08 February 2011

Chapter 35: "Returning Crew Meets Tom," Pt 2


Siberian
          “Soon we’ll be
returning up the line to Kennecott.  We can’t have Kay-yew-nee try to follow us
all the way up there.  I’ll have to get Violet or her new friend Abbey Webley
take care of him while we’re gone.”

          “Isn’t Abbey a dog musher?”
          
“That’s what
she calls herself, Charles.  She’s taken several of Violet’s dogs and trained
them for sledding.  Seems to be good at it, too. Strange white woman. 
Good-looking, though.
          
“Charles. I need you to do something for me.”
          
Charles’s eyes
widened as he looked at Cap, realizing that when Cap talked like this it usually
meant work.  Cap had been like another older brother--a bin’ ga.  Cap was
often the one to give work assignments to Charles when Johnny was not around.
Not that Charles minded too much.  He admired Cap almost to the point of 
hero-worship, much to the embarrassment of Cap.  

          “Nothing
difficult.  I need you to take Kay-yew-nee over to Violet’s yard and keep him
tied up for a few days.  At least a week.  If your sister won’t take him, I’m
sure Abbey Webley will. 

          “I don’t want the dog to try to follow us all the way to Kennecott.”
          
Charles felt
relieved.  This was an easy assignment.  He smiled at the thought.  Charles
smiled readily. He had a very pleasant and unassuming personality which was
almost too eager to please.  Like only a few others Cap had encountered, Charles
did not seem to believe in evil people.  He was confused by racism and bigotry. 
It just didn’t make any sense to him.

          “Sure, Cap. 
Leave it to me.  What ar
e you doing up there this time?  Will you be working in
the mines like before?”
         
“No, Charlie,
we’ll be repainting the mill.  Maybe do some work on the nearby hospital as
well.  That’s it.  Then we’re coming home for hunting season.”
          
“You mean you
and Johnny are painting that?  I’ve seen the pictures.  It’s the tallest
building I know of in the valley.  I’d sure like to be there to see it.”
         
“That’s why
they want us.  We proved ourselves last year painting the tall, new power plant
there, and we worked on top of Erie, which isn’t that tall, but it seems it
since it’s on the edge of a thousand feet of drop-off.  Not too many men will
work at those heights.  It doesn’t bother either skeel’eh or me. Besides,
now we’re experienced.”
         
“Wow.  Like I said, I wish I could see it.”
          
“I heard you.
Let me think about it.  You never know what may come up.
Your mother needs you on
the fishwheel, you know.”

          “I know, but
I’d leave the fishwheel at Chitina anytime to go to Kennecott to help you 
soon’ga
.  I can carry my own load well.  You know that.  Find me a way. 
I’ll be there.  I want to be a part of it.  I want to be there while it’s still
here.  I know someday it won’t be.”
          
“No one else thinks that, Charlie.”
          
“It will be gone.  Railroad and all.  You’re the one who said it. I believe what you say,
Cap.
          
Cap smiled at Charles, then turned his attention back to the scenery.  He thought about
Charle’s words. 
          

If the other
young Indians heard Charles talk like that, they’d make fun of him--or worse.
They think it’s honorable to voice a hatred for everything white. They can’t see
past the hatred.
 
          I love the independent spirit of Charlie.  Innocent.  Yes,
 
that’s it.  No hatred in him.  Just a sense of wonder, like a child.

The train passed over a small trestle as it turned away from its course which ran along
the north ridge of the Chitina River valley.  It was approaching the overlook
above the Kotsina River valley.  Once it reached the Kotsina, it would begin the
final steep descent.   

The train slowed as it headed into the last turn before the steep hill.  From the cupola
Cap could see the rebuilt trestle in the far distance.   It looked just like the
one before it, which was just like the one before it, leaving no indication that
the bridge had washed out only weeks before.


fish wheel
Views of a Native
fishwheel near Chitina: Above: Laurie Nyman photo / Below: UAF Archives



fish wheel 2


The engine crawled down the hill, finally reaching the steep east-end approach of the
trestle, then slowing even more as it crossed over the madly rushing and
swirling heavily silted river less than fifteen feet below.   The narrow trestle
shuddered. So did Cap. Many had died here, including that Irish crew in 1917 and
the fireman aboard  No. 74 when it crashed through the bridge the next year.  
Others had died on this spot before that and more would undoubtedly follow. 
This was the most notorious spot on the entire route. The river which raged
below was unforgiving to all who underestimated her power.

          
A very thrilled and light-headed  Johnny stepped down from the cab of No. 21 once it pulled up
to the station and then backed up to the repair barn.  Cap and Charles uncoupled
the caboose so the engine could back into the barn for the required repairs.  
The Siberian mutt sat on a large timber, absorbed by the activity of three of
his favorite humans. 
          
Cap pulled one of the tall doors open.  It was a large, empty space, except that the large,
black iron hulk which was Old No. 100 quietly sat in the darkness of the next
bay. 
          
Their work over, the three men walked toward  Chittyna Village, which lay beyond the far
end of the turn-around at Town Lake.  Cap would stay at the cottage this
evening, then head for Lower Tonsina to stay with his father for a few days.
          
As the three began to pass the depot, they heard the unmistakable roar of the 1917 Indian
motorcycle owned by Tom Weller, a bearded, rough-featured, heavily built man who
always wore a cap and usually had a cigar in his mouth.  Tom owned the Lower
Tonsina Lodge.   The Indian motorcycle circled around and screeched to a halt
just in front of the three Indians.  Tom stepped off the bike and pulled up his
goggles above his ever-present cap.  The man was known as a hard drinking
womanizer, even though he had a very enticing, if somewhat strange, female
companion named Alice to help him run his lodge and keep him company.  
          
Tom frequently came into Chitina to gamble at the no-name billiards hall.  It mattered little
whether it was pool or cards or anything else, Tom loved to gamble.   He usually
won.  Some believed he walked with a small devil on his shoulder to give him
gambling advice.  His luck was phenomenal.  He was also known to be a sore
loser.  Sometimes his opponents would throw in the towel and let him win rather
than face the consequences, especially if Tom had been drinking whiskey that
day.
          
“Hey you guys, glad to see you back from Strelna. Any of you up to a game at the old parlor?”
          
The three of them looked at each other. They had told themselves they’d avoid going to the
no-name billiards hall when they returned.  So much for resolutions.
          
“Sounds good to me,” Johnny said.  “We haven’t got paid yet, but we’re good for it.”
          
“That’s good enough for me,” Tom replied.”Let’s go!”
          
Cap and Charles nodded in agreement, then headed for the no-name billiards parlor.  The dog
rushed ahead and pushed at the door, alerting old Smitty that Johnny was
around. 
         
“How about a buck a game?  Any takers?” Tom asked.  
          
“That’s awfully high-stakes, Tom, but you’re on,” Johnny responded, throwing a silver dollar
down from out of his pocket. 
          
“Hey Smitty, got anything good back there?” Tom shouted.  Smitty responded with a bottle of
whiskey and a box of cigars. 
          
“Good man, Smitty.  You guys want to split on this?  You can’t expect me to do all the
buying, you know.”
          
“I’ll cover for the other three. I have some change.  My brothers can just owe me for it,” 
Johnny replied, pulling out several more silver dollars.
          
“Works for me.  Hey, you guys, I’ve got a big party planned at the lodge this weekend.  You
know, one of those spring-into-summer kind of things.  I’ve got my homemade wine
I made just for the occasion.  It’s based on rose hips Alice picked last fall. 
Wine’s my thing.  Also got beer and whiskey.   Alice will be cooking up the fish
and I’m roasting a large pig.  I’ve even found a band.  Well, sort of a band. 
Anyway, big doings.  You guys need to come on down.  Tell everyone.”  
          
The four of them traded shots at billiards for several hours until all were beginning to
miss easy shots as the effects of the whiskey began to catch up.  Charlie was
not used to so much alcohol. He passed out on the bench early.  Tom was a hard
drinker who rarely showed any effects.  Johnny and Cap were beginning to feel
like they were being set up. They finally decided it was time to quit.
          
“Look, I got to get back to the old homestead anyway.  Alice awaits, you know.  Need a ride
Cap?  Hop on, I’ll have you there in no time.  I just came out here for a break
and some spices I better pick up before Alice kills me.”
          
“I was going to stay in town overnight, but since you’ve offered, let’s go.”
          
The Indian motorcycle roared off with Cap on the seat behind Tom. The bike ripped down the
narrow Edgerton cut-off trail toward Tonsina, not quite twenty miles away,
spewing a large cloud of fine dust.   Cap was beginning to wonder if he would
live to see his father, but Tom was a skilled motorcycle rider from way back,
and he was very familiar with the trail.  They ran through a deep cut passing
three narrow lakes before the valley opened up, with a view of the Copper River
to the right.
          
Tom pointed to a cabin with a barn four miles out of Chitina.
          
“That’s my business partner who lives there.  We churn up a little hootch once in a while. 
He just moved up from Valdez.  Bob Reed.  Great guy.  I’ll take you by some
time.  Not today.  Got to get back to Alice.  I’m feeling the need!  Whoa!”
          
The narrow trail followed a series of winding hills until it reached a popular picnic spot
known as Liberty Falls.   Then the trail entered one last steep and very
winding  descent to the bottom of the hill where log bridge led to Lower Tonsina
Lodge. Cap felt dizzy when he finally stepped off the motorcycle in front of his
father’s cabin just east of the bridge.  Enough of that.


 What a machine. What a name. Indian. I like that.  Wouldn’t
mind having one of those.  Maybe I’ll talk Tom into letting me drive it one day.

          
“Thanks, Tom.  Maybe I’ll stop by before heading back to Kennecott.”
          
“Hey, you do that Cap.  I’ll give you credit ‘til you get paid.  No problem.
You ought to try Alice’s cooking.  Out of this world.  Got to blast.  She’s hot.  I’m hot.  I’m outta
here.”
           
Tom disappeared in a thick cloud of dust.
          
The hills hovered high above Tonsina, completely dominating the small area with their
stony massiveness.   Up a distant hill just beyond the rustic log lodge on  the
far side of the river was the family grave yard.   Cap looked in that
direction.   Somewhere up there his mother was probably watching him.  He turned
around and walked up the pathway toward the cabin.  
                  
Roadhouse at Lower Tonsina
--Cordova
Museum

Tom's Indian at his lodge at Lower Tonsina


Toms Indian

Chapter 35: "Returning Crew Meets Tom," Pt 1



work train 4
Work Train near Strelna  
--Van Cleve photo
     
 It was time to return home.  Some track work remained, but section foreman 
Jack Corey deemed all of the major repairs completed between Long Lake and the 
Copper River crossing. The three skeel-eh volunteered to be included in the first
lay-off.  They would jump a ride on the maintenance engine, consolidation no.21,
when it returned to Chitina for routine oiling in the pit.   Charles planned to
help on his mother’s fishwheel, as he did every summer, while Cap and Johnny
needed to prepare themselves for their return to Kennecott.
          
Number 21 was
to head off to Chitina towing only its caboose.   Johnny talked engineer Albert
Dalton into letting him ride up front in the locomotive cab.  The engine was an
American Locomotives Rhode Island 85 ton consolidation--a 2-8-0. That was the
designation for an engine with eight drive wheels and two leading ones,  with no
trailing wheels  under the cab and firebox. 
          
There were four
of them in the system--20 through 23, built in 1907 with sequential serial
numbers as part of an order of equipment originally destined for China.  These
were the most powerful engines on the roster until 1915 when the first Mikados
arrived.  Because of their special wheel arrangement, they were best suited to 
head the ore trains.  The problem was that it normally required two of these
engines hooked up in tandem--a process called “double-heading”--to pull a line
of thirty-five loaded ore cars. 


Eng 23


CRNW Engine #23: Above:
Gloria Day photo / Below: Percy Conrad photo


Eng 23-1
          It soon became
obvious that it would be far more efficient to simply buy newer, more powerful
engines.  By 1915 the new Mikado had proven to be a good candidate for this type
of operation.   The Mikado was the name for an engine with the 2-8-2 wheel
arrangement.  The first engines with this wheel arrangement were built by
Baldwin Locomotive Works for a Japanese railroad company.  The ALCO-Brooks model
weighed 95 tons and was equipped with super heaters which made more efficient
use of the steam it generated.
           
The first three of these arrived in 1915 and 1916 just in time for an anticipated jump in
copper production.   In that year ore production took a leap  from 81,104 tons
requiring 90 trains of thirty cars each for the year to 177,916 tons of ore that
would require 198 trains pulling the same load.  The vastly increased mine
output  meant the train consists would now require thirty-five loaded flat cars
instead of thirty, just to keep up with the demand.  Two more of the Mikados
were added in 1917.  With the arrival of the Mikados, the CRNW Railway began
running two distinct trains on the same track.
          
The Mainline,
or Cordova Local, ran from the Alaska Steamship wharf to Chitina. The Chitina
Local was the temporary Bonanza branch line to Kennecott.
The company built the
mining branch line to less strict engineering standards than the mainline, using
lighter rail and tighter curves with heavier grades, but overtime the
distinction between the branch line and the mainline was lost. The use of the
concurrent trains doubled the capacity of the line.
          
The trains
would meet in Chitina, switching name designations and continuing on down the
line.  The arrangement began in 1916 and continued for the remaining twenty-two
years of railroad operation.   It enabled daily service throughout the system as
long as conditions permitted.
          
In 1936 the
boiler on no. 71 blew up while the engine was at the service bay in Chitina,
killing the fireman and seriously burning the engineer. The engine was hauled
back to Cordova and permanently sidelined there, leaving the other four to carry
the load.  The fifth Mikado was no longer essential due to the diminished
requirements of mine production.
          
As the four
consolidations were no longer needed for mainline service, they were commonly to
be found running the work trains, including the rotary snow plow consists.  
Since all the moguls were now used as switch engines and pushers stationed at
Cordova, Chitina and Shushanna Junction, usually the CRNW used one of the
consolidations for small passenger train consists.


Eng 70


CRNW
engine #70, a 2-8-2 Mikado, photographed in Washington in 1940, sold to
the Midland Terminal Railway as #62 in 1940, then to the Nor-Oeste de
Mexicano as #200 in 1948 where it was ultimately scrapped. Built in
1915, one of five similar CRNW engines of the 70-series.   
--Charles E. Winters
          The 20-series Rhode Islands were impressive engines with drive wheels that 
were fifty-six inches tall. The cab was high above the tracks, with a commanding view.  
Above the long boiler were two large sand domes as well as the huge steam dome.  They
were stately and majestic machines, indeed.
          
Finally Johnny
had the ride he had dreamed of since he was ten. he had the engineer’s view from
the cab of one of the great Rhode Island engines.  He assisted the fireman, but
was more interested in just watching the a view he could only imagine until now,
as the locomotive worked its way through the lower Chitina River valley.  The
mountains to the south and west, like much of the region were dramatic, the
effect enhanced by the relative closeness. 
          
It  was an
experience beyond anything he could imagine.  The effect of seeing all this
mountain scenery from the control deck of the eighty-five ton engine rumbling
with its obviously powerful pistons over the widely-spaced  steel rails while
the wind whipped by his face as the engine advanced rapidly down the gentle
slope past Strelna Lake left Johnny beside himself with not a care in the
world. 
          
Just behind in
the caboose,  Cap was sharing the cupola with Charles. Matt had prepared some of
his famous coffee which both young men were sipping.
          
“Your older
brother’s having the time of his life up there, Charles. He’ll be up the clouds
long after we arrive in Chitina.”
          
“It’s what he’s
always dreamed, Cap.  He never could stop talking about the iron horse machines
when he was a kid.”
         
“He still
hasn’t stopped.  He says less, but never stops admiring them. They seem to take
him out there somewhere no one can see.”
          
 Down below
Kay-yew-nee was studying the conductor. The boys had left the dog behind at
Chitina, but the Siberian mutt had worked his way up the tracks, finding Johnny
and Cap two days later.   He was not about to be left out.  Cap was considering
this problem of having the dog follow them all the way up the line to Kennecott,
where he would no doubt be shot.




work train caboose


CRNW
caboose & work crew somewhere south of Chitina   --Cordova
Museum

07 February 2011

Chapter 34: "Strelna Work Crew Sets Up," Pt 3




Strelna group

"You take our land
and hunt it until nothing remains, and then expect us to be grateful that
you bring us white man food that you sell at a high price.  You take
our language and give us yours, and tell us we must be like you, then you
give us only work the white man won't take, and tell us we can't go here
and we can't go there.  You expect us to want to save places like
this after all that disrespect?"  --
Cap Goodlataw in an
exchange with conductor Matt Stevenson at Strelna on the matter of saving
the burning Dwyer's Inn
A group of mostly Natives
at Strelna in 1915  --UAF, B. Bragaw Collection, 85-108-16

"I know, climb the pole and splice in so you can have a
connection."


"You’ve got it, Cap. We’ll need every man we’ve got to pull that
engine back into line. It went off right where we lost our first Pullman years
ago. They made the curve too steep. This time the ground must have sunk just
enough to let the leading wheels drop over the edge. We’re stuck good until we
pull that thing back into place."


"Can we get it back on track, Matt?"

"I think so, but I’m sending for the engine at McCarthy and more crew
men just in case. It can pick up the others at Strelna."

"How long ?"

"Oh, probably all day."

Engine No. 102 pulled in with the regular McCarthy crew and the Strelna
Native crew four hours later. It pulled a flat car with extra rails and a frog
and switch, plus three box cars carrying most of the remaining railroad
workforce on the line between Chitina and McCarthy. It took three more hours to
pull engine no. 22 back into place.


"Obviously, the rest of the line must be good, so we’ll follow No. 102
into Strelna. It can turn around at the gravel pit wye there and return
home."


"That’s good, Matt. So we’re finally on the way to Strelna?"
"Just don’t forget that the next several weeks could be like this,
Johnny. If the line keeps sinking, which it probably will, we may be facing even
more derailments."


"Great life, isn’t it," Charles responded.

"How’s your head, kid?"

"I’ll survive. We’re all hard-heads around here, anyway."

Cap was among the first to spot the smoke somewhere in the distance. He
watched for the flames through the trees. It was not long before the top of the
raging fire could be seen. It was a large one. As the train hit the straight
stretch that passed by Strelna , the form of Dwyer’s Inn came into view,
heavily involved in flames. There was a small gathering of people trying to save
the structure with a hose from the nearby water tower, but the effort was
clearly futile. The crews from the three work trains jumped out to help, but
there was little to be done. The large two-story log building would burn to the
ground. A historic piece of old Alaska was going up in flames.


"If we had only been here last night, maybe we could have saved it,
Tanas."


"Maybe Mr. Stevenson. Or maybe it was meant to happen this way. Once
that train derailed, we took all the extra men up the line with us, including
the ones they could have used to fight this fire. Now it’s too late."


We’ve arrived just in time to witness the white man’s lodge disappear
before us."


"White man’s lodge, Cap?"


Strelna


Dwyer's Inn at
Strelna  --photo courtesy of Candy Waugaman
"This was for the trophy hunters. It was not for us. This was the symbol
of the men whose money built your railroad and that mine, Mr. Stevenson. Now it’s
going up in smoke. It will be only the first of many."

Cap’s prediction froze the conductor in his steps.


The Indians here really do resent us. My God, we give them work and
they spit on us. We give them a better life and they laugh at us. Even
this man Cap, whom I’ve worked with for years sounds like an enemy. Or
maybe I’m the one looking at it all wrong.


As if to answer his thoughts, Cap continued.

"You take our land and hunt it until nothing remains and then expect us
to be grateful that you bring us white man food. You take our language and give
us yours and tell us we must be like you, then you give us only work the white
men won’t take and tell us we can’t go here and we can’t go there. You
expect us to want to save places like this after all that disrespect?"
He walked away from the conductor, joining the other Natives closer to the
wall of fire.

"It’s too hot to get anywhere near it, Cap. Look at the shape of
the building dissolve before us."

"This doesn’t look good for our fall guiding business, Cap. That
rich-man’s place was where our sheep-hunting customers gathered."
"Nicolai wouldn’t have minded, Sla’cheen. You know what he
thought of those big game trophy hunters. Maybe this was Kay-yee-gay ‘s
doing."

"The spirit of Nicolai ? That wouldn’t surprise me, Cap. He resented
anyone hunting our land except us. He always said they were rich, so they could
bring in their own meat. Uncle Tanas stepped up behind them to add to the
conversation.

"I know you boys made money off of them. That was good. Billum would
have done the same. But always remember that our great tyone hated trophy
hunters. Many times he said that hunting for just the horns is what killed off
our Indian brothers’ way of life. He feared the hunters almost as much as the
railroad which brought them in."

"But Uncle, you’ve worked for the railroad company for years. You’re
a regular , just like Tom or Uncle Andrew. The railroad’s your life."

"I know. I’m proud of my work, but it still bothers me sometimes. Yet
even your own grandfather told us we can’t turn back."
"He said that we must make the railroad our own, uncle. It’s the only
way."

"We have to stop talking and start fighting this losing battle. Let’s
look like we mean to save what we all know is lost."

"Okay, we can look like we want to save it, " replied Cap.

Tanas tried to gather his scattered crew, most of whom stood by watching the
blaze in complete fascination. They seemed to enjoy the spectacle.

"Let’s grab a hose and help bring that fire down," Tanas yelled
out.

"In the end this could work out well for those of us who are still here,
Cap. Maybe not us, but Uncle Eskilida’s people. They live right here. If
enough white men leave, our people can come back and hunt as before."
Cap grabbed Johnny’s shoulder and pointed upward. In the distance were the Saghani-Ggaay--four
large black ravens circling high overhead.

"They’re here. Why always four, Cap ?"

"They appeared only after Nicolai’s curse. When the end comes, there
will be a multitude of them. Until then, there will always be two pairs. It is
the way of the Kay-yee-gay who resides with us in this valley."




Gilahina crew


CRNW work crew on
the Gilahina trestle, west end.   --Laurie Nyman


Continue with Chapter 35, "Returning Crew Meets Tom"

Chapter 34: "Strelna Work Crew Sets Up," Pt 2




work train 1

"In the early
days a white man had been given charge of each Native crew. The white bosses
never acknowledged the Indians by name, preferring to assign numbers
instead. They would count one through twelve. If there were twelve men, no
matter which twelve they were, the crew was considered complete. Sometimes
the Indians would substitute one of the men for another without telling the
white crew boss, but the twelve men whose names were on the payroll were the
ones who would get paid. The Indians would replace one of their own if he
was sick, or had to be with h is family, or even if he was too drunk to be
present. That way the hired Indian would still be paid and would not lose
his job. The substitute who replaced the regular would receive other
compensation from the Indians themselves. All Natives protected each other
in a system they developed from the very earliest of the railroad days."
 
A work train
consist with a pile driver heads toward Chitina from Tiekel. --UAF, Julie
Sweeney Collection, 97-139-322


pile driver
A CRNW Railway
piledriver    --Laurie Nyman


"Tanas, how far to Strelna ?"

"About nine miles, Charles. You boys come with me. We have to grab some
wheelbarrows and help the others."


"Tanas, I spotted a large moose out there in the brush. Let’s hunt it
down for lunch. Let the others run the wheelbarrows. We’d all rather have
moose than most anything else."


"Charles, now you’re talking. Cap! Johnny! Go with Charles. He says
there’s a moose out there. See if you can bring it in. Yes, dead, you
half-white jackass! Butcher it up and give it to the cook. Maybe we can have it
in time for a late dinner."


"Beats working the wheelbarrows and hefting 450 pounds of rails."

"The company’s going to pay for the food one way or the other. Get out
there and bring it in!"


The three skeel’eh needed no further encouragement. Each grabbed a
thirty-thirty rifle and headed north through the heavy brush. It wasn’t long
before Tanas heard three shots.




One bullet each. Guess they weren’t taking any chances. Moose
meat!

The crew’ll be happy tonight. Good thing. I’d hate to have to
explain to the rest of ‘em why they’re working so hard while those
three bumpkins are beating the bushes.


Several hours later, the crew finished removing sixty feet of rail, and
hauling in the gravel fill. The skeel’eh were quick to skin and butcher
the large horned animal. In the meantime, the rest of the crew arrived on No.
22. In the rear of the consist was the familiar Baldwin pusher. Johnny and Cap
walked the long distance to the front of No. 100 to uncouple it from the second
consist. Having been freed for a second time, the old engine once again headed
down hil in reverse for its slow return trip to the maintenance shop at Chitina.

After the crew had dumped about a hundred yards of gravel on the low spot,
Tanas finally called the work to a halt.


"We’ve done it. That’s good enough. It’s time to put the track
back in place. Food break first. The cook says it’s chicken soup and beans for
lunch, but it’ll be fresh moose stew for dinner."



Indian hunter
Above: Indian hunter;  
Below: Hunting party / work train crew on the CRNW right-of-way 
--Laurie Nyman



Hunting Party


The cheers from the crew confirmed Tanas’s decision to send his three
nephews on the moose hunt. Few moose had been taken that winter. Many Chitina
families had to subsist on salmon, rice and beans the entire winter. Toward the
end of winter, even the salmon had run out.


After lunch, the men re-installed the three, twenty-foot sections of rail.
Foreman Jack Corey asked engineer Art Holt and conductor Matt Stevenson to hold
up the train at Kotsina siding overnight. The engineers agreed. It was getting
too dark to see the condition of the track. Matt telegraphed McCarthy and
Chitina, notifying them that the Chitina Local was closed from Strelna to
Kotsina at least until the next day.


"Charles, how’d you get so lucky? We’ve looked for moose all winter.
Couldn’t find anything since nen’testende."


"You mean freeze-up, Cap ? No moose at Tonsina ? There weren’t any
moose near Chitina, either. This must be the first. Sure has good taste. The
cook did a great job with it on such a short notice."


"I’d have joined the crew just to eat the carrots, I’m so
hungry."


"You mean you’re sick of beans with Pilot Bread, Cap ?"
"That’s it, Sla’cheen. Too many beans. That was all we had.
Sometimes I think this railroad is a good thing. It brought us real food."


"You must be getting soft, Cap. You don’t sound like your usual
self."


"Starvation around here, Sla’cheen."

"It’s a tough life, Cap."

Cap chewed a sinewy piece of moose meat, then grinned back at Johnny.
"Not tough at all, Sla’cheen. Just right !"


After their dinner, the skeel’eh walked west down the tracks,
carrying their Winchesters just in case.


"Maybe we’ll find some rabbit this way. It’s a good area."

"I suppose since I’m the youngest, you’ll expect me to skin
it."


"You brought your knife, didn’t you, skell’eh ?"

"I always have my knife on me, Johnny."

They headed to a point where the track starts to veer to the northwest. It
was the top of the long slope to the river base. The forested area opened up
there, allowing a magnificent view of the wide, braided Chitina River hundreds
of feet below.


"Look at the, Cap. The Tsedi Na’--the very center of our people’s
way of life."


It was still covered with ice, though an open channel had broken through.
"It won’t be long now, " Charles observed, pointing to the open
water, which was already starting to flow over the top of the ice.


"That’s called kataleni. The ts’itu’ and its tendelzaghi
are what you see."


Charles gave a puzzled look to Johnny.

"Open water and ice chunks on the river, Charles. Never mind Cap. He
confuses me, too. Cap tries to keep our Ahtna words alive, even though the
teachers beat him to stop it. They beat me too. I learned quick. I had to help
Cap because they kept throwing him out of school."


A strong wind blowing through the canyon worked its way up the high ridge to
the rail grade, sending cold snow dust blowing around the open area.


"Whew ! It’s too cold to stay out here in the open. Let’s head back
to the bunk car. Long day tomorrow."


The three returned with five snow-shoe hares they encountered on the way
back. The temperature on the hill that night dropped to zero. In the black
spruce-lined area where the two maintenance train consists sat at Kotsina
siding, the wind rustled the trees, but the trains themselves were sheltered
amidst the heavy growth. The engineers and firemen kept the boilers fired all
night. Unlike the newer 70-series, these two had been converted back to coal.
They required constant shoveling. Crew members alternated on duty with the
firemen all night long. The 1910-era engines hummed in quiet contentment all
night.


The light was sufficient at seven to begin moving the trains forward. The
cooks had breakfast ready by six so that everyone would be ready to continue the
slow run into Strelna. Maintenance Local No. 22 was now in the lead, since it
was on the main line all night. It would work its way on to Porphyry, once it
picked up its Strelna crew.


The rail followed a largely straight line past Strelna and Silver Lakes. Then
it hit a large curve. The sudden jerk as the rear train skidded to a halt
knocked Charles off his seat in the cupola. He fell down to the floor of the
caboose, hitting the wood hard.


"What was that?" Charles, are you all right?"

Johnny jumped down, followed by Cap. They pulled Charles off the floor. He
was stunned, but not hurt. Matt had already rushed out the front door of the
caboose. Johnny and Cap helped Charles out. Far ahead they could see the place
where engine no. 22 had derailed on the wide curve. It would be another long
day.


Matt returned for Cap.





Dwyers Inn


"Cap was among the
first to spot the smoke somewhere in the distance. He watched for the
flames through the trees.  It was not long before the raging fire
could be seen by everyone.  It was a large one. As the train hit the
straight stretch that passed by Strelna, the form of Dwyer's Inn came into
view, heavily involved in flames.  A small gathering of people was
trying to save the structure with a hose from the nearby water tower, but
the effort was clearly futile.   The crews from the three work
trains jumped out to help, but little more could be done.  The large
two-story log building would burn to the ground.  A historic piece of
Alaska was going up in flames.
Dwyer's Inn at
Strelna






Chapter 34: "Strelna Work Crew Sets Up," Pt 1



"You must never forget who you are, who your people are, or
where you came from. Even as you learn the new and strange ways of the
white man--and you must be a good student of him and his ways--you are
one of us and you will always be one of us." --Chief Nicolai
speaking to his grandsons at the Spirit Camp of Taral in 1910.




Chitina crossing work train


"It had been a long,
cold, miserable, and unproductive winter.  Everyone--Native and white
alike--had waited anxiously for the spring breakup so they could get back
to work.  Trapping had been at an all-time low, and no one had any
spare cash.  There would be no complaints about the existence of the
railroad this year.  It was the savior.  The CRNW would keep the
people of Chitina alive through another year.  It had long since
become a part of the Native way of life."
A work train waits by the
line shack near the crossing.  The spring breakup has already taken
out the trestle.  --Photo above courtesy of Jerrold Qua

--Photo below courtesy of Laurie Nyman

Chitina crossing crew
Below: the bridge at MP 132 awaits
repairs  --Laurie Nyman



Chitina crossing out

Another spring break-up was underway. After a long winter of minus fifty to
minus sixty degree temperatures, the increasing daylight had finally brought in
a warming trend. Night time temperatures had been minus twenty-five the week
before. By early March, the lowest temperatures were only minus ten. Afternoon
readings had been rising into the thirties since early February and had hit
forty degrees above by the end of the month, causing considerable glaciation
along the tracks and the beginnings of ice-breakups on the rivers.


The railroad had assembled two trains to work the eastern end, otherwise
known as the Chitina Local branch. Because the track walkers had already
detected problems with the rail bed near Strelna, the CRNW shut down the line
east of Chitina and dispatched the two maintenance consists north much earlier
than normal. The last load of ore had gone through Chitina March 2nd. There
would be no more runs until the problems with a sinking rail bed were corrected.
The bridge watcher at the Copper River crossing predicted that the ice would go
out early. The trestle crossing would go out with the ice. 


The two maintenance trains had to be over the bridge near Chitina before the 
trestle washed away. Freight consolidation engine no. 21 arrived from Cordova first. 
It was pulling a line of twenty, 1870s-era dump cars loaded with gravel, plus four
flatcars piled high with wooden ties and steel rail couplings and other
hardware, a box car full of tools, a kitchen car, two bunk cars, and a caboose.
Behind the first train was a second, which also carried a pile-driver rig.

The railroad scheduled Chitina Local No. 21 to operate out of the Strelna
gravel pit, while No. 22 would continue on to Porphyry to work on the far end of
the Chitina Local Branch. The pile-driver was for repairs on the Kennicott River
trestle. It was also the back-up rig for the east-side when the time came for
Copper River trestle to wash out.


Cordova Locals 20 and 23 would work the area from the Copper River delta near
Cordova up to Chitina. All four consists had been assembled for spring break-up
repairs, similarly equipped with the same number of Western Air dump cars, flat
cars and the rest. Number 20 would be temporarily stationed at Chitina to work
from Chitina south to Bremner. That train would also utilize a largely Native
crew, as would numbers 21 and 22.


It had been a long, cold, miserable, and unproductive winter.
Everyone--Native and white alike--had waited anxiously for the spring breakup so
they could get back to work. Trapping had been at an all-time low and no one had
any spare cash. There would be no complaints about the existence railroad this
year. It was the savior. The CRNW would keep the people of Chitina alive through
another year. The railroad had long since become a part of the Native way of
life.


Although everyone who could work was ready to board, the Native crew for No.
22 would be picked up at Strelna, where the several small families headed by old
man Eskilida still lived, about sixteen miles away from Chitina. The railroad
also kept another crew in reserve at Chitina for Cordova Local No. 20, which
would be arriving within a week after 21 and 22 departed the depot.

These men might be needed to take the rails and stringers off the bridge
after the two maintenance trains crossed if it appeared that the trestle might
go out early. The railroad always tried to salvage the top part of the bridge.

As they began their tenth season working railroad maintenance, Johnny and Cap
had seniority. They chose to ride the caboose with the conductor. This was the
favored place on the train. Conductor Matt Stevenson always had hot coffee
brewing there. Besides, it was the warmest spot, and its high, rear-end cupola,
had an excellent view of the rest of the train and everything to the rear.


The two hopped aboard along with elder uncle Tanas Nicolai. Tanas was most
senior because he was also full-time. He headed the Native crew for Local No. 21
and even 22 when the two consists worked together. Tanas spread his crew out
between the two trains, so each would have a small complement of workers until
they reached Strelna. Then Tanas would take charge of crew 21 and his cousin
Edward would take crew 22.


In the earlier days a white man had been given charge of each Native crew.
The white bosses never acknowledged the Indians by name, preferring to assign
numbers to each man instead. They would count one through twelve. If there were
twelve men--no matter which twelve they were--the crew was considered complete.
Sometimes the Indians would substitute one of the men for another without
telling the white crew boss, but the twelve men whose names were on the payroll
were the ones who would get paid. The Indians would replace one of their own if
he was sick or had to be with his family or even if he was too drunk to be
present. That way the Indian whose name was on the payroll would still be paid
and would not lose his job.


The substitute who replaced the regular would receive other compensation from
the Indians themselves. Every Native protected each other in a system they
developed from the very earliest of the railroad days.


The Indian crew members found numerous ways to make life difficult for the
white crew bosses. The white men would often quit in complete frustration.
Finally, the railroad superintendent relented and began employing Native bosses.

Tanas, Edward, and Andrew of Chitina were among the first. Once the Indians
took charge of their own people, the railroad management discovered that
maintenance ran remarkably well.


Tanas had worked on the line since the first train came into old Chittyna in
1910. He was in the first group to benefit when Nicolai made the deal with Birch
that obligated the railroad to hire entire crews of Natives for seasonal
maintenance.


Nicolai did not ask for year-around work for most of his people because he
knew it would not benefit them. Instead he asked Birch to consider hiring a few
for full-time work so there would always be some Natives on the railroad
year-around.


The railroad unintentionally gave men like Tanas, Tom, Edward, and Andrew a
special status which was highly respected by their own people. Each of them
lived comfortably, if only modestly. Tanas had a skill for keeping the peace
between the Natives and the whites which the railroad valued. But in reality, he
used his powers more like that of a shop steward, always trying to protect his
people against the sometimes strange and arbitrary ways of railroad management.

It was in the early morning of March 5th, 1925 that the first consist, No.
21, pulled out from its place on the main line in front of the locomotive repair
barn. The engine arrived only the day before. It had been kept running all night
because it was far too cold to let the boiler shut down.




Eng 100
"Behind the caboose,
an old Baldwin mogul was coupled on to act as the pusher.  Number 100
was stationed at Chitina that year because the 4-percent grade on the
other side of the crossing required an extra engine to assist a fully
loaded consist up the long Kotsina hill. 
Engine No. 100 on a siding
near the Chitina crosing.  --UAF, Fairbanks, E.B. Schrock, 84-80-60
Tanas’s group boarded the caboose as the whistle blasted its warning.
Matt pointed to the pot, looking first at Tanas.
"It’s ready for you guys. Be my guest."

Johnny had talked Tanas into letting his brother Charles along with him on
this run. Although Charles had no seniority, Tanas allowed him to ride in the
caboose because Charles was part of the family already on board. Charles, as the
junior member poured the cups. He handed the first one to Tanas. It went in
order of rank and age, except Charles had deliberately given the white man,
conductor Stevenson, the second cup rather than the first.


Matt and Tanas, chose to stay below, allowing the younger ones to watch the
tracks from the cupola. Behind the caboose, an old Baldwin mogul was coupled on
to act as the pusher. No. 100 was permanently stationed at Chitina because the
four-percent grade on the other side of the crossing required an extra engine to
help a fully-loaded consist up the hill.


The Baldwin was second in age only to the legendary No. 50. Old No. 50--a
Rogers 4-6-2, was Mike Heney’s original--the first CRNW locomotive. Heney was
the contractor who built the White Pass out of Skagway and who had been in
charge of constructing the CRNW railbed when he suddenly took ill and died. The
railroad considered the 1871-vintage wood-burning engine obsolete. Old No. 50
was too antiquated to sell, so the railroad kept it in the eleven-bay roundhouse
at Cordova, ready if it was ever needed for whatever duties were required. It
never was. The duties of Heney’s original engine ended with the driving of the
copper spike at Kennecott on March 29th, 1911. It sat in the darkness of the
roundhouse for twenty-seven years, a useless relic of the frontier days of old
Alaska.


Cap sat on the north side of the cupola. He had a good view looking straight
down the loose, sandy cliff which dropped steeply into the Kotsina River bed
over a hundred fifty feet below. This section of the railbed was subject to
heavy erosion. Still going uphill, the rails left the Kotsina basin, heading
southeast. The rails crossed the ridge which separated the Kotsina from the
Chitina River until the wide Chitina River canyon was finally in view. Then the
rails resumed an easterly course. It was only a few minutes into Kotsina. The
small whistle-stop consisted of a siding and a line shack. The line shack was
rarely used. It was one of twenty-four of similarly designed ten by twelve foot
frame buildings with hip-end roofs, dating back to 1914 when the railroad began
upgrading its many miles of line so it could operate in the winter.


The train pulled off the track onto the siding. Johnny and Charles helped the
Baldwin pusher uncouple. It backed out of the siding and took off in reverse,
all the way down the six miles of steep hill to Chitina.


"Look, Cap. There’s smoke coming from the line shack."

The entire Native crew assembled there.

"The foreman from Strelna is here. There’s already a problem with the
track sinking just ahead. We’ll have to get out the wheel barrows and pull up
some of the track for shoring up. The section foreman says its unsafe to run the
engine any farther until we repair it."


"Okay, Tanas. Guess we know where we’ll be tonight."

Matt returned to confirm Tanas’s evaluation.

"Cap, climb that pole and tap into the line so I can telegraph the
stations at McCarthy and Chitina.


"This looks like it, boys. Haven’t seen the problem yet, but foreman
Corey seems to think it’ll take several hours to repair the damage. He says
much of the rest of the line into Strelna is beginning to sink, so there may be
other delays. If we’re lucky enough to get through to Strelna, we have weeks
of work ahead of us. Everything seems to be sinking."


"It’s already started? Seems awfully early, especially as cold as it’s
been."


"There’s a spring and a pond up there that never froze. We thought we’d
taken care of the problem last year, and the year before that, and the year
before that."


"So this is it? We’re at Kotsina tonight?"

"Looks that way to me, Johnny, unless we’re lucky. Cap! You connected
yet? Climb on down here with that wire so I can tie in with my key!"


"The other load of gravel cars should be along shortly. We may need the
extra gravel in case the 240 yards we have on hand is not enough. Can’t get to
the Strelna gravel pit from this side. It’s too far away."



work train 3

"It was in the early
morning of March 5th, 1925, that the first consist, No. 21, pulled out
from its place on the main line in front of the locomotive repair
barn.  The engine had arrived from Cordova only the day before.
It had been kept running all night because it was far too cold to let the
boiler shut down."
A winter work train
consist works its way through the Abercrombie area.  --Candy
Waugaman Collection




Chapter 33: "Billiard Hall Conversation," Pt 2

  
         “You know, Cap, I’ve had the same sense about the place since
we first went to work up at Erie.  The people will be gone soon.  Maybe
not the camp, but the people.  Even grandfather said it would not last. 
He told me I’d live to see it all end and that even the railroad would
quit running one day.”

        “If that’s true, and I am sure deep within myself that it really
is, what do you think will happen to McCarthy?”

        “McCarthy will still be there, even if the mine quits.  Look at
all the placer claims out there.  McCarthy does a lot of outfitting,
just like Chitina does.”

        “Maybe, but even if McCarthy survives Kennecott, it won’t be the
same.  Think about it.  What do you see on the railroad except Kennecott
ore and Kennecott freight.  There sure aren’t many passengers.  Never
were. When I came back from McCarthy last time, I was alone in  the
coach.  Just me and the dog and that attendant.  That was it. 

        “This is just a mining railroad.  I know it looks like something
more than that, but without the mine, I don’t think there could be a
railroad.  Nicolai was right.  We’ll both live to see the end of it. 
And that means the end of McCarthy.   You don’t think Rose would want to
stay in that town once the supplies stop coming, do you?”

          “So Cap, what are you saying?  Are you saying that Rose will
leave and go where ? Where will she go ?”


Main Street
Forty-below in
Chitina  --Anchorage Museum of History & Art
        “Where do you think ?  She’s a big-town girl who’s making money
at McCarthy because there’s so much business now.  That’s it.  When the
business moves, she will too.  She’ll probably leave Alaska.   Do you
think she’ll really want you by then anyway?  You know what she is.  She
loves money.  Not you.  Not any man.”

        Johnny almost struck Cap for that, but backed off.  Cap was
ready for him, but  Johnny’s anger gave way to depression.  He leaned 
back in the chair, feeling spent.   He had to face it and admit to
himself that Cap might be  right.   

        “Sorry about that, Cap.  I know you’ve been polite about it and
avoided the subject. The sad part is you may be right.   She probably
proved your point when she  refused to come back here with me .”

        “Look, Johnny, I told you what I believe.  I don’t want to dwell
on it.  I’d rather try to beat you at this game of billiards than fight
you.   What good would the fighting do?   We’ve backed each other up
since school days--since we were both six or seven years old.  That’s a
long time.  We’re sla’cheen who are fortunate enough to claim the
same grandfather.   If we’re going to fight, let’s save it for someone
who truly is our enemy.”

        They started a new game.  Cap beat Johnny easily, probably
because Johnny’s mind was somewhere else.   He was silent for some time
before finally speaking back up.

        “I got a letter from Frank Buckner.  He wants us back next
year.”

        “Really?  Do you you want to go back?  If you really want to go,
I’ll be there with you.  No money around here, anyway.”


        “Still?   After all that has happened?”

        “Still.  It doesn’t matter what has happened.  We’re
sla’cheen
.”

        “Frank wrote that the company plans to repaint the mill next
year.  They’re also going to build a larger hospital. He wants us back
because of our experience on that power plant job.  No problem getting
on, he wrote. The superintendent has okayed us for rehire to do the
paint job. It’s a big one, similar to the power plant painting job.  
Harder, though, because the building has old paint which has to be
scraped off.”



early Kennecott
Kennecott
circa 1912      
--Cordova Museum
        Cap considered it,  while he watched Johnny rack up a new game. 
He opened the stove door and put in yet another stick of wood.

        “We sure have to work hard around here to stay warm.”

        “Yes, it hurts me to watch you sit in that captain’s chair and
place a stick of dried,  cut firewood into a hot-burning stove.  It must
kill you, Cap.”

        “You know what I mean.  It takes a big load of wood to keep any
of these places going.  That’s all day out in the woods.  Sometimes I
think we had it easy at Kennecott.”

        “So it’s Kennecott ?”

        “It’s either that or the railroad maintenance work again if we
want enough cash for the year.  Trapping isn’t going to do it. I just
want to be able to get out of work by fall time so I can hunt and do the
guiding business again.   We completely missed it last year. At the time
I never gave it much thought because we were so busy.  But I don’t want
to miss out on the hunting.   Then there’s still next winter’s
trapping.”

        “So, it’s settled then. We’re a team, once again.”

        “We’re a team, Sla’cheen.”

        Kay-yew-nee jumped for the door.  His ears were straight up and
his tail started wagging.  Johnny’s mother Helen came in the door. 
Charles followed. The wagon was waiting outside with her companion Fred
from Copper Center holding the lines.   

        “You two have been down here long enough.  It’s cold out here
and I came to pick you up for dinner.  We’ve been working on the moose
stew all day, and you need to come home.  That’s that.”

        “I cleaned out the back of the wagon so we can ride below
cover.”

        “That’s good of you, Charles.  You’re a great skell-eh.”

        “It’s really cold out there, Johnny.  I’m riding in back with
both of you.  Mom keeps warm with Fred up front.  She actually enjoys
it.”

        “Fred’s my blanket,” Helen replied.

        “Let’s head on up the hill, Cap.  I’m ready. You’re staying
until after the cold spell, aren’t you ?”

        “I’m ready for some good Native food, and I was planning on
staying with you anyway.   Soon as this weather breaks, I’ve got to pick
up my supplies and get back to Tonsina.”

        “Smitty ! We’re leaving ! You back there ?”

        Rita stepped through the door.

        “Smitty’s sleeping.  You’re the only ones left.  I’m closing now
anyway.”

        “Got a bottle ?”

        “Got money ?”

        “Will these do ?”

        Johnny threw several silver dollars onto the counter.  Rita’s
eyes widened.  She was resigned to credit in the winter time.  The coins
were a welcomed sight.

        “You want two bottles ?”

        “You got it, Rita.  Say good night to Smitty.  Be sure to
tighten up the stove.  Goodnight.”

        “Did you see that old red-haired witch’s look when I threw her
those coins, Cap ?  Guess that’s what it takes to make women happy.”

        The four of them walked out to the waiting wagon.  A huge horse
was anxious to get moving.  It was frigid out there.  The smoke from the
stacks throughout town was rising to about sixty feet and then leveling
off, creating a canopy of gray where the temperature was warmer.   This
was a phenomena of extremely cold weather.

        Fred had the use of the horse thanks to his connections with Orr
Stage Lines.  He had driven the wagon up the hill only to find Helen
wanting him to bring her back down to pick up her two boys.  She
considered Cap the same as one of her own sons and she fussed over him
just as she did over Johnny.  
          
Fred, a good natured Tl’aticae’e Native who had known Helen since the old days, 
had happily obliged.  He would be staying with Helen tonight, putting up the
horse in a makeshift barn until morning when it had to be returned to
the stage line company.   Actually, he would be taking the wagon into
Copper Center tomorrow himself.   The wagon passed the Commercial Hotel
and began the pull up the long hill into the Indian village of Chittyna
where a large pot of moose stew and a very warm and cheerful, if
somewhat smoky, large open room awaited the five of them.

        “If Emil was still alive, he’d have been here with me.  I would
have taken care of him.  He would not have needed to buy a cabin for
himself.”

        “I know, Mom.  I wish I could have brought him back.”

        “You did.”   Johnny looked up from under the tarp to his mother
who was huddled close to Fred.  He pulled his heavy coat around himself
tighter.  It was biting cold out there.   He looked forward to the warm
fire up the hill, the moose stew and the home-brewed tea. 

        “Skeel-eh, look !  It’s the Yaw-koss out to greet
us.”  

        Cap was pointing toward the Northern Lights, which were dancing
wildly across the sky in all their brilliant hues of red, white and
green over Chittyna Village. 

        “It’s like the old days at Taral.”

        “Yes, it is skeel-eh Charles.  You were there with us to
hear the story Shee-ya told us that night.  The Great Creator is
smiling upon us tonight as we ride home to the house we built for our
shee-ya
. Sla’cheen, we have made the right decision.
Kennecott waits for us once again.
 
        “I hope it waits for me, too, Soon-ga.”

        “For you, too, Charles.”

        Johnny listened to the conversation between Cap and Charles
completely astonished.

        “You think we can somehow get them to hire Charles ?”

        “Charles will be there.  I’m sure of it, Sla’cheen.  The
time is right.”

winter hauling
Winter hauling
over the frozen rivers in the lower Copper River valley 
-Laurie Nyman photo