05 November 2010

Ch 12, Pt 3: "Mary & Stephen Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier




Chapter 12, Pt 3, conclusion: "Mary and Stephen
Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier"

click on picture for
larger image: these pictures are the one which appear in the book for
this chapter.




1914 map

1914 Map showing the segment from Cordova (red
asterisk
) to Bremner (B). Other whistle stops: S = Sheridan, A=
Alaganik, F= Flag Point, H= Hot Cake channel bridge, K = Katalla
Junction, M= Million Dollar Bridge/ Miles & Childs Glacier, L =
Abercrombie Landing.  Click map for larger version.   
--Simpson Files





Hot Cake channel bridge

Hot Cake Channel bridge, with an unloaded ore train headed east toward
Kennecott   --Candy Waugan collection

Below: Consist #70 returns to Cordova   --Cordova Museum


incoming train





The 1,500-foot bridge contained four spans and headed in a northerly
direction, cutting a path between the nearby Childs Glacier to the west
and the more distant Miles Glacier beyond iceberg-filled Miles Lake to
the east. Miles Lake discharged a constant barrage of these icebergs
which calved off the distant glacier. These floated toward the bridge,
some of them sticking out of the water as much as twenty feet and often
striking the concrete icebreakers just upstream from the bridge. Other
pieces hit the bridge piers directly at up to twelve miles per hour
before entering the main channel under the 450-foot third span of the
bridge. Everything then flowed toward the 300-foot tall ice wall that
was Childs Glacier.

Because of its relatively close distance to the bridge, Childs Glacier
appeared to be the larger of the two. It was barely more than a
bridge-length away from the bridge itself. In reality, Miles was about
twice the size of Childs. The Copper River entered the ice-choked lake
from the north at a point about midway between the two glaciers. The
river undercut both glacier toes, causing glacial calving which was
spectacular to behold. The ice blocks which fell off weighed as much as
ten tons and caused tremendous waves. This is most noticeable at the
nearby Childs Glacier, where the falling ice sent huge waves of water
across the river in the direction of the river bank below the bridge. It
frequently beached the migrating salmon, attracting bears which had
found the glacial calving to result in a ready source of easy meals.
Those waves also threw up tons of sand, gravel and boulders. It was not
prudent to stand too close to the east bank of the river opposite the
face of Childs Glacier.



Childs Glacier calving
Childs Glacier
calving.  --Simpson Files



Childs Glacier tourists
Tourists at Childs Glacier  --Candy
Waugaman collection

Special No. 74 pulled short of the Million Dollar Bridge, stopping on
the south end, enabling the passengers to leave the train for a close-up
view of the glaciers. Mary chose to stay in the private club car. She,
like the others, was amazed at the beauty and massiveness of the 300
foot tall Childs Glacier with its thousands of feet of wall face, but
had no desire to step out into the wilderness which lay just beyond the
tracks. Even so, wild Alaska has its own way of taming even the most
jaded of its visitors. Mary could only gaze on at this spectacle in a
state of stunned disbelief and awe. At last she was beginning to
understand the attraction which this wild territory held for the great
men of action such as her husband.




I never imagined the greatness of this part of Stephen’s world.
It truly is magnificent. The work it must have taken to bring
this train way out here truly has to be a wonder. This really is
a superb, scenic train ride, so much more spectacular than the
Great Northern. He was right about that.




I have to admit, if only to myself, there really is something to
this Alaska. I had to see it for myself to believe it. Here I
am, further away from culture than I could have ever dreamed,
yet I’m actually enjoying this.  At least I will allow
myself to enjoy it for a few minutes. This reminds me of the
cruise through the Southeast waters. I’d never admit my sense of
awe and wonder to Stephen, though. He might think I’m slipping.

The car rocked as a gust coming down the canyon caught the car directly
on its long side. It was followed by an even larger gust that came
blasting through the area. The warmth of the car shielded Mary from the
iciness of the wind gusts.



MDB south side
Million Dollar Bridge   --E.B.
Schrock, 84-80-15N, UAF AK & Polar Regions archives


MDB aerial
Bradford Washburn aerial photo of the
Million Dollar Bridge looking west toward Childs Glacier and
showng the RR wye on the north side of the bridge.


A Native man, who was dressed in a heavily starched white uniform,
offered her some freshly brewed tea. She graciously accepted. Mary was
beginning to feel ashamed for the way she had treated the help on this
trip.



“My name is Mary Birch.”



“Yes ma’am, I know. I am the cook and sometimes also the waiter. My
young helper is out there with the guests in case any of ladies need
assistance stepping around the large rocks.”



“Are you an Eskimo?”



“No, madam. My people are Ahtna Indians. I’m from the Copper River.
We’re all Indians around here. No Eskimos except maybe near Cordova.”



“Oh. I’m sorry. I didn’t know. What is your name?”



“Tom Bell, madam.”



“Tom, it is good to meet you. You have a fine, pleasing smile and I like
your courteous service. Have you worked here long?”



“Almost from the beginning. I like the railroad, ma’am.”



Well, it’s been pleasant chatting with you, Tom. Could you find me some
playing cards?”



“Yes, ma’am.”



He skillfully poured the tea and then quietly departed. She turned in
the other direction toward the east. She was completely alone in the car
now. It was quite a distance across the ice-filled lake to the glacier.
It appeared to be nothing but bright white in that direction as far as
her eyes could see.



How unique. The bridge crosses between two glaciers. Where else
on earth . . ? I would never admit this to Stephen, but this is
the country which seems to suit him best. He seems so at peace
and happy out here. Too bad. Instead he’s got a high-bred,
sophisticated city girl. Maybe he should have just stayed up
here and married an Ahtna Indian, or even an Eskimo. Their
simple ways seem to fit him and his humble style only too well.



She quietly chuckled to herself at this piece of divinely tasteless bad
humor. She was beginning to feel better after several days of illness.


Except, of course he’s too big for even this country, and far
too arrogant to last long among these Natives. He needs my sense
of taste and style and European culture to fit his ruthless,
insatiable, power-hungry, aggressive nature. Yes, that’s why I
married him
.



The party had enough of the bone-chilling gusts. The cold wind was
causing some of the men and women to develop ear-aches. They began
re-boarding the train very quickly after that second large gust almost
tore the tied-down large-brimmed hats off of some of the women. The men
were able to retrieve theirs. It looked pleasant out there from the
warmth of the luxury coach, but the winds were most definitely building
up.




Stephen found Mary happily playing poker against Tom Bell while sipping
on some tea. She was even humming to herself. As soon as Stephen entered
the room, Tom stood up and left.

Birch directed the train to move to the wye-siding on the north end of
the bridge, away from the open area over the center of the bridge which
was in the direct path of the wind. The party would enjoy a gourmet
lunch prepared by Tom Bell before proceeding on to Chitina.



Mary looked up at Stephen from her table and smiled for the first time
since they had left Juneau.



“Would you and the guests care for a cup of tea before lunch, dear? The
tea is very hot after those cold winds you must have found out there. In
here it’s simply delightful amid all this spectacular glacial scenery.”



Stephen was taken aback. Maybe this trip could be salvaged after all,
for Mary was finally adjusting. Stephen and his male guests lit cigars
and enjoyed the tea while the cold gusts pounded at the large
plate-glass windows, rocking the coach ever so gently. The guests
relaxed to a full view of a wild Alaskan panorama which would never
again be duplicated once the Copper River and Northwestern Railway ended
its relatively brief life. But that was still twenty-two glorious years
away. The greatest days of the railroad and the mines which it served
lay just ahead. Stephen was optimistic The reports he received from
Stannard showed that this had been the best year of copper production
ever. His copper mines had no end in sight.



Childs Glacier excursion train


A Childs
Glacier Tourist Train "Photo Special" 
--UAF,
Frederick Mears, 84-75-387

“Gentlemen, a toast. We have carved a copper empire out of this
wilderness. The treasures of Alaska are ours for the taking. Everything
is paid for, including the steamship line, the railroad, the mines and
mill. It’s all profit now. What a glorious future lies ahead for
Kennecott!”



F.A. Hansen and the other men stood up in response. Hansen responded.



“May this, the honeymoon trip of Stephen and Mary be a most memorable
occasion worthy of the great man who has made all of this possible.”



In those early days when everything on the railroad and in the mines was
new and worked well, the general feeling was that Stephen Birch had
indeed created an Alaskan copper empire miracle which would go on
forever. Over a million dollars worth of copper was crossing the docks
at Cordova every month with no end in sight, but the edges of Stephen’s
far-flung empire, built on an old notion which mirrored the general
western attitude which so unthinkingly supported the outdated concept of
American Manifest Destiny, would soon begin to fray, unravel, and
finally crumble.

In the headiness of the moment, every one of the elite members on board
the Kennecott conveniently forgot that the route of the CRNW Railway had
already been rejected as the official railroad to Fairbanks in favor of
a much more antiquated system out of Seward known as the Alaska Central
Railroad. The easy access to the Alaska Syndicate’s Bering River coal
fields, which would have guanateed the relatively inexpensive operation
of the railroad, had similarly been denied. Most significant of all, the
Kennecott engineers were not nearly as optimistic about the longevity of
the mines as were the board of directors.




CRNW observation car
The
observation car "The Kennecott" in 1916.  --Candy
Waugaman Collection



What looked like a multi-purpose railroad made up of both passengers and
freight with a guaranteed bright future was only an elaborate mining
railroad which dead-ended at the head of what was effectively an
enormous box canyon lined with ice. The railroad ended in the middle of
nowhere along the side of a dying glacier. That’s the way it would
remain, for that was the ultimate fate of the Copper River and
Northwestern Railway that it would never go far beyond the shadow of
Uk’eledi.




Mariposa on the rocks:  Perhaps the most
fitting symbol of Mary Birch's disastrous trip to Alaska was the wreck
of the S.S. Mariposa--their cruise ship to Alaska-- only a few months
after the ill-fated honey moon trip.
.


Continue with



Ch 12, Pt 2: "Mary & Stephen Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier



Chapter 12: Mary and Stephen
Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier

click on picture for
larger image: these pictures are the one which appear in the book for
this chapter.



Cordova RR depot

Cordova depot area after RR abandonment
--Cordova Museum



Cordova RR depot





 Below: A Miles & Childs Glacier excursion train leaves Cordova 
--Cordova Museum




Cordova excursion train



Below: Cordova RR yard with the town site in distance:   --Laurie
Nyman collection




Cordova RR yard area








The train left Cordova in an easterly direction, following a relatively
flat glacial out-wash for the first twenty miles, crossing many small
streams before it reached the foothills south of Sheridan Glacier. It
followed along the hills until reaching the first crossing of the Copper
River at Flag Point, CRNW mile 27. This was a complex bridge set-up,
consisting of a series of wooden trestle approaches connecting nine
narrow steel spans. The longest of these spans was 300 feet. This is the
area of heavy winter winds that approached 100 miles per hour, causing
snow drifts high enough to completely bury entire trains, as had
happened in the past. The five days in Cordova were mostly sunny, as was
this day. The ten mile-wide delta with its countless ducks and other
birds seemed to extend almost forever in the glimmering rays which
reflected back off the long expanses of partly-submerged lowlands
covered with thick marsh weeds.





RR tangent near Cordova
RR tangent east of Cordova   --B.Bragaw
Collection, 85-108-12, UAF AK & Polar Regions



Flag Point bridge
Flag Point Bridge, CRNW MP 27   
--Cordova Museum



Once it crossed the bridges at CRNW mile 27, the train began heading
north. It was far enough away from the shore to enable a good view of
the southern edge of the Chugach Range. Then the train passed the steel
bridges at Round Island, CRNW mile 34. These crossings consisted of a
200 foot span extending to a sand bar, then a wooden trestle which
bridged the bar that extended to two more 200-foot steel spans. Now it
was only a few miles to the Million Dollar Bridge.





Round Island
An excursion train
approaches the Round Island bridge on the Copper River delta on
the return to Cordova   --UAF,
Frederick Mears, 84-75-382






Ch 12, Pt 1: "Mary & Stephen Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier



Chapter 12, Pt 1: "Mary and Stephen
Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier"

click on picture for
larger image: these pictures are the one which appear in the book for
this chapter.



Cordova
Downtown Cordova circa
1930  --Laurie Nyman Collection

Locomotive no. 74 was the fifth and last of the series of great
engines of the Mikado class type purchased to upgrade Stephen’s ore
train fleet. The CRNW had no 100-ton crane at the wharf, which was the
minimum capacity needed to off-load the 95-ton locomotive. Tidal
fluctuations at Cordova allowed an alternative means to deal with so
large a piece of rolling stock cargo.

The ship was kept in position until the tide lowered the reinforced deck
to the same level as the dock. While the ocean level at the dock dropped
the necessary twenty-two feet, the men installed rails from the engine
to the edge of the ship on top of heavy planking. The engine was already
sitting on rails bolted to planking. It had been loaded into place at
Seattle using a large crane, which made the setting of the engine into
place an unusually difficult feat.

Yet there it sat, still heavily tied
into place, still sitting comfortably on those seventy-five pound rails
just as it had when it was so carefully dropped into place.
The men ran temporary rails to the point on the dock where they would
meet with the ship, running past the dock’s edge eight feet so that
there would be no joint between the ship and the dock. The railroad
workers joined the temporary rails at the critical moment when the tide
level was perfect for the transfer.
CRNW engines #70 thru 74 were
the same series and were used primarily as ore-haulers



By then, the tie-downs were removed and the engineer had the locomotive
steamed up and ready to move. He stayed with the engine to ensure that
the steam pressure and water levels remained just right for moving the
massive locomotive under its own power. When the moment came, the men
performed a final alignment of the rails and bolted them together. The
foreman signaled the engineer and Dusty pull the reverse handle,
allowing the engine to creep forward. The engine had been loaded so that
it would point toward the dock, given the most likely way the ship would
approach the wharf. The extremely heavy, self-powered load departed the
ship with considerable creaking through the rails, the ship and the
dock. The stevedores ensured that the ship could not dip because they
had temporarily secured it tightly against the dock. It was imperative
that the engine not tip at all. It left the ship smoothly.



Stephen Birch and his party watched the entire procedure. He had asked
the company to alert him when the tide was in the right position. His
party arrived in a horse-drawn carriage owned by the hotel.

The engine rolled onto the dock without a hitch to a loud round of
applause. The loud whistle reverberated as the engine moved off to the
eleven-bay roundhouse for a final check.



Mogul No. 102 was the back-up assigned to Stephen’s private train. At
eighty tons, it was considerably smaller than the Mikado which had just
arrived. With its six large drive wheels, the engine could pull a small
consist in excess of sixty miles per hour over most of the line. The
mogul was ideal for Stephen’s private train, but it would not be used.
Stephen wanted to use the newest and proudest, if an inanimate object
could be described that way, of the great CRNW engines. He left no doubt
to Superintendent Hansen that he wanted his private train headed by the
mammoth No. 74. So it would be.






Cordova Roundhouse
11-bay
roundhouse at Cordova,circa 1915 --Cordova Museum



Cordova Roundhouse 1943
Cordova roundhouse during  its last
days in 1943 when the U.S. Army was using the facility--Cordova
Museum

On the day the engine was ready, Stephen was at the turntable to watch
No. 74 pull out of the bay onto the turntable. A worker started the
powerful electric motor which swung the huge engine around until it was
lined up with the exit rail. No. 74 blasted its whistle and rumbled off
the wooden turntable deck.

The crew linked a combination baggage and passenger car behind the
tender and then added “The Kennecott” to the rear. All was ready for the
train trip into the great interior over the “Route of the Marvelous
Scenic Wonders.”



In 1916 the CRNW was still the only standard gauge railroad entering
interior Alaska, though the new Alaska Railroad would soon be operating
a much larger line out of Seward to Ship Creek and beyond. The first
passenger cars would travel the line from Seward to the new town of
Anchorage in October. The government-built railroad would ultimately
reach Fairbanks in mid-July, 1923--seven years after the Birch honeymoon
trip. The choice of the government to build the railroad out of Seward
instead of purchasing the existing CRNW and using the Cordova terminal
guaranteed the end of the CRNW when the mining engineers declared
Kennecott’s interior copper mines to be exhausted in 1938.



Yet in the summer of 1916 it appeared that the CRNW was a permanent
railroad which would last almost forever. In the few years since the
railroad first opened its line to the Bonanza Mine the CRNW had filled
in many of the long trestles which crossed the expansive Copper River
delta with tens of thousands of cubic yards of gravel fill. Permanent
steel bridges existed at CRNW mile 27, 34, 49 and 144. The railroad met
high engineering standards and was considered a first-class system at
least as far as CRNW mile 131, which was the Chitina depot.



The consist left Cordova after five days instead of the two which
Stephen had planned because Mary claimed to be too ill to travel. By the
time Mary decided she was ready to travel, she was becoming quite
unpopular with the rest of the party.



Excursion train leaves the wharf




The excursion train leaves the Cordova wharf  
--Cordova Museum



Continue
with Ch 12, part 2,  "Mary and Stephen Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier"



04 November 2010

Ch 11, Pt 2: "Mary Storms into Alaska"










Chapter 11: "Mary Storms 
into Alaska
,"
  pt 2


click on picture for
larger image: these pictures are the one which appear in the book for
this chapter.







Kennecott HQ in NYC
Cordova Wharf in the 1930s  --Laurie
Nyman Collection




They stood at the edge of the ship’s rail looking down at the dock. The
skies were overcast and a light rain fell. A warm, mild wind blew
gently. The main storm had moved on, leaving gradually clearing summer
skies. Below them were steel rails which extended close to the berth. An
observation car was backed up to the ship. In front of the coach, facing
away from the ship, was mogul engine No. 102, quietly puffing steam and
ready to pick up the guests and move on.


“Look, dear. That’s another special private coach down there. They fixed
it up just for us and named it The Kennecott.”


“What? Another Kennecott?”


“Maybe my company lacks imagination, but the staff means well. They
fixed this one up for us to make our run up to the real town of
Kennecott. We’ll have a nice, pleasant trip into the Copper River
valley. You’ll love it. The private car is waiting to take us into town.
In a few days, we’ll ride it up the rails. We have a special staff for
it right here.”






Abandoned coaches at Cordova
CRNW coaches
abandoned at the Cordova roundhouse in 1943. On the left is
Coach No. 100, "The Kennecott."  --Cordova Museum

The coach on the left was the original
business car for the CRNW Railway, later converted to a dining
car, and finally an observation car.



“Stephen, I thought that the first Kennecott looked plain. This one
looks like an ordinary railroad car--and it’s wood, not steel. How
quaint. I don’t like quaint. Is that all they have?”


“That’s the superintendent’s personal car. He had it converted just for
our personal use. It’s very comfortable and it has a nice ride. I know.
I’ve been on it before. You’ll be fine, Darling.”


“Why’d you have to drag that big locomotive along with us?”


“Number 74? It’s the one which will pull us up the line. Great, isn’t
it?”


“Stephen, if you drag me along on this trip of yours, I’ll never forgive
you.”


“Well, try to forgive me, Mary, because we’re both going. We leave for
Chitina in two days. We’re committed and that’s that.”


The couple walked down the gangplank like royalty, arm-in-arm, smiling
and waving at the small crowd. The appearance was impressive, leaving no
hint of the growing discord which was developing between Stephen and
Mary.


Mary smiled and pretended she was happy to be in Cordova. Stephen was
satisfied with the deceptive appearance. Mary was well-practiced in
that. They entered the coach from the open deck at the rear. Stephen’s
aid Dermot helped Mary onto the high step from above, while Stephen
pushed from below.


“That’s a most undignified way to enter a coach, Stephen.”






Cordova Wharf Train
CRNW passenger train backed up to the
Cordova wharf   --Candy Waugaman collection


“I’m sorry, dear. It’s just built that way. Look around you.”


The coach had over-sized plate-glass windows which greatly enhanced the
viewing while creating a warm, bright atmosphere. The rear observation
and dining room was tastefully furnished, right down to the the
light-red oak wood finish. The chairs were the plush red velvet which
had become standard in the CRNW coaches, except these were of a higher
grade and were far more comfortable. The high ceiling boasted ornate
chandeliers. It was not up to New York City standards, but it pleasantly
surprised and pleased Mary.


“Stephen, I believe this will do nicely. Plush-frontier ornate decor,
how impressively different. Yes, this will do. I can live with this.”


The other women of the party boarded behind Mary. All sat in the lounge
that had been carefully, tastefully, and expensively designed to display
in a slightly understated way the power and even majesty that was the
company which was best embodied by Stephen Birch himself.


The tracks ran along a curved trestle above the ocean water. When it
reached the shore the train slowed and then stopped at a small depot.



“We’re here, Mary. A wagon will be there waiting to pick us up at the
station. The Windsor is only a few blocks away.”


The hotel was as close to a luxury-class accommodation as one could find
in Alaska in those days. Mary was not impressed, but it would have to
do. This time, since she was still feeling the ill-effects of the ocean
voyage and was not up to her usual impossible self, she kept her
thoughts to herself. She would have plenty of time later to make up for
it.



 




Windsor Hotel



Windsor Hotel
in Cordova  --Van Cleve Collection





 








Cordova 1910


1910 Map of
Cordova  -- click for enlarged view   --Simpson
Files



 
Continue with

Chapter 12: "Mary and Stephen Birch Arrive at Childs Glacier"







 

Ch 11, Pt 1: "Mary Storms into Alaska"










Chapter 11: "Mary Storms 
 into Alaska"
, pt 1


click on picture for
larger image: these pictures include the ones which appear in the book for
this chapter.










S.S. Mariposa
The SS
Mariposa, 3.158 tons, built 1883, purchased by Alaska Steamship
in 1911, and wrecked in 1917.
  --UAF, B.Bragaw
Collection, 85-108-116
Mary realized she was going to be sick. Really
sick. The trip to Seattle had been pleasant enough. The S.S. Mariposa
made it all the way to Juneau on relatively calm seas. It rocked gently
but not violently. Then the Alaska Steamship passenger liner entered the
open waters of the Gulf of Alaska. The seas become so turbulent that
Mary could hear the whirring sound of single propeller as it momentarily
left the water before the see-sawing of the ship pulled the bow high
into the air, submerging the stern. The ship also began rocking sideways
much more than she would ever have imagined possible.

 


We may all die here.
Forget the others. I may die on this cursed thing. Who cares?
Anything’s better than this. I’m sick, sick, sick, and I want
off of this tub . .
.






What began as an exciting honeymoon excursion culminating in a trip on
the Alaska  Steamship vessel and a train ride into the Copper River
valley was looking increasing like just another one of Stephen’s
business trips. He had taken it upon himself to make all the
arrangements without consulting her. At the time, it all seemed
acceptable to Mary. She was used to her father making all the important
decisions in her life. It was he who had first introduced her to
Stephen.


She first met the man at an extravagant ball in New York City on an
excursion paid for by her father Rufus. Mary was completely taken in by
his quiet charm. She wanted a sophisticated, but well-heeled gentleman.
It would be even more ideal if the suitor was from New York City or
Boston or some other city of culture. After all, she was a debutante of
high social upbringing. Her father, Rufus Rand, headed Minneapolis Gas
Light Company, which placed her high in the elite social circles. She
wanted a man of considerable physical attraction who had the right
background and stature. That wasn’t too much to ask.

Stephen had no blue-blood. He was not a Rothschild or an Astor. Although
Birch’s best man was a Havemeyer and one of his ushers was a
Rockefeller, Stephen’s parents were of humble origins. But relative
unknown though he was, he nevertheless headed that large copper company
and therefore he had power. With the power came wealth and status. He
was tall and attractive. He was from the wrong family, but two out of
three would have to do.






Stephen Birch, Kennecott Copper Corporation


Stephen only recently made his name by virtues of his wild successes in
the copper mining business of Alaska. His fortune originated from some
very far distant and ice-encrusted place suitable only for the very
hardy or foolish. Or, worse yet, the very crude. Mary was not crude. She
was refined and sophisticated. She went to great lengths to let everyone
know that.

 

How could I have ever let
Stephen talk me into this trip. Why not New York, or Miami. Or
Paris? But Alaska? Eskimos and igloos. Dirty crude prospectors.
No fine exotic food. Dumpy frontier hotels. No culture. No
class. Yeck! If I live through this, Stephen will pay, I swear.




They left New York City in a specially outfitted Pullman private car
built to Stephen’s specifications. The car was comfortable but not
ornate by east coast standards. Stephen liked some of the trappings of
power, but he shied away from the ostentatious. On the contrary, he
showed all the modesty and humility which one would expect from a man
born of common people, much to Mary’s distress.


Someone in the company named the Pullman coach The Stephen Birch,
but Birch re-named the observation car The Kennecott. Birch was a
background player. He did not like to see his name stand out in public.
Mary wanted all the status she could gain through her new husband’s
position. She did not learn until later that the Kennecott had briefly
existed as The Stephen Birch. She was not pleased to learn of the change
of the name, which she through Dermot, one of her husband’s aides. The
change of name robbed her of a small measure of status which was, after
all, her entitlement as wife of the president of Kennecott.


At least the ride through Great Northern Railroad country had been
spectacular. All the accompanying wedding guests were stunned by the
sights along the mountainous part of the route. Mary was more concerned
with what opera would be playing at the theater in Seattle when they
reached that west coast port city. Seattle has been known as a center of
cultural activity since well before the turn of the century. Mary was at
best mildly impressed. No opera was playing when they arrived. Mary
found the Broadway theater production to be vulgar. On the other hand,
she found that the Olympic Hotel was up to the level of catering and
luxurious appointments she required. The entire wedding party remained
in Seattle several days while Alaska Steamship completed the outfitting
of the S.S. Mariposa for this elite wedding party. The steamship company
knocked down walls to convert five rooms into one elegant stateroom for
the new high-society couple. At the same time, arrangements for hauling
the last of the great Mikado Brooks engines were being completed. This
required considerable re-decking for the heavy, Cordova-bound load.

 

I would think they’d have
been ready for us by the time we arrived at Seattle. What’s
wrong with these people that they don’t know how to properly
plan ahead? Surely they could have used another ship to carry
that huge engine. What were they thinking? Stephen needs to fire
someone for such incompetence and disregard for our comfort
.






The trip north through the Queen Charlotte Islands and Southeast Alaska
had been stunning. As is typical in this part of the Northwest, the
mid-summer seas were calm. Mary failed to appreciate the sunshine which
followed the honey-mooners as far as Juneau. Such good weather over the
West Coast for three days in a row is rare in this part of the world at
any time. The clear skies revealed a delightful area of prime old forest
land of intense rugged beauty. Even Mary was impressed. She found
viewing such forested fjords in the Alexander Archipelago from the
luxurious comfort of an Alaska Steamship liner to be thrilling. A unique
sense of luxury she never before experienced came with the passage
through the panhandle of Alaska while the snappy waiters did their best
to cater to her every demand. She had many demands.


Yet Mary’s relative good mood did not extend to the help who had to
serve her. The staff learned to dislike Mary intensely. She proved to be
excessively difficult to please while being only too quick to criticize.
Everyone from the captain on down was only too well aware that Stephen
Birch controlled the company which owned Alaska Steamship. The staff was
accustomed to serving middle-class people. This voyage was more like
entertaining royalty. The staff was barely up to the job of continually
anticipating and carrying out Mary’s many demands.






SS. Alaska in Wrangell Narrows


An Alaska Steamship liner, the S.S.
Alaska, works its way through the Wrangell Narrows, north of
  Ketchikan, S.E. Alaska. Alaska Steamship Company was a wholly-owned subsidiary of Kennecott Copper Corporation. 


The cruise was not a charter, despite the considerable work done to
accommodate the wedding party. Other paying passengers were aboard. The
ship had a scheduled stop in Juneau. Stephen and the party of
upper-class men and company officials wanted to visit the Treadwell Mine
across the channel and the new Alaska-Juneau Mine This was of no
possible interest to Mary. She was left to her own devices at the
Baranof Hotel, where she was free to terrorize the hotel staff while
Birch and his mining cronies visited those enormous gold producing
operations. Stephen was beginning to appear to be more interested in
business than he was in their marriage. Mary’s predisposition against
Alaska was only strengthened by Stephen’s side trips to those mines.


When the ship left the archipelago and entered the Gulf of Alaska it
encountered a storm which mercilessly pounded the vessel. The 95-ton
locomotive on the reinforced front deck caused the ship to be
excessively top-heavy. It began to toss and roll dangerously. Mary was
sick and felt compelled to leave her stateroom for the outside rails.
She was not the only one, but no one else’s problems mattered to Mary.


Finally the Mariposa steamed itself out of the storm and quietly slipped
into the Cordova harbor, but Mary’s insides told her the ship was
rocking. It would be days before she felt well enough to continue.






Cordova Wharf
Cordova Wharf in 1920 
--Van Cleve Collection


“The trip was ghastly, Stephen. I thought I’d die out there. It looked
like the whole ship would come apart or tip over.”


“We were really worried about losing No. 74. We were afraid it’d break
loose.”


“Number 74? Stephen, I, your brand-new wife nearly dies on our honeymoon
voyage and all you’re concerned about is an engine? All you care about
are your machines and your mines. Why’d I ever marry you? Some husband.”


“Mary, calm down. I know you didn’t mean that. I’m sorry about that
storm and how sick and scared you must have been.”


“I was frightened to death, Stephen. If I want that kind of experience,
tie me down to the big roller coaster at Coney Island. And sick, I’ll be
sick for days.”


“Maybe coming to Alaska for the honeymoon wasn’t the best idea I ever
had.”


“Stephen, I don’t know why I ever let you talk me into this trip. You
know how little I care for wilderness or mining--especially in this
ice-bound Alaskan wilderness of yours. I don’t feel like traveling in
anything now that I’m off that cursed ship of yours. That horrible,
heavy engine you had to bring along caused that ship to sway wildly all
over the place. I don’t care if I ever ride another train again.”


“Darling, Mary, what am I going to do with you? We’re here. We’ve
arrived in Cordova. I’m sorry that the storm was so violent. Didn’t feel
so well myself. Most of us got sick from it, but we still have that
train trip ahead of us. You’ll love it. It’s far better than the much
longer Great Northern run we just took.”

“I don’t want to go, Stephen. If you must go, then go without me.”


“Darling, Earl Stannard built us a special honeymoon cottage at
Kennecott. We have to go. It wouldn’t be right not to go now. You have
to come along. You can do it, Mary, you’ll be all right.”


“Stephen, I’m not going.”


“Mary, you are my wife, and you are going and that’s that. It’s time you
grew up. You are the wife of a man who heads an important American
corporation. Now act your part. You know I do everything I possibly can
to see to your every need and desire. Besides, Alaska is not ice-bound.
It’s not even that rugged anymore, either. Not like it used to be. We
built a modern railroad and transformed the Copper valley region into an
extension of our world-wide copper empire.”

 
From 1915 until the 1950s, the Kennecott corporate
offices were here in the Equitable Insurance Building, NYC


That must have been what
attracted me to this man. It’s his incredible arrogance.
Stephen, we might just be the ideal couple after all. I love
arrogance in a man if its backed up by power and status. That’s
you.