew out
between the two trains, so each would have a small complement of workers until
they reached Strelna. Then Tanas would take charge of crew 21 and his cousin
Edward would take crew 22.


In the earlier days a white man had been given charge of each Native crew.
The white bosses never acknowledged the Indians by name, preferring to assign
numbers to each man instead. They would count one through twelve. If there were
twelve men--no matter which twelve they were--the crew was considered complete.
Sometimes the Indians would substitute one of the men for another without
telling the white crew boss, but the twelve men whose names were on the payroll
were the ones who would get paid. The Indians would replace one of their own if
he was sick or had to be with his family or even if he was too drunk to be
present. That way the Indian whose name was on the payroll would still be paid
and would not lose his job.


The substitute who replaced the regular would receive other compensation from
the Indians themselves. Every Native protected each other in a system they
developed from the very earliest of the railroad days.


The Indian crew members found numerous ways to make life difficult for the
white crew bosses. The white men would often quit in complete frustration.
Finally, the railroad superintendent relented and began employing Native bosses.

Tanas, Edward, and Andrew of Chitina were among the first. Once the Indians
took charge of their own people, the railroad management discovered that
maintenance ran remarkably well.


Tanas had worked on the line since the first train came into old Chittyna in
1910. He was in the first group to benefit when Nicolai made the deal with Birch
that obligated the railroad to hire entire crews of Natives for seasonal
maintenance.


Nicolai did not ask for year-around work for most of his people because he
knew it would not benefit them. Instead he asked Birch to consider hiring a few
for full-time work so there would always be some Natives on the railroad
year-around.


The railroad unintentionally gave men like Tanas, Tom, Edward, and Andrew a
special status which was highly respected by their own people. Each of them
lived comfortably, if only modestly. Tanas had a skill for keeping the peace
between the Natives and the whites which the railroad valued. But in reality, he
used his powers more like that of a shop steward, always trying to protect his
people against the sometimes strange and arbitrary ways of railroad management.

It was in the early morning of March 5th, 1925 that the first consist, No.
21, pulled out from its place on the main line in front of the locomotive repair
barn. The engine arrived only the day before. It had been kept running all night
because it was far too cold to let the boiler shut down.




Eng 100
"Behind the caboose,
an old Baldwin mogul was coupled on to act as the pusher.  Number 100
was stationed at Chitina that year because the 4-percent grade on the
other side of the crossing required an extra engine to assist a fully
loaded consist up the long Kotsina hill. 
Engine No. 100 on a siding
near the Chitina crosing.  --UAF, Fairbanks, E.B. Schrock, 84-80-60
Tanas’s group boarded the caboose as the whistle blasted its warning.
Matt pointed to the pot, looking first at Tanas.
"It’s ready for you guys. Be my guest."

Johnny had talked Tanas into letting his brother Charles along with him on
this run. Although Charles had no seniority, Tanas allowed him to ride in the
caboose because Charles was part of the family already on board. Charles, as the
junior member poured the cups. He handed the first one to Tanas. It went in
order of rank and age, except Charles had deliberately given the white man,
conductor Stevenson, the second cup rather than the first.


Matt and Tanas, chose to stay below, allowing the younger ones to watch the
tracks from the cupola. Behind the caboose, an old Baldwin mogul was coupled on
to act as the pusher. No. 100 was permanently stationed at Chitina because the
four-percent grade on the other side of the crossing required an extra engine to
help a fully-loaded consist up the hill.


The Baldwin was second in age only to the legendary No. 50. Old No. 50--a
Rogers 4-6-2, was Mike Heney’s original--the first CRNW locomotive. Heney was
the contractor who built the White Pass out of Skagway and who had been in
charge of constructing the CRNW railbed when he suddenly took ill and died. The
railroad considered the 1871-vintage wood-burning engine obsolete. Old No. 50
was too antiquated to sell, so the railroad kept it in the eleven-bay roundhouse
at Cordova, ready if it was ever needed for whatever duties were required. It
never was. The duties of Heney’s original engine ended with the driving of the
copper spike at Kennecott on March 29th, 1911. It sat in the darkness of the
roundhouse for twenty-seven years, a useless relic of the frontier days of old
Alaska.


Cap sat on the north side of the cupola. He had a good view looking straight
down the loose, sandy cliff which dropped steeply into the Kotsina River bed
over a hundred fifty feet below. This section of the railbed was subject to
heavy erosion. Still going uphill, the rails left the Kotsina basin, heading
southeast. The rails crossed the ridge which separated the Kotsina from the
Chitina River until the wide Chitina River canyon was finally in view. Then the
rails resumed an easterly course. It was only a few minutes into Kotsina. The
small whistle-stop consisted of a siding and a line shack. The line shack was
rarely used. It was one of twenty-four of similarly designed ten by twelve foot
frame buildings with hip-end roofs, dating back to 1914 when the railroad began
upgrading its many miles of line so it could operate in the winter.


The train pulled off the track onto the siding. Johnny and Charles helped the
Baldwin pusher uncouple. It backed out of the siding and took off in reverse,
all the way down the six miles of steep hill to Chitina.


"Look, Cap. There’s smoke coming from the line shack."

The entire Native crew assembled there.

"The foreman from Strelna is here. There’s already a problem with the
track sinking just ahead. We’ll have to get out the wheel barrows and pull up
some of the track for shoring up. The section foreman says its unsafe to run the
engine any farther until we repair it."


"Okay, Tanas. Guess we know where we’ll be tonight."

Matt returned to confirm Tanas’s evaluation.

"Cap, climb that pole and tap into the line so I can telegraph the
stations at McCarthy and Chitina.


"This looks like it, boys. Haven’t seen the problem yet, but foreman
Corey seems to think it’ll take several hours to repair the damage. He says
much of the rest of the line into Strelna is beginning to sink, so there may be
other delays. If we’re lucky enough to get through to Strelna, we have weeks
of work ahead of us. Everything seems to be sinking."


"It’s already started? Seems awfully early, especially as cold as it’s
been."


"There’s a spring and a pond up there that never froze. We thought we’d
taken care of the problem last year, and the year before that, and the year
before that."


"So this is it? We’re at Kotsina tonight?"

"Looks that way to me, Johnny, unless we’re lucky. Cap! You connected
yet? Climb on down here with that wire so I can tie in with my key!"


"The other load of gravel cars should be along shortly. We may need the
extra gravel in case the 240 yards we have on hand is not enough. Can’t get to
the Strelna gravel pit from this side. It’s too far away."



work train 3

"It was in the early
morning of March 5th, 1925, that the first consist, No. 21, pulled out
from its place on the main line in front of the locomotive repair
barn.  The engine had arrived from Cordova only the day before.
It had been kept running all night because it was far too cold to let the
boiler shut down."
A winter work train
consist works its way through the Abercrombie area.  --Candy
Waugaman Collection




Chapter 33: "Billiard Hall Conversation," Pt 2

  
         “You know, Cap, I’ve had the same sense about the place since
we first went to work up at Erie.  The people will be gone soon.  Maybe
not the camp, but the people.  Even grandfather said it would not last. 
He told me I’d live to see it all end and that even the railroad would
quit running one day.”

        “If that’s true, and I am sure deep within myself that it really
is, what do you think will happen to McCarthy?”

        “McCarthy will still be there, even if the mine quits.  Look at
all the placer claims out there.  McCarthy does a lot of outfitting,
just like Chitina does.”

        “Maybe, but even if McCarthy survives Kennecott, it won’t be the
same.  Think about it.  What do you see on the railroad except Kennecott
ore and Kennecott freight.  There sure aren’t many passengers.  Never
were. When I came back from McCarthy last time, I was alone in  the
coach.  Just me and the dog and that attendant.  That was it. 

        “This is just a mining railroad.  I know it looks like something
more than that, but without the mine, I don’t think there could be a
railroad.  Nicolai was right.  We’ll both live to see the end of it. 
And that means the end of McCarthy.   You don’t think Rose would want to
stay in that town once the supplies stop coming, do you?”

          “So Cap, what are you saying?  Are you saying that Rose will
leave and go where ? Where will she go ?”


Main Street
Forty-below in
Chitina  --Anchorage Museum of History & Art
        “Where do you think ?  She’s a big-town girl who’s making money
at McCarthy because there’s so much business now.  That’s it.  When the
business moves, she will too.  She’ll probably leave Alaska.   Do you
think she’ll really want you by then anyway?  You know what she is.  She
loves money.  Not you.  Not any man.”

        Johnny almost struck Cap for that, but backed off.  Cap was
ready for him, but  Johnny’s anger gave way to depression.  He leaned 
back in the chair, feeling spent.   He had to face it and admit to
himself that Cap might be  right.   

        “Sorry about that, Cap.  I know you’ve been polite about it and
avoided the subject. The sad part is you may be right.   She probably
proved your point when she  refused to come back here with me .”

        “Look, Johnny, I told you what I believe.  I don’t want to dwell
on it.  I’d rather try to beat you at this game of billiards than fight
you.   What good would the fighting do?   We’ve backed each other up
since school days--since we were both six or seven years old.  That’s a
long time.  We’re sla’cheen who are fortunate enough to claim the
same grandfather.   If we’re going to fight, let’s save it for someone
who truly is our enemy.”

        They started a new game.  Cap beat Johnny easily, probably
because Johnny’s mind was somewhere else.   He was silent for some time
before finally speaking back up.

        “I got a letter from Frank Buckner.  He wants us back next
year.”

        “Really?  Do you you want to go back?  If you really want to go,
I’ll be there with you.  No money around here, anyway.”


        “Still?   After all that has happened?”

        “Still.  It doesn’t matter what has happened.  We’re
sla’cheen
.”

        “Frank wrote that the company plans to repaint the mill next
year.  They’re also going to build a larger hospital. He wants us back
because of our experience on that power plant job.  No problem getting
on, he wrote. The superintendent has okayed us for rehire to do the
paint job. It’s a big one, similar to the power plant painting job.  
Harder, though, because the building has old paint which has to be
scraped off.”



early Kennecott
Kennecott
circa 1912      
--Cordova Museum
        Cap considered it,  while he watched Johnny rack up a new game. 
He opened the stove door and put in yet another stick of wood.

        “We sure have to work hard around here to stay warm.”

        “Yes, it hurts me to watch you sit in that captain’s chair and
place a stick of dried,  cut firewood into a hot-burning stove.  It must
kill you, Cap.”

        “You know what I mean.  It takes a big load of wood to keep any
of these places going.  That’s all day out in the woods.  Sometimes I
think we had it easy at Kennecott.”

        “So it’s Kennecott ?”

        “It’s either that or the railroad maintenance work again if we
want enough cash for the year.  Trapping isn’t going to do it. I just
want to be able to get out of work by fall time so I can hunt and do the
guiding business again.   We completely missed it last year. At the time
I never gave it much thought because we were so busy.  But I don’t want
to miss out on the hunting.   Then there’s still next winter’s
trapping.”

        “So, it’s settled then. We’re a team, once again.”

        “We’re a team, Sla’cheen.”

        Kay-yew-nee jumped for the door.  His ears were straight up and
his tail started wagging.  Johnny’s mother Helen came in the door. 
Charles followed. The wagon was waiting outside with her companion Fred
from Copper Center holding the lines.   

        “You two have been down here long enough.  It’s cold out here
and I came to pick you up for dinner.  We’ve been working on the moose
stew all day, and you need to come home.  That’s that.”

        “I cleaned out the back of the wagon so we can ride below
cover.”

        “That’s good of you, Charles.  You’re a great skell-eh.”

        “It’s really cold out there, Johnny.  I’m riding in back with
both of you.  Mom keeps warm with Fred up front.  She actually enjoys
it.”

        “Fred’s my blanket,” Helen replied.

        “Let’s head on up the hill, Cap.  I’m ready. You’re staying
until after the cold spell, aren’t you ?”

        “I’m ready for some good Native food, and I was planning on
staying with you anyway.   Soon as this weather breaks, I’ve got to pick
up my supplies and get back to Tonsina.”

        “Smitty ! We’re leaving ! You back there ?”

        Rita stepped through the door.

        “Smitty’s sleeping.  You’re the only ones left.  I’m closing now
anyway.”

        “Got a bottle ?”

        “Got money ?”

        “Will these do ?”

        Johnny threw several silver dollars onto the counter.  Rita’s
eyes widened.  She was resigned to credit in the winter time.  The coins
were a welcomed sight.

        “You want two bottles ?”

        “You got it, Rita.  Say good night to Smitty.  Be sure to
tighten up the stove.  Goodnight.”

        “Did you see that old red-haired witch’s look when I threw her
those coins, Cap ?  Guess that’s what it takes to make women happy.”

        The four of them walked out to the waiting wagon.  A huge horse
was anxious to get moving.  It was frigid out there.  The smoke from the
stacks throughout town was rising to about sixty feet and then leveling
off, creating a canopy of gray where the temperature was warmer.   This
was a phenomena of extremely cold weather.

        Fred had the use of the horse thanks to his connections with Orr
Stage Lines.  He had driven the wagon up the hill only to find Helen
wanting him to bring her back down to pick up her two boys.  She
considered Cap the same as one of her own sons and she fussed over him
just as she did over Johnny.  
          
Fred, a good natured Tl’aticae’e Native who had known Helen since the old days, 
had happily obliged.  He would be staying with Helen tonight, putting up the
horse in a makeshift barn until morning when it had to be returned to
the stage line company.   Actually, he would be taking the wagon into
Copper Center tomorrow himself.   The wagon passed the Commercial Hotel
and began the pull up the long hill into the Indian village of Chittyna
where a large pot of moose stew and a very warm and cheerful, if
somewhat smoky, large open room awaited the five of them.

        “If Emil was still alive, he’d have been here with me.  I would
have taken care of him.  He would not have needed to buy a cabin for
himself.”

        “I know, Mom.  I wish I could have brought him back.”

        “You did.”   Johnny looked up from under the tarp to his mother
who was huddled close to Fred.  He pulled his heavy coat around himself
tighter.  It was biting cold out there.   He looked forward to the warm
fire up the hill, the moose stew and the home-brewed tea. 

        “Skeel-eh, look !  It’s the Yaw-koss out to greet
us.”  

        Cap was pointing toward the Northern Lights, which were dancing
wildly across the sky in all their brilliant hues of red, white and
green over Chittyna Village. 

        “It’s like the old days at Taral.”

        “Yes, it is skeel-eh Charles.  You were there with us to
hear the story Shee-ya told us that night.  The Great Creator is
smiling upon us tonight as we ride home to the house we built for our
shee-ya
. Sla’cheen, we have made the right decision.
Kennecott waits for us once again.
 
        “I hope it waits for me, too, Soon-ga.”

        “For you, too, Charles.”

        Johnny listened to the conversation between Cap and Charles
completely astonished.

        “You think we can somehow get them to hire Charles ?”

        “Charles will be there.  I’m sure of it, Sla’cheen.  The
time is right.”

winter hauling
Winter hauling
over the frozen rivers in the lower Copper River valley 
-Laurie Nyman photo

Chapter 33: "Billiard Hall Conversation," Pt 1


Chitina billiards hall
Saloon, card room
& billiards hall at Chitina
     
     
“Your move, Johnny.” 
        
Cap set his stick down and moved over to one of the large,
south-facing windows.   The thermometer showed no mercury.
        
“It’s been showing colder than forty-below for over a week now. 
Probably closer to sixty-below.  We should be up on the hill in the
cabin where it’s warmer.”
        
“But boring.  Need to get out of there once in a while.”
        
It was dark outside, but the clear skies allowed a full  moon to
bathe the small cluster of frontier style buildings in an eerie glow. 
It was still and silent. At the railroad yard was a fully loaded ore
train waiting for the locomotive to be pulled out of the shop so the
load could be run to the Alaska Steamship wharf just beyond Cordova. 
The lights in the depot building were off but the locomotive repair barn
lights were running as usual.  Mikado No. 73 was pulled inside for some
type of repair before continuing south.  The Siberian lifted himself up
to look out the window as well, but seeing nothing of interest, padded
over to the billiards table.

        The air near the glass pane was uncomfortably cold.  The edges
of the glass had iced and frosted toward the center.  Frost had formed
around the door, making it difficult to close.  Cap was keeping the fire
in the pot-belly stove going.  He had brought in a large load of wood
for Smitty when the weather was much warmer.  He opened the door and
shoved another eighteen-inch log into the hole, then slammed the iron
door shut. The pile was diminishing rapidly.

        Johnny made his shot, took a shot of whiskey and positioned
himself for a follow-up.  

        “When are you returning to your trap line, Cap?”

        “I’m not going anywhere until this cold spell lifts.  I’m
staying with you up there in the warm cabin we built for Shee-ya. 
Too cold and dangerous to be out there away from a fire.  When it warms
up I’ll pick up some supplies on Dad’s credit at the Cash Store.  Credit
at the Cash Store.  Sounds strange, doesn’t it?”


Main Street Fire
The Fire which
took out the Overland Hotel in 1917: Across the street (left)
was the Chitina Cash Store.  --Photo courtesy of Bruce
Haldeman 
        “It’s just how we have to live, Cap.  Ever since the white man
brought his first trading post he brought us credit.  What can you do
when you can only get cash a few months out of a year?”

        “Live off the land ?”

        “That’s funny, Cap.  But you know how it really is around here. 
Right. Live off the land.  Good one.”

        “Dad still does.”

        “But you bring him goods from the Cash Store on credit.”

        “Oh, yes.  You got me there, Sla’cheen.”

        “He’s not out on his trap line up the Tonsina, is he?”

        “Dad?  He has more sense than that.  He seems to know when the
weather is about to turn cold.  He always returns home until it breaks. 
Said he spent too much time out in it when he was a kid.

        “How is your trap-line going, Johnny?   I haven’t taken as many
pelts as last year, and that was less than the year before.”

        “It’s been the same up the Kotsina .  I’m beginning to think
we’ve trapped out this whole  area.  We may have to look to moving or
extending the trap-lines.”

        “Oh, I don’t know, Johnny.  It has always been up and down.  Dad
is getting too old to change, and he relies on me to keep it alive.  We
seem to be in the right area.  The lynx and fox travel through, all
right.  So do the wolves. There just aren’t as many of them right now.”

        “Do you think it’s improved any down by Taral since we moved
away?”

        “Maybe, but that’s spirit country over there.  Dad doesn’t want
to go back. Says it’s engii. Too many kay-yee-geh there. 
Maybe even Chaw-glith-tah-he himself.”

        “The devil?  He really believes that ?”

        “They made bad medicine over there.  Remember the Saghanni
Ggaay
.  They only appeared after the curse of Nicolai.  The ravens
were always there with Nicolai when he lived alone.  It’s best not to
disturb what is there.  We should never go back.  Dad says some of us
may return there as spirits.  He says Nicolai is over there.  Nicolai
will never rest.”

        “I guess I should have asked if you really believe that,
Cap.”

       
“You don’t ? You will live to believe it, Sla’cheen.”

Main Street
4th of July on Main Street, Chitina with the Fairbanks Saloon on the right.  --Cordova Museum
       
Johnny missed his shot and sat down on the bench by the window. 
He turned around and looked out toward the cold bright moon.

        “Speaking of kay-yee-geh, there’s Spirit Rock over there,
with Spirit Mountain behind it, looking just as ghostly as anything I
can imagine.  This is strange country we live in, Cap.  
      
        “But back to the business.  Maybe it’s just that I’m not as
interested in  trapping as I used to be.  Brother Charlie is still there
to help, so we keep it alive, but I was really let down when Rose told
me she did not want to leave McCarthy to come here.  She says this place
is too primitive.”

        “Maybe that should tell you something, Johnny.”

        “I notice you tend to call me Johnny whenever I mention Rose,
but otherwise I’m Sla’cheen. I suppose that should tell me
something.”

        “Rose would take you away from us forever.  I don’t want that. 
If you want to be with her, you will have to give up Chitina and the
rest of us, too.  Then what happens when the mine runs out?  Do you
really think there will be a McCarthy after that?  You know what will
happen.  What always happens?  The white men take their precious metals
and they run.  All those gold rush towns from twenty-five years ago that
were all over the territory--how many would you say are still real
towns, Johnny?  There aren’t many left now.  McCarthy won’t last
either.  It will become history just like most of those others.”

        “But Cap,  McCarthy is not a gold rush town.  Yes, it serves May
Creek and Chititu and Dan Creek, Chisana and that area, but it’s there
because of Kennecott.  And Kennecott is there to stay.  Look at that ore
train out on the tracks.  It’s loaded fully, just as it has been for
years.  There will be one tomorrow and the day after that and the day
after that.”

        “Yes, Johnny, it makes you wonder about that deal grandfather
made.  But it can’t keep going on like this.  I know everything up there
looks like it will be there forever, but I can sense that it’s nearing
its end. The people there just don’t know it yet.”

        Johnny stared at Cap for awhile, contemplating Cap’s words. He
sat down on the bench near the window. Then he jumped back up.  It was
too cold close to the window.  He moved over to the stove and shoved in
another stick of wood.  He pulled up a wooden captain’s chair and sat
down right in front of the fire.
         

Chapter 32: "Return to Chitina," Pt 2



Chitina view 1
Chitina in the
1920s    --Rita Hatch

 “Hello there, Cap. I’m so glad to see how well you took care of my Johnny.  I
want to go with him, but I can’t leave for a few days.  Can you stay
here ?”

Oh, no.  Just what I feared.  Great Creator, save me from this one.  I
want to go home.
Not stay
here.  Not this place.

“How about if I take the dog and continue on with the coffin back to
Chitina?  That way you two can come down when you’re ready instead of
having me around to get in your way.  Come back when you’re ready.”
         
“Cap, are you sure?”
         
“Johnny, I want to go home. Maybe see Shirley. Stay with Dad. Go
trapping.”
          
“Okay, Cap.  Take the dog.  Mom will be waiting at the depot.  Let her know
I’ll be home soon.”
          
“We’ve been together a long time, Cap.  This last run was the most thrilling
ever.  But we knew this day would be coming.  I know you’ve been 
anxious to get back to your own life at Tonsina. You know I’ve been
wanting to get together with Rose.” 
          
Johnny extended his hand.  Cap reached up, still sitting on the platform next
to the dog, and shook Johnny’s hand weakly and without enthusiasm.

        
 So this is it.  This is how
our team finally ends. Just like that.

          The train gave a loud whistle blast. Cap watched as the two turned, arm in
arm, walking down the road toward downtown McCarthy until they finally
disappeared in the snow storm.  

McCarthy trestle out

West end of the
trestle crossing the Kennicott River undergoing repairs after a
"Pothole" washout.   --AK & Polar Regions archives


pothole
A "Pothole"
washout on the Kennicott River, McCarthy in background (looking
east).    --UAF & Polar Regions archives
          
Cap led the dog aboard and slumped deep down into the seat.  No one had boarded
at McCarthy. Only the attendant was on board. He was  in back stoking up
the coal stove.  The winds had sucked the warm air right out of the
large coach. Cap pulled his woolen blanket around himself. It was good.
          
Senior engineer Sal Reed had been checking the setting on the snow blade. It
was ready if it was needed.  The blade had to be set for any drifting
which might occur along the way.  Now Sal walked back and pulled himself
up into the high cab where the fireman had the pressure built up and
ready. 
          
Sal  Reed pulled the reverse lever, then set off the loud whistle.  The train
began moving toward the long trestle crossing at the Kennicott River. 
It gained  speed up as it made a run for the hill ahead.  Pusher No. 102
was coupled in place at the rear to help the load over the hill.  It
would take the combined effort of both to make it to Porphyry, which was
the highest point of the railbed west of McCarthy.  The line crew had
run ahead of the train on a motorized rail car , checking Kennicott
River crossing for any potential problems.  It had turned around on the
far side of the long trestle at the wye, where the it waited for the
train to pass, leaving the large engine and its consist on its own.
          
It all was looking routine as the engine began slowing down on the grade at the
southern slope of Fireweed Mountain,  leaving the Kennicott River valley
behind.  The train would stop at the summit and gravel pit named
Porphyry to disengage the pusher. The mogul pusher engine would then
back down the hill to Shushanna Junction where it was permanently
stationed.
          
Back in the Pullman combine just behind the engine’s tender,  Cap had fallen
into a deep sleep.   The dog was at his feet watching the attendant only
a few seats back at the coal stove.  Outside the moon was shining
through the clouds as the storm began moving out of the valley.
          
Cap began dreaming of walking the rails somewhere in the Chitina Valley on a
very hot and sunny day.  He was following the sun in the direction of
Nicolai’s camp, his shirt hanging off his belt as sweat trickled off his
bare back. It was just he and Kay-yew-nee.  But he felt safe. In the
distance, down a very long, straight section of track, he could see a
bright reflection of a spirit figure.

Maybe it was just the glint coming off the brass bell of a large train heading his way. 
Overhead those four large black ravens were flying in a wide circle.
          
It was a few hours later when Cap finally awoke.  Somehow he had slept through
the stop at Porphyry, Chokosna station and Dwyer’s Inn at Strelna.  But
he sensed that the train was pulling up the last grade into Chitina.  
He looked down.  There was Kay-yew-nee--the Ghost Spirit.
          
The train pulled up at the depot ever so slowly.  There was John’s mother
Helen Nicolai Gadanski waiting outside on the platform.  The snow storm
had vanished.  It was clear and cold as the stars shined brightly toward
the cold earth.
          
“Helen, good to see you.”
          
“Cap, son, good to see you too.”
          
Cap was not really her son.  For many years, Helen had called him that anyway.
          
“Is Johnny still with that woman at McCarthy?”
          
“Yes, Helen. Johnny is still in McCarthy with Rose Katrina.  He wanted you to
know he would be here in a day or so.”
          
“That Rose. I just don’t know about her.  Johnny should have stayed on this
train with you and with his father.”
          
“I guess you’re here for the coffin.”
         
“Someone has to wait for him.  I’m still his wife, you know.  My old man
Fred will bring a wagon to pick up the coffin. Everyone else is still at
dinner.  At least you’re here, yaaze.”
          
Helen hugged Cap.
          
“Let’s wait in the warm station until the wagon arrives.”
          
“That’s fine, son. We want you to join us for a late dinner of moose stew.  Have
you eaten?”
          
“No, and I haven’t had any moose stew since Green Butte.  I’ll be happy to
come up for dinner.”
          
“And to stay with us.”
          
“I suppose I should wait around town a few days for Johnny to return. Then
I need to go to Tonsina to see my father.”
          
“I’ll wait here to help with the coffin, then I think I’ll head down to the
billiards hall.  What I really need is a drink. Thanks for the offer for
moose stew and a place to stay.  I’ll be up later.”
          
Helen nodded.  She understood.  At least she thought she did. Cap would be
drinking tonight.  Just then the one-horse wagon came into view. There
were three men aboard.
          
“Fred brought plenty of help, Cap.  My other son Charles and uncle Tanas  have
come.”
          
Cap greeted the three men.
          
Charles wanted to know more about his brother.
          
“I miss him.  When will he be back?”
         
“Soon, Charles.  I’m going over to the hall now.”



horse wagon

Orr Stage Lines
wagon on east side of the Hotel Chitina  --Rita Hatch
          
“Help us with this coffin, would you, Cap?”
          
Cap assisted them in lifting the surprisingly light coffin onto the back of
the wagon. 
          
“Mom, I’m going with Cap.  I’ll bring him back when he’s done.”
         
“Charles, take care of your brother.  Bring him home.”
          
Cap looked at Charles with some annoyance.
          
“You don’t want to come with me.”
          
“I have to make sure you’re all right, Cap.  Johnny would expect it.  You always
took care of my brother. I will watch you and be your friend.  You look
like you need one.”
 
As the wagon pulled out, Helen yelled back.
          
“We’ll have moose stew up there and a place for you to stay for as long as you
want whenever you’re ready.  Charles will help you back if you get
drunk.”
          
He heard an old woman’s cackle as the wagon moved toward the Indian village
hill road.
          
“That’s good. I’ll be there,” he shouted back.
           
Cap walked the short distance toward the no-name billiards parlor and card
room.  He knew he could find some good whiskey there.  He was looking
forward to that now. 

         
I think I need that drink.  Maybe two or three.
Then I’ll head next
door and look for some women.

A loose woman. That’s what I want. Like the one Johnny has.

          
The dog knew where Cap was heading and rushed to the billiards hall, pawing at
the door until old Smitty opened it.  Behind him the younger man slipped
in the door and sat down on the bench.
          
“I may send you home early, Charles. But right now, I want to shoot some
billiards.  Care for a game? Have Smitty get me some hootch, would you?”
          
The moon moved into place, illuminating the small town. The stars were
sparkling with unusual intensity. Soon the Northern Lights would begin
their magical work.  It was already crispy as winter moved in with its
heavy, frigid air to claim its place in this small, remote, railroad
town of the 1920s, somewhere deep within the Territory of Alaska.
         


downtown Chitina
Birds-eye view of
Chitina in the 1920s focusing on Main Street.  --Fred
Machetanz, UAF AK & Polar Regions