08 February 2011

Chapter 37: "Emil's Paint Shop," Pt 2


Kennecott carpenter shop
Carpenter & paint shop, Company Store, Laundromat, Butcher Shop & West Bunkhouse, with Five-Plex
Apartments on the hill to the right.   --UAF Photo Archives
          
“Welcome back, guys.  We received your telegram, in time to make your room arrangements.  Frank
saw to it that you get room 205 once again.”
          
“It seems strange arriving here without Dad to greet us.”
          
“We all miss him.  We thought a great deal of him.  No one’s been in his paint shop since he
departed.  I was just down there today for the first time in months.  It’s still
the same, except I smelled some spilled or open paint down there.  Johnny, I’m
giving you your dad’s job of head painter. Emil’s shop is yours now.”
          
“I don’t know what to say, Mr. Jensen. Why me?”
          
“For one thing, there’s been no need for a paint foreman until now.  We need one for the mill
job.  You’ve learned the ropes. You know how we do our paint work.  You
certainly had enough experience on our big job last year. We’re short handed, as
usual, and here you are.  It’s yours.  Treat the job right.
          
“As I said, I noticed a heavy lead paint smell down there.  The old shop will need some
cleanup and airing out before you can use it.”

“I’m thrilled to have my dad’s shop, if even for a short time.  Let’s take a look at it.”
          
They crossed the train over the rear deck of the Pullman combine and headed for the paint
shop in the lower level of the old sawmill.
          
“We better open some windows and doors down here.  It sure smells strong.  We’ll start right on
it.”
          
“Go up there and get settled and get some lunch. You look like you can use it.  See you down
here after a while.”
          
Less than an hour later, the two returned to Emil’s shop.
          
“It may have smelled strongly of paint fumes, but it’s Dad’s place.  Now it’s ours as well,
Cap.  Look, Dad’s old  tools are neatly arranged and ready to go.”



Kennecott carpenter shop


Two early views
of the carpenter shop when it was a saw mill that also contained the
power plant   --AMHA

early carpenter shop



Johnny picked up one of the brushes hanging on the wall.  He ran his thumb through it. 
The bristles were soft and  pliable. 
          
“Nice.  Good old Dad.  Say, Cap, it seems awfully dark down here. I wonder if there are any
more lights working. What’s this?”
          
Johnny found the switch and flipped it.  The room turned bright.
          
“I thought so. 
There had to be more lights somewhere. Help me with this sliding door, Cap.”
          
The heavy old door resisted.  They pushed until it finally relented, letting in the afternoon
sun from the west.
           
“Now that’s more like it. We can get some air in this place finally. The spilled paint smell
in here is terrible.  Hey, Johnny, look at the wide deck out here.  It must have
been used for open storage at one time.”
          
“Good place to set the old paint cans.”
          
“Let’s find the open paint and clean it up, Sla’cheen.  Looks like there’s a lot
of old paint cans that can be just pitched out.”
          
“Since you’re the boss down here, where do I haul the bad cans, Johnny?”
          
“Out to the deck, where else?  Throw the empties onto the ground.  The yard crew can come
and get ‘em.”
          
“Look over here, Indian boss.”
         
“Cut it out, Cap. It’s just me. Remember?”
          
“I just want you to remember it’s just you. Don’t need the title going to your head,
Indian boss. I still have to work and live with you.”
          
Cap was staring at a large group of five-gallon paint cans along a back wall. 
          
“This must be it.  Yes, here it is. There’s red paint that’s flowed all over the floor back
here. It’s still wet. One of these cans near the wall must have split open
somehow really recently. Aren’t we  lucky ?  Nasty job ahead of us here, boss. 
Wouldn’t want to have to breathe this stuff very long. It’s already giving me a
headache.”
         
“This is probably what killed Dad, Cap.  Can you believe this smell?  Imagine breathing
it for years.  How could anyone live with this? Now, I’m getting a
headache.
          
“We’ll leave the sliding door open and get back to this later, Cap.  Enough of this. Time to
get out of here.  I can use the fresh air.  Let’s check in with the office and
see Frank.”
          
The train was already being loaded with ore when the two crossed over one of the couplings
between two empty cars.  They followed the railroad trestle past the
electricians’ warehouse.  At the rear of the building was the beginning of the
sidewalk which passed the office on the way to National Creek dam.
          
“Dad said the office is the second oldest building on the property.  Only the sawmill where
our paint shop sits is older.  Look at that  log front face. Dad  said that
Stephen Birch himself helped built it.”
          
A familiar looking young man behind the glass handed the two their necessary paperwork.
          
“Bittner, right?  You’re John Bittner.  You’ve got the large cottage on the north end--the
one with the cat that sometimes watched us work.”
          
“That’s me. Good memory.  Great to see you guys again.  Frank’s expecting you.”
          
“That would be me.”


abandoned carpenter shop


A view of the Carpenter Shop, Company  Store & West Bunkhouse in abandoned Kennecott in 1955   --UAF Archives
          

Frank had slipped down the narrow L-shaped stairwell.  Johnny hugged Frank, taking him
completely  by surprise.  He was not aware that the practice was common among
Indians who know each other well.  Frank felt embarrassed, but he was also
touched by the show of affection.
          
“You’re almost one of us, Frank. You’ve always backed us up.  Always been there for us.  Good
to see you again.”      
          
Frank fought himself hard to not let his emotions show.  The young clerk Bittner was a little dumbfounded at first, but accepted it and went on with his paperwork.
          
“Don’t make me into something that I’m not.  But thanks.  Thank you so much.  What a great way
to end this day.  Look, I have to go now.”
          
All this was just a little too much for Frank.  He escaped upstairs to the map room. 
Fortunately, everyone else had already departed the office except the young
clerk John Bittner, who did not seem to think this was such a big deal.  

         
Does this mean I’m finally doing something right? 
Have I found my true home here at Kennecott?
         
          
The junior engineer turned back to his work.  He would be working late again tonight. Soon
he would be returning to his assignment at Jumbo.
          
Johnny and Cap approached the west barrack in silence. They reached the familiar room in the
attic area.  It had two bunks, but only the two of them were assigned to 205..
          
“This Kennecott, it is a very strange place, Johnny.  There are men here who would
just as soon kill us as look at us and then there are those who make us feel
like we’re home.  I think it’s growing on me, Sla’cheen.
          
“Look at Chris Jensen, for example.  He made you the paint foreman, giving you your Dad’s old
shop like it was nothing.  That old paint shop’s been untouched all this
time--almost like Jensen  was saving your Dad’s place just for you. I think he
wanted you and no one else to have it.  Just like our engineer friend up there.
He made sure we got our very same room back, with no room mates.  He
understands, yet he doesn’t know us.”
          
“It’s great, isn’t it. There’s some really nice people up here.  Even that Bittner fellow is
okay. I’d like to see this season go by well without serious problems.  It seems
like there’s always a dark lining to everything.  Speaking of that, what do you
suppose happened back at McCarthy?”
          
Shee-ya appeared in my dream.  In the very room where I was dreaming he showed up and
let me see the future of McCarthy.   I could sense something very strange there
even before my dream.  Or maybe it was a vision.
          
“It’s what I told you earlier, back in the billiards hall in Chitina.  This place--railroad,
white man towns, the mines, everything--is doomed.  It won’t even be that long. 
Nicolai came as a kay-yee-gay--a ghost--just like you saw him through the
window.  He told me that soon we will our land back.  But I’m not sure I want it
back in the way he showed it to me.  I just don’t know now.  I was so sure about
it before.  It was all so strange. Maybe it wasn’t him, but an evil spirit who
looked like him.  You saw that raven.  Not a good sign.  There was one other
thing.  He told me that we sla’cheen must stick together through whatever
is coming.  He said we would both perish if we did not.”
                  



midnight sun
The midnight sun over
Kennecott's carpenter shop in the 1930s     --W.A.
Richelsen
  

Chapter 37: "Emil's Paint Shop," Pt 1


Kennecott aerial
Kennecott 1938 aerial showing the edge of the Kennicott Glacier. National Creek is in the center. Above it is the unnamed rock glacier. To the right of that is Porphyry Mountain.   --Bradford Washburn, UAF Archives
Below is a detail of the above aerial photograph showing a recently-abandoned ghost town of Kennecott in 1939

Kennecott aerial detail
  
John Bittner picked up the stack of telegrams from the railroad station office. One of them was
addressed to Frank Buckner. 
         
“Thanks, John.  I see the two Indian painters will be up on the train today. Set up the
paperwork and give me their room assignment. I’ll let Chris know.”
          
Frank brought the telegram down to the old carpenter shop, where master carpenter 
Chris Jensen was looking over the plans for the new hospital annex.
          
“Yes, I remember those two well from the power plant job.   Good.  We can certainly use
them for the repainting work on the mill.   The paint for that work should
already be here in one of the the boxcars that arrived a few days ago.  It’s on
the north siding. Good timing.  Weather’s just right, too.”
          
“I brought the room assignment with me. I’m leaving it to you to see they’re set up in camp,
since you’re their foreman for this job.”
          
“West barrack number 205, is it? That sounds familiar. Didn’t they have that one before?”


West Bunkhouse
The West Barrack at Kennecott 
-- Simpson files
         
“I had to do some advance planning to see they had the same room.  I want them to feel
they’re on familiar ground.”
          
“That’s awfully thoughtful of you, Frank.”
          
“Those are special men. John lost his father here last year while we still had the two of
them working up at Erie. The pair did good work for us on three different
assignments.  I want them treated right.  It was their room before. I wanted to
make sure it was still theirs.”

“Yes, Emil was a good man, and his son and that other fellow did good work for us here at the
shop and at the power plant.  I’ll intercept them at the train station and see
to everything.  Haven’t had a paint foreman since Emil died. I might just give
Johnny the job.”
          
“Wouldn’t that be something?  Think he’s up to it?”
          
“I’m with you, Frank.  I think those two earned their place here. It’s just a title anyway, but
it’ll let them work out of Emil’s old shop. No one’s touched it since he died. 
Been no reason to go in there.”
          
“There’s the whistle, Chris.  I’m leaving it to you. I’ve got to get back.”
          
Chris accompanied Frank out of the old shop.  He took a good look at the top of the
mill.
          
It was badly faded.  Parts of the building still had the original paint from 1911. The newest
paint was on the highest section just above the conveyors and elevators.  Those
were levels thirteen and fourteen, which were rebuilt to accommodate the new
Jumbo tram in 1915.   The entire west face, which was the narrow end facing the
glacier, had been blasted without mercy by the elements over the years.   Chris
had already decided that everything from the Hancock jig at level six, all the
way to the top, which was level fourteen, would have to be repainted.  The lower
end had already been modified two years before.  All of the lower levels had new
paint.
        
 
There are several men around here who could
handle those heights, but they’re all miners and tram men. Only those two
Indians and Henry have any painting experience, thanks to last year’s job.
Henry’s tied up, so It’ll be good to have someone I can rely on to do the work.

I hope I can rely on them.


          
Chris felt the vibrations running through the tracks.  It would not be long.  He  headed 
back into the carpenter shop, lifted up the hatch door and walked  down the narrow
stairwell into the paint room.   No one had used the paint shop since Emil
died.  It seemed only fitting that he was about to give this area over to Emil’s
very own son.   Everything appeared to be in place.  Emil had left the tools
cleaned and neatly arranged for the next job.


Kennecott 1981
Early 1980s view of the
West Bunkhouse, Company Store and the footprint remains of the Carpenter
Shop    --HAER
         

Darn.  I smell paint down here.  Something’s broken open.  Looks like those boys have
some cleanup work for their first job.  Smells strong. I’m out of this place.

          
Chris headed back up the stairs, stopping to close the hatch to keep the spilled paint 
smell contained.  He stepped out into the light and walked over to the small telegraph
station.  The train appeared just past the dairy tender first, then the engine.
The engine and its tender had been faced the opposite direction at the Shushanna
Junction turntable, then sent up the nearly five miles up the tracks in reverse
pulling its long load of empty flat cars.  Number 74 would leave Kennecott in a
few hours facing south.  The engines, for safety reasons,  always had to face
the proper direction going down the hill into the McCarthy area.  There was no
turn-around at Kennecott, so the engine and tender had to be reversed at
Shushanna Junction. 
          
The loud screeching sounds of metal on metal as the brakes were applied served as the
final notice that the engine was approaching its destination, passing the
recreation hall, then the west barrack and company store before arriving at the
station.
          
The engine backed into place, facing the combine, several box cars, and the usual long line
of steel flatcars with a caboose somewhere out on the very far end.   Art Holt
pulled the combine to a stop in front of the station. Chris moved forward to
greet Johnny and Cap.


early Kennecott
Very early Kennecott, probably 1910, showing the orignal dairy with the sawmill-carpenter shop
behind it and the new mill under construction in the distance.  On the right is the railroad bed under construction in advance of the iron which was to be laid on this section in late March 1911.  
--Lone Janson



Continue

Chapter 36: "Cap's Vision of Nicolai," Pt 2


ML warehouse McCarthy
The old Mother Lode warehouse at the end of the tracks at the ghost town of McCarthy in 1955with tourists preparing to ride the rails to Kennecott--4 1/2 miles tothe north.  The old Mother Lode Copper Company sledded its ore tohere for shipment to the smelter at Tacoma.  This was one of thelast historic structures at McCarthy to burn down.  
           

The Mecca,where the two met Stephen Birch and his party the summer before was locked up.
He looked through the glass.  He could see the shapes of the three billiards
tables in there, but the place had a very dead look to it, similar to the drug
store.  Cap felt a presence.   He turned around, startled to see a
motherly-appearing woman who was probably in her fifties staring at him and
smiling. 
          
“Hello, youngman.  Are you looking for a place to stay?  I operate several boarding houses
around here if you need a room.”
         
“I might.  I came in with another fellow. He headed to the Row to visit with someone named
Rose Katrina.  I’m not sure how long he plans to stay.”
          
She raised her eye brows. 
          
“Oh yes.  I know who that is.  Johnny Gakona.  I remember him from last year.  I think he
drinks too much.  I hope you don’t.  Rose works for me, you know.”
          
Then it hit Cap that this woman was Kate Kennedy. She was the infamous stout matron 
who oversaw all the prostitutes in McCarthy.  She owned the Alaska Hotel and several other
businesses.  He had never encountered her before, but it was said that she also
controlled the prostitutes at Breedman’s Hotel Chitina.  Rumor had it that she
came from Dawson City where she made her first fortune.  This was a rich lady.


4th of July McCarthy race

July 4th Women's Racealong Shushanna Avenue  --Candy Waugaman Collection
         
“Your MadameKennedy, aren’t you?”
          
She smiled at that. The smile chilled Cap.        
         
“Look, I can take care of myself tonight.  I usually just camp out anyway.  Why don’t you let
Johnny know I’ll be at the usual place?”
          
Her smile quickly turned into a look of disapproval.
          
“That Johnny Gakona kid only paid once.  After that he took advantage of my girl and my
business.”
          
“Maybe I’ve changed my mind. We might be here for awhile  How much are your rooms?” 
          
Her eyes brightened up. 
          
“For you, only a dollar a day. There’s one upstairs over there.”
          
She pointed to a stairwell leading to the second floor of the Golden. Cap saw that the windows
which seemed to face the glacier. 
          
“You mean oneof those?” 
         
“If you like. I have plenty of space tonight.”
          
“One night,” Cap said as he pulled out a dollar coin and handed it to the woman.   “I’ll take
one with the view of the river and glacier.”
          
“Follow me,” she said, as she led him toward the covered stairwell.  The narrow wooden stairs
creaked under her heavy footsteps.   She pulled out a skeleton key and headed
down a very dim passageway.  It was almost too dark to see.   Then Cap heard her
insert and turn the key.
          
She pushed  the door open, flooding the hallway with light.  Inside a single window was partly
opened.  The pull shade was fully up.  Curtains hanging along both long edges
gently moved as a light breeze came through. On each side of the narrow room was
a single bed. Both sagged ever so slightly.  Each was made up with linen and a
woolen blanket. Behind the bed on the right was a narrow bureau with a mirror.
Behind the other bed was a washstand with a basin, pitcher and two tin cups.  A
single chair stood in front of the stand. The woman pointed to a small closet.
          
Cap threw his pack on the floor and walked over to the window.
          
“There’s theextra blankets.  Never know when you might need ‘em. The outhouse is out back.
So is the pump.  If you need any female company let me know. I’ve got a nice
selection. If I remember, you were partial to Bubbles.  I’ll send her up if you
like.”

The Golden

The Golden in the ghost town of McCarthy, 1955         --UAF Archives
          
“How do I find you, Mrs. Kennedy?”
          
“Oh, just ask anybody.  Just ask for Kate.  You’ll find me.  I’m always around here
somewhere.  You have a good evening, young man.  I’ll see that your friend
Johnny Gakona knows you’re here.”
         
The Madame quietly slipped into the darkness of the hallway and was gone. Cap pushed up the
lower pane of the window all the way.  It seemed almost dead out there. He
poured some water out of the pitcher and tasted it.

 
          This stuff tastes stale. No, it tastes dead.  Like muskeg
water, but worse.  Room smells old and musty
,
too.  This place really seems dead. Be glad to get out of here. I feel
trapped in here. Got to get out of here and find some real water. Eat later.


The sound of the shrill train whistle of No. 71, followed by the screeching of iron as the
wheels of all those cars began to move, caught his attention.  


         
Now that sounds alive. Wish I were going to Kennecott tonight.  It’s lonely in here.
I might be tempted to do something foolish just waiting for Johnny
I’m tired the water can wait.

          
Cap pulled his Hudson Bay blanket out of his pack sat on the narrow bed, which seemed
comfortable enough.  He pulled off his boots and tossed them in the direction of
the chair.  He three his heavy shirt toward the other bed, lifted his weary legs
onto the sagging mattress and pulled the potlatch blanket over himself.  He was
asleep almost immediately.
          
He found himself looking up at Chief Nicolai. 
          
“Grandfather, you’re still alive.”
         
Tsuuye, I stay close to my people.  You just can’t always see me.”
          
“Where are we?”
          
“Look around you.”
            
Cap was startled to find he was still in the room above the Golden.  Nicolai was sitting
on the empty bed three feet away.
          
Somehow the room seemed darker and even older.   The only sound he could hear was 
that  of the wind coming off the glacier.  He lifted himself up.  His  boots were on the
floor right where he’d kicked them off. His shirt was laying on the bed next to
Shee-ya, where he’d tossed it.  He pulled off his Hudson Bay blanket and
stood up.
          
“Look outside, Tsuuye.”
          
The view startled him.  The buildings across the street stared blankly back at him.  Most
had dirty, broken glass. In the direction of the railroad yard something seemed
to be missing.  Yes, that was it.  The entire group of buildings where the large
white drugstore building stood was gone.  Fireweed grew thick among charred
timbers where the heart of the town once stood. The distinctive railroad
warehouse with its diamond-shaped windows at the end of the siding was
missing.   So was most of the railroad trestle.  A few old pilings could be seen
sticking out of the gray, roaring water of the main channel.  The railroad water
tower at Clear Creek had also vanished.
          
“Grandfather, what happened out there?  The railroad and half the town is gone. Looks like a
ghost town.”
          
“It is a ghost town. Look at me.  I’m a ghost.  This is a ghost town. You
were right when you told Johnny that McCarthy would die.  You have seen it for
yourself.  This is the future which the white men will leave you--useless, empty
buildings.   Some of them gone completely.  No railroad.  No mine at Kennecott.
Just scars on the land.  Don’t listen to these white people.  They are not here
to stay.  They’re here to take and to spoil and then to leave.     

         
“Believe only in yourself and your own people.  Stay together no matter what happens.  If you
follow the white man too far you will be lost.  There are many devil spirits
among the white man. Learn from him, take what you can, but  remember.  White
man come and white man go.  They have no roots here.  We will always be
here.   What exists now because of the white man will fade away until there is
nothing left.  Nothing at all.   They will leave you destroyed as well unless
you heed me. Always remember who you are. Only as saghanni utsuuy can you
hope to survive.  You are of the Raven Clan--the Children of the Earth.”
          
“What about the Saghanni ggaay, Shee-ya?”
          
“You already know about the ravens.  They are here because of the curse. They only come 
when a spirit is about to pass on.  Sometimes it’s a human spirit.  Sometimes its the
spirit which lives in an object--like the white man’s old home.  Watch that they
do not come for you. They look like us, but they are not us.
          
“There is much left for you to do, Tsuuye.  Work with your sla’cheen. You will
both be lost otherwise.  It was meant that you would always work together.”
          
Cap reached toward Nicolai to touch him.  Nicolai faded into the darkness.
          
Cap jumped straight out of bed and fell off the edge.  His head hit the backpack, which
cushioned his fall.  His body hurt. The floor was cold and hard. He pulled
himself off the bare wood floor and looked outside.  Everything was in its place
as he remembered it when he walked into town earlier that day.

          
It was just starting to get dark.  People were finally coming out. He could see some of them
walking the dusty street below.   He took the water pitcher and headed outside
down the dark hallway and stairs toward the water pump, still not wearing either
his shirt or his boots. He was too upset to think straight.   At the bottom of
the stairs he found a firm, sun-warmed wooden sidewalk. 
          
He glanced across Shushanna Avenue where saw the double garage doors open and a 
model-T inside waiting to be serviced. The town appeared very much alive, though now
there was no one in sight.


July 4 Childens Race
July 4 Childrens' Sack
Race down Shushanna Avenue. In the distance is The Golden 
--Bruce Haldeman
          

Cap walked around to the back of the building.  The grass felt good as he swished through
it in his bare feet.  The warm wind blew gently on his bare back.  He knew he
was still alive.  He spotted the outhouse and then  found the well pump.  It
supplied fresh, icy-cold water almost instantly.  He took a long, refreshing
drink, then  hauled the full pitcher back up to his room. He downed two more icy
cups of the good-tasting water.

         
The Golden’s right downstairs. Think I’ll get dressed in my good shirt and have a 
real drink.   Maybe play some pool. Need to be around live people.  Any live 
people.  Too weird around here.

          
Cap had a special, fancy shirt he kept for going out.  Sometimes he liked to appear in
downtown Chitina looking well-dressed. He wanted to look good now.  He unpacked
the western-style wear and his bone choker, which he tied around his neck. It
had been given to him by his father.

           
Might want to take Kate up on the offer.  Will it be Bubbles tonight ? 
Have to look good,  just in case.

          
Cap was surprised to find Kate Kennedy sitting alone inside on one of the tall stools at
the bar.  The back bar featured a long plate-glass mirror. He saw an image of
himself which looked good.
         
“Have a seat young man.  My, don’t you look good!  Wish I were half my age  after seeing you
like this.  Bartender, let me buy the young man a drink.”
          
The bartender gave Kate a puzzled look.
          
“Are you sure that’s allowed?  After all, he’s Indian.”
          
“He’s an Indian, all right. And I’m a white woman. Where’ve you been, Jim.  This is the
Twentieth Century.  There’re no slaves anymore.  No inferior people.  Not even
us women are below you like you still want to believe. We ladies are every bit
your equal now. And don’t you forget it.  Besides, Indians just got the right to
vote. So pour the man a drink.  I believe he needs one.”
          
The bartender reluctantly poured a whiskey into a glass and pushed it toward Cap.  
Cap looked at Kate, not quite knowing what to make of the large lady.   “Thank you, but let
me buy you the next one, since you decided we’re all equals here. And you can
call me Cap.”
          
She looked back and smiled.  Cap still was not sure about that smile.  He felt like he was
looking at a she-devil when Kate smiled.
          
“Now that’s a gentleman I hear.  And a remarkably handsome one at that.  You do know that,
don’t you?  I size up men for a living.  You’re a real gem. Thankyou for the
offer young man, I accept.”
          
Cap turned around to view the pool table. No one else was in the room but Kate and the
bartender.  Kate understood what Cap wanted.


Young Cap
Young Cap and his father  Chief Goodlataw at a camp near Taral   --USGS photo
          
“You’re a player? So am I, ” Kate spoke up in her overbearing voice.

“Let’s see what you can do, sweetie.”
          
“You ever find Johnny?”
          
“Haven’t been down at the Row yet.  He’s got to be there.  You know how he likes that Rose,
sweetie.”
         
“Do I ever.  Call me Cap.”
          
He changed the subject.
          
“Small town, McCarthy. It ends very suddenly, just like Chitina.  So tell me Kate, why does
it seem so quiet around here--almost like a ghost town?”

         
“Well, sweetie, sometimes it does seem that  way.  Kennecott is still going strong, but the
Chisana boom died out, and all those promising claims along the Nizina never did
amount to much.  Only a few camps are operating out there.  Since Kennecott quit
expanding it’s not the same anymore.  We used to have workers down from Bonanza
and Jumbo and Motherlode and Green Butte all the time.  No longer.  Some
families have already left. Businesses have boarded up.  Not me.  I’m the spirit
of the town. I’ll be here to the end.  No one runs old Kate out.”
           
Cap took a sip out of the glass, then leaned over above the table to make his first shot. He
heard the door open behind him.
          
“Hello, Cap! Where you been?”
          
He turned around. It was Johnny. Rose was with him. She was almost over-dressed.  If it
was possible, she was wearing even more makeup and heavy perfume than before.
          
This time Cap hugged Johnny, much to Johnny’s surprise.
         
“What happened to you, Cap?  Something’s not right, is it?”


McCarthy Hotel fire

McCarthy Hotel fire: A fire like this one took out the McCarthy Drug Store block in 1941      --Dick Anderson
          
“Are we leaving tomorrow, Johnny?  There’s not much to do here and this place is beginning to
give me the creeps.”
          
“Have Kate find you a woman.  I see you’re dressed for it. Bubbles is still around. I didn’t see
you turn her down last time.”

Cap had only taken one shot of whiskey so far.  He reached to the bar to grab his glass, when
something caught his eye.  He couldn’t believe what he saw through the mirror. 
He whirled around to face the outside window. Sure enough, it was the lone
figure of Nicolai staring at him through the glass.  A raven stood on his
shoulder.  Cap dropped the cue stick he had been holding. Everyone else looked
in the direction of the window, but only Johnny appeared to be startled.
          
“Did you see that, Sla’cheen?”
          
Cap did not wait for an answer. He set the glass back on the bar and headed for the door.
The ghost of Nicolai, if that’s what it was, had vanished, as had the raven.

“Do what you want, Johnny.  I’m getting some sleep. I’m out of here tomorrow, whether you’re
ready or not.  Had enough of this town.”

Johnny let loose of Rose and followed Cap out the door onto the sidewalk.
         
“I saw him, too Sla’cheen.  He wanted me to see him.  Him and his raven. Where are you
staying?”
          
Cap pointed to his open window directly above.
          
“I’m sending Rose home.  I’m afraid after seeing Shee-ya I might want to get drunk.
I’d probably mess everything up if I did.  Especially after seeing him.
I’m staying up there with you, Sla’cheen.  I’ve had enough to drink,
already. Need to get out of here, too.”
          
“Rose won’t understand.”
          
“Yes she will. I paid her this time.  She said Kate needs the money. It’s all about the money.
I’m tired of it.  Don’t leave. Wait right here for me. I’m going up there with
you.”
          
“Rose, I’ll see you later.  No, don’t wait for me.  Just see you later.”
          
“You got room up there, Cap?”
          
“We’ll manage, Sla’cheen.  We always have.”


Chitina

Even Cap's hometown of Chitina would be considered by many to be a ghost town once the railroadpulled out in 1938.   

Chapter 36: "Cap's Vision of Nicolai," Pt 1



engine # 71

CRNW Mikado engine #71 in front
of Fireweed Mountain on the east approach to the Kennicott River trestle 
--McCarthy-Kennicott Museum

Sal Reed stepped down from the high cab of No. 71.  On the last run he had brought
in No. 73 and exchanged it for this one, as the 100-hour maintenance mark approached.
It had been another great day in the valley.  The winds were light and there was almost
no cloud cover.  The bright sun had caused the river to sparkle a multitude of
reflections into his face most of the way up.  But he did not mind. It added to
the dreamy effect of this absolutely wonderful valley.  Sal felt great today. 
Everything was working well for him.
         
The amount of in-going freight had finally started to diminish after a long run of thirteen
years.  Full inbound train loads had been the rule. Finally the loads were
smaller and less frequent.   He had been on this system from the very beginning
and had risen to the senior position.  Sal had the pick of assignments. 
        
 If his brother John had lived, John would have been senior to Sal.  John died in 
1913 when the rotary he was operating crashed through trestle 75B.  What was so ironic was
that on the way north, John’s rotary No. X-1 had been stopped on that very
trestle. John Reed decided to take advantage of the stop to drop the hot ashes
through the grate, even though it was against company policy to dump ashes on
the wood trestles due to the danger of fire. For reasons no one would ever know,
John ignored the policy.  On the return trip, he failed to see the thirty feet
of burned, missing trestle. John was crushed by No. X-1 when it crashed through
the trestle remains and landed deep in the ravine. The accident resulted from
his own carelessness.  But in a rare jury decision, his widow won a substantial
settlement in court anyway. 


Crane retrieving engine

A CRNW crane pulling a
wreck out of the water  --Cordova Museum
          

Sal shook his head.  He missed his brother and wished above all else that John 
could still be here to enjoy what Sal thought of as “God’s country.” 

           
            What a pointless tragedy.  I can’t believe you did that to us, John.

          
He walked back to take another look at his consist.  There were the usual thirty-five steel
flat cars of 100,000 pound gross capacity.  Four of them were loaded with milled
lumber.  There was a battery-powered locomotive bound for the mines on the fifth
car and a load of steel on the sixth.  The other cars were empty.  In front were
three outside-braced box cars.  The attached tags indicated full loads of
everything from oats to boxes of new clothes from Sears.

A fourth car, no. 288, was the stock car holding several dairy cows destined for Kennecott.  
Pullman combine no. 51 was directly behind the tender.  Sal decided it would be best to
break the load up and relay it all to Kotsina.  Then it could be reassembled for
the trip into Shushanna Junction. He turned to the stationmaster.
          
“We’ll break this up into two sections.  I’ll take the heavy  front end as one load, with the
pusher to  my rear, then return for all the empty flat cars.”
          
George nodded.  Usually they would send the coach car last, so the passengers  
wouldn’t be stuck at Kotsina waiting for the rest of the train.  However, there were 
no passengers today except Johnny and Cap, who were still considered railroad 
employees.
          
George would prevail on them to help with the train relay process.  He walked back 
to the depot to explain this to the two passengers.  Sal began powering up the engine
for the first run.   It was quite warm out so the engine required little time to
gain full pressure.  The first group of cars would be ready to leave soon. It
would be a quick process.
          
At the depot Cap sat with his father.
          
“Remember, you’re the son of the chief.  Do right. If you have a son, you will be chief
someday.  That’s our way.”
          
“I know, father.  I’ll follow our Indian way.  You know that.”
          
Johnny sat with his mother Helen, his sister Violet and her musher friend Abbey. 
Charlie sat on the other side of Cap.  Abbey had the dog Yew nee on a leash. 
If anyone could hold back this dog, it was Abbey.  She had a way with animals which 
baffled the men.  George walked up to Johnny and explained the situation. 
          
“You just help with this relay process to speed it all up, and I’ll owe you one.”
          
“You’ve always been fair with us, George.  But we’d do it anyway. We’re still part 
of the railroad.  Don’t send someone along you don’t need when
we’re there anyway.”
          
The train pulled out so smoothly, the two Indians in the combine hardly noticed.  Sal was
a wizard at the controls.
          
“Back to Kennecott.  Are we going to make this a habit, Sla’cheen?”
          
“It’s an interesting place to work. Something always different. What do you think? I know
you like the food.”
          
“I could get used to it. That was quite a party at Tom’s lodge.   What’d you think of it,
Johnny?” 
          
“I sure found a lot of female admirers.  Tom’s rose hip wine was not as good as he made it
sound, but it sure was strong.  The women seemed to like it, anyway.   I still
didn’t find any women I like as well as Rose.”
          
“Still on that Rose thing, are you Johnny? Am I going to have to drag you out of McCarthy
again?”  
          
The train pulled to a halt at Kotsina. The men jumped off the coach and waited.  Sal Reed
backed the loaded cars into the siding, where the two Indians uncoupled the load
from the engine.
          
“You guys come with me. Hop on.  There’s enough room here.  Ever ridden in one of these
backwards?  You might as well enjoy the run back to Chitina instead of waiting
around for nothing here at Kotsina.”
         
“This is going to be a great day. You’ll really like this.  Come on up, Cap.”


riding the cab

Riding the cab of a CRNW Mikado 
--Cordova Museum
          
Cap stepped up onto the high deck.  He could feel a sense of enormous power coming 
through the steel floor of the cab.  It was everywhere.  He felt the life which existed
within the massive engine. Now he was beginning to understand what Johnny must
be feeling. Whatever magic there was in these iron horses was beginning to
overtake him as well.


          This is . . . what is this I’m feeling?  It’s great, whatever
it is. I’m up here on this high deck and I love it.  No wonder Johnny’s such a
nut.  Must be contagious. Now this is a machine.

          
Cap would never speak those words.  But Johnny caught the look on his face, smiled and 
pointed at him.
          
“You’ve got the bug too, Cap.  I know it when I see it.”  He hugged Cap after saying that, much
to Cap’s surprise.   This was rare for the two of them, but both Cap and Johnny
were so caught up in the exhilaration of the moment that they could hardly
contain themselves.  Johnny was thrilled beyond belief that his sla’cheen
-- the person who invariably and inevitably ended up mattering the most in his
life was there to share the ecstasy of this ride with him. 
          
It was less than an hour later before the train was finally reassembled at Kotsina and ready
for the remaining run.  
          
“It’s one of those unusually great days out here, ”  Reed observed.
          
“It’s the kind of day a railroad engineer lives for.   You two might as well stay up front with
fireman and me.  Plenty of room.  Enjoy the trip.  The scenery is awesome from
up here as you’ve already observed. More so from the cab than anywhere else on
the train.”

Indeed it was.  The route included several long straight lines of track which enabled the huge
engine, running on track in near-perfect condition, to operate at very high
speeds. The excitement of having that  full sounding steam whistle blow so close
as the heavy Mikado rushed through the Chitina River valley was of a type
neither Cap nor Johnny had ever experienced.  Even the normally stoic Cap was
completely carried away by it all.   Ahead at the end of the first long stretch
was Strelna.  The water tank stood prominently on the right, but to left, a
depression filled with  blackened remains marked the spot where a two-story
lodge once stood only weeks before. 
          
A few minutes later the train reached the Kuskulana crossing.  The steel bridge,  together
with its wood trestle approaches, exceeded 700 feet.  The depth of the gorge
seemed even more pronounced from the locomotive cab.  Just beyond the gorge were
several long straight stretches which allowed the train to reach its full speed
of over sixty miles per hour.  
          
Cap could see indications of a small mining operation hanging along the sheer face of a cliff
wall on the eastern end of Crystalline Hill as the locomotive raced on by.  Soon
the red buildings of Chokosna Station were in sight.  A mining supply road led
into the hills from the depot.  The train made a brief mail stop and then
continued.
          
Minutes later the train reached the long curved Gilahina trestle, where it was necessary to
slow to about ten miles per hour as the rails followed the contour of the hill,
then entered the tall bridge.  Water barrels were placed on platforms every
hundred feet in event of fire due to hot ashes from the train. The train
followed yet another series of long, straight track sections into Crystal Lake.
A water tower stood at the small trestle crossing the creek.  Beyond was a
sawmill operation on Crystal Lake.  The train passed through without stopping,
heading into a final long run of track as it approached the Lakina River
trestle, which was near the beginning of Long Lake.  The train stopped to pick
up a load of vegetables from the farm.  This consisted mostly of carrots bound
for Kennecott. These were favored by the mules which provided tram power in the
Bonanza Mine on some of the levels.
          
Beyond the lake, the train entered higher country as it approached the west slope of
Fireweed Mountain. The approach into McCarthy was sometimes considered the best
part of this run, due to the view of Bonanza Ridge, Porphyry Mountain and the
Kennicott Glacier and river.


downtown McCarthy


View of downtown
McCarthy from the Kennicott River trestle: The taller white structure on
the left is the drug store. On the far right is the Golden Bar.  --Lulu
Fairbanks Collection, UAF
Archives
           
As the train approached Shushanna Junction, the sandy bluffs running along  the eastern bank
of the Kennicott River came into view.  Then the glacier and the long trestle
crossing.  Just beyond lay the very small town of McCarthy.  Cap immediately
noticed the two-story drug store marking the center of town and the silent
Mother Lode power plant at the southern end near the creek.

          I wouldn’t trade being here for anything. Nothing could
replace it, not even close, except maybe for our visit to Shee-ya when he told
us the raven story. What a thrill to share this ride with my sla’cheen Cap.  My
dearest friend ever.
 

          
Two very happy young men left engine No. 71 at the junction, carrying their bedrolls.  Cap had
also packed the usual camping gear, just to be on the safe side. He had the bulk
of the load strapped on his back.  As the two wandered into town, Cap noticed
that the old place seemed quieter than it was on their last summer visit. Two of
the businesses on the main street stood  empty.  No one was in sight.
         
“Seems odd around here.  I miss Kay-yew-nee.  It’s not right without him here, too. I’m
going in for a soda, Sla’cheen.”
          
“You know where I’m headed, Cap.  See you later.”
           
Cap wandered into the large drug store to find the soda fountain.  Outside Johnny had
continued on in the direction of the Row, apparently not caring that Cap was no
longer walking with him.  The feelings both had when they departed the train had
quickly changed as they entered the town.

Cap found a store that appeared to be equipped to handle a much larger town than McCarthy. 
To the rear was a row of post office boxes. A padded row of stools at the
counter seemed inviting.  Cap sat down, then looked around again. No sign of
life anywhere.  The place was huge, but there was no one in the heavily-stocked
store.


McCarthy Drug Store

The McCarthy Drug
Store on Shushanna Avenue       
--McCarthy-Kennicott Museum
          

The place was not that old, but there was something about it that made it feel ancient. Like
the place itself was alive. It was dead silent.  Nothing.  But there was an
unmistakable presence, and it was not friendly.  He began to feel like he
couldn’t breathe in there. Cap stood back up and quietly walked out the door and
into the sunlight, where he felt a sense of relief.
         
          Something wrong in that place.  Never going in there again.


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