07 February 2011

Chapter 33: "Billiard Hall Conversation," Pt 1


Chitina billiards hall
Saloon, card room
& billiards hall at Chitina
     
     
“Your move, Johnny.” 
        
Cap set his stick down and moved over to one of the large,
south-facing windows.   The thermometer showed no mercury.
        
“It’s been showing colder than forty-below for over a week now. 
Probably closer to sixty-below.  We should be up on the hill in the
cabin where it’s warmer.”
        
“But boring.  Need to get out of there once in a while.”
        
It was dark outside, but the clear skies allowed a full  moon to
bathe the small cluster of frontier style buildings in an eerie glow. 
It was still and silent. At the railroad yard was a fully loaded ore
train waiting for the locomotive to be pulled out of the shop so the
load could be run to the Alaska Steamship wharf just beyond Cordova. 
The lights in the depot building were off but the locomotive repair barn
lights were running as usual.  Mikado No. 73 was pulled inside for some
type of repair before continuing south.  The Siberian lifted himself up
to look out the window as well, but seeing nothing of interest, padded
over to the billiards table.

        The air near the glass pane was uncomfortably cold.  The edges
of the glass had iced and frosted toward the center.  Frost had formed
around the door, making it difficult to close.  Cap was keeping the fire
in the pot-belly stove going.  He had brought in a large load of wood
for Smitty when the weather was much warmer.  He opened the door and
shoved another eighteen-inch log into the hole, then slammed the iron
door shut. The pile was diminishing rapidly.

        Johnny made his shot, took a shot of whiskey and positioned
himself for a follow-up.  

        “When are you returning to your trap line, Cap?”

        “I’m not going anywhere until this cold spell lifts.  I’m
staying with you up there in the warm cabin we built for Shee-ya. 
Too cold and dangerous to be out there away from a fire.  When it warms
up I’ll pick up some supplies on Dad’s credit at the Cash Store.  Credit
at the Cash Store.  Sounds strange, doesn’t it?”


Main Street Fire
The Fire which
took out the Overland Hotel in 1917: Across the street (left)
was the Chitina Cash Store.  --Photo courtesy of Bruce
Haldeman 
        “It’s just how we have to live, Cap.  Ever since the white man
brought his first trading post he brought us credit.  What can you do
when you can only get cash a few months out of a year?”

        “Live off the land ?”

        “That’s funny, Cap.  But you know how it really is around here. 
Right. Live off the land.  Good one.”

        “Dad still does.”

        “But you bring him goods from the Cash Store on credit.”

        “Oh, yes.  You got me there, Sla’cheen.”

        “He’s not out on his trap line up the Tonsina, is he?”

        “Dad?  He has more sense than that.  He seems to know when the
weather is about to turn cold.  He always returns home until it breaks. 
Said he spent too much time out in it when he was a kid.

        “How is your trap-line going, Johnny?   I haven’t taken as many
pelts as last year, and that was less than the year before.”

        “It’s been the same up the Kotsina .  I’m beginning to think
we’ve trapped out this whole  area.  We may have to look to moving or
extending the trap-lines.”

        “Oh, I don’t know, Johnny.  It has always been up and down.  Dad
is getting too old to change, and he relies on me to keep it alive.  We
seem to be in the right area.  The lynx and fox travel through, all
right.  So do the wolves. There just aren’t as many of them right now.”

        “Do you think it’s improved any down by Taral since we moved
away?”

        “Maybe, but that’s spirit country over there.  Dad doesn’t want
to go back. Says it’s engii. Too many kay-yee-geh there. 
Maybe even Chaw-glith-tah-he himself.”

        “The devil?  He really believes that ?”

        “They made bad medicine over there.  Remember the Saghanni
Ggaay
.  They only appeared after the curse of Nicolai.  The ravens
were always there with Nicolai when he lived alone.  It’s best not to
disturb what is there.  We should never go back.  Dad says some of us
may return there as spirits.  He says Nicolai is over there.  Nicolai
will never rest.”

        “I guess I should have asked if you really believe that,
Cap.”

       
“You don’t ? You will live to believe it, Sla’cheen.”

Main Street
4th of July on Main Street, Chitina with the Fairbanks Saloon on the right.  --Cordova Museum
       
Johnny missed his shot and sat down on the bench by the window. 
He turned around and looked out toward the cold bright moon.

        “Speaking of kay-yee-geh, there’s Spirit Rock over there,
with Spirit Mountain behind it, looking just as ghostly as anything I
can imagine.  This is strange country we live in, Cap.  
      
        “But back to the business.  Maybe it’s just that I’m not as
interested in  trapping as I used to be.  Brother Charlie is still there
to help, so we keep it alive, but I was really let down when Rose told
me she did not want to leave McCarthy to come here.  She says this place
is too primitive.”

        “Maybe that should tell you something, Johnny.”

        “I notice you tend to call me Johnny whenever I mention Rose,
but otherwise I’m Sla’cheen. I suppose that should tell me
something.”

        “Rose would take you away from us forever.  I don’t want that. 
If you want to be with her, you will have to give up Chitina and the
rest of us, too.  Then what happens when the mine runs out?  Do you
really think there will be a McCarthy after that?  You know what will
happen.  What always happens?  The white men take their precious metals
and they run.  All those gold rush towns from twenty-five years ago that
were all over the territory--how many would you say are still real
towns, Johnny?  There aren’t many left now.  McCarthy won’t last
either.  It will become history just like most of those others.”

        “But Cap,  McCarthy is not a gold rush town.  Yes, it serves May
Creek and Chititu and Dan Creek, Chisana and that area, but it’s there
because of Kennecott.  And Kennecott is there to stay.  Look at that ore
train out on the tracks.  It’s loaded fully, just as it has been for
years.  There will be one tomorrow and the day after that and the day
after that.”

        “Yes, Johnny, it makes you wonder about that deal grandfather
made.  But it can’t keep going on like this.  I know everything up there
looks like it will be there forever, but I can sense that it’s nearing
its end. The people there just don’t know it yet.”

        Johnny stared at Cap for awhile, contemplating Cap’s words. He
sat down on the bench near the window. Then he jumped back up.  It was
too cold close to the window.  He moved over to the stove and shoved in
another stick of wood.  He pulled up a wooden captain’s chair and sat
down right in front of the fire.
         

Chapter 32: "Return to Chitina," Pt 2



Chitina view 1
Chitina in the
1920s    --Rita Hatch

 “Hello there, Cap. I’m so glad to see how well you took care of my Johnny.  I
want to go with him, but I can’t leave for a few days.  Can you stay
here ?”

Oh, no.  Just what I feared.  Great Creator, save me from this one.  I
want to go home.
Not stay
here.  Not this place.

“How about if I take the dog and continue on with the coffin back to
Chitina?  That way you two can come down when you’re ready instead of
having me around to get in your way.  Come back when you’re ready.”
         
“Cap, are you sure?”
         
“Johnny, I want to go home. Maybe see Shirley. Stay with Dad. Go
trapping.”
          
“Okay, Cap.  Take the dog.  Mom will be waiting at the depot.  Let her know
I’ll be home soon.”
          
“We’ve been together a long time, Cap.  This last run was the most thrilling
ever.  But we knew this day would be coming.  I know you’ve been 
anxious to get back to your own life at Tonsina. You know I’ve been
wanting to get together with Rose.” 
          
Johnny extended his hand.  Cap reached up, still sitting on the platform next
to the dog, and shook Johnny’s hand weakly and without enthusiasm.

        
 So this is it.  This is how
our team finally ends. Just like that.

          The train gave a loud whistle blast. Cap watched as the two turned, arm in
arm, walking down the road toward downtown McCarthy until they finally
disappeared in the snow storm.  

McCarthy trestle out

West end of the
trestle crossing the Kennicott River undergoing repairs after a
"Pothole" washout.   --AK & Polar Regions archives


pothole
A "Pothole"
washout on the Kennicott River, McCarthy in background (looking
east).    --UAF & Polar Regions archives
          
Cap led the dog aboard and slumped deep down into the seat.  No one had boarded
at McCarthy. Only the attendant was on board. He was  in back stoking up
the coal stove.  The winds had sucked the warm air right out of the
large coach. Cap pulled his woolen blanket around himself. It was good.
          
Senior engineer Sal Reed had been checking the setting on the snow blade. It
was ready if it was needed.  The blade had to be set for any drifting
which might occur along the way.  Now Sal walked back and pulled himself
up into the high cab where the fireman had the pressure built up and
ready. 
          
Sal  Reed pulled the reverse lever, then set off the loud whistle.  The train
began moving toward the long trestle crossing at the Kennicott River. 
It gained  speed up as it made a run for the hill ahead.  Pusher No. 102
was coupled in place at the rear to help the load over the hill.  It
would take the combined effort of both to make it to Porphyry, which was
the highest point of the railbed west of McCarthy.  The line crew had
run ahead of the train on a motorized rail car , checking Kennicott
River crossing for any potential problems.  It had turned around on the
far side of the long trestle at the wye, where the it waited for the
train to pass, leaving the large engine and its consist on its own.
          
It all was looking routine as the engine began slowing down on the grade at the
southern slope of Fireweed Mountain,  leaving the Kennicott River valley
behind.  The train would stop at the summit and gravel pit named
Porphyry to disengage the pusher. The mogul pusher engine would then
back down the hill to Shushanna Junction where it was permanently
stationed.
          
Back in the Pullman combine just behind the engine’s tender,  Cap had fallen
into a deep sleep.   The dog was at his feet watching the attendant only
a few seats back at the coal stove.  Outside the moon was shining
through the clouds as the storm began moving out of the valley.
          
Cap began dreaming of walking the rails somewhere in the Chitina Valley on a
very hot and sunny day.  He was following the sun in the direction of
Nicolai’s camp, his shirt hanging off his belt as sweat trickled off his
bare back. It was just he and Kay-yew-nee.  But he felt safe. In the
distance, down a very long, straight section of track, he could see a
bright reflection of a spirit figure.

Maybe it was just the glint coming off the brass bell of a large train heading his way. 
Overhead those four large black ravens were flying in a wide circle.
          
It was a few hours later when Cap finally awoke.  Somehow he had slept through
the stop at Porphyry, Chokosna station and Dwyer’s Inn at Strelna.  But
he sensed that the train was pulling up the last grade into Chitina.  
He looked down.  There was Kay-yew-nee--the Ghost Spirit.
          
The train pulled up at the depot ever so slowly.  There was John’s mother
Helen Nicolai Gadanski waiting outside on the platform.  The snow storm
had vanished.  It was clear and cold as the stars shined brightly toward
the cold earth.
          
“Helen, good to see you.”
          
“Cap, son, good to see you too.”
          
Cap was not really her son.  For many years, Helen had called him that anyway.
          
“Is Johnny still with that woman at McCarthy?”
          
“Yes, Helen. Johnny is still in McCarthy with Rose Katrina.  He wanted you to
know he would be here in a day or so.”
          
“That Rose. I just don’t know about her.  Johnny should have stayed on this
train with you and with his father.”
          
“I guess you’re here for the coffin.”
         
“Someone has to wait for him.  I’m still his wife, you know.  My old man
Fred will bring a wagon to pick up the coffin. Everyone else is still at
dinner.  At least you’re here, yaaze.”
          
Helen hugged Cap.
          
“Let’s wait in the warm station until the wagon arrives.”
          
“That’s fine, son. We want you to join us for a late dinner of moose stew.  Have
you eaten?”
          
“No, and I haven’t had any moose stew since Green Butte.  I’ll be happy to
come up for dinner.”
          
“And to stay with us.”
          
“I suppose I should wait around town a few days for Johnny to return. Then
I need to go to Tonsina to see my father.”
          
“I’ll wait here to help with the coffin, then I think I’ll head down to the
billiards hall.  What I really need is a drink. Thanks for the offer for
moose stew and a place to stay.  I’ll be up later.”
          
Helen nodded.  She understood.  At least she thought she did. Cap would be
drinking tonight.  Just then the one-horse wagon came into view. There
were three men aboard.
          
“Fred brought plenty of help, Cap.  My other son Charles and uncle Tanas  have
come.”
          
Cap greeted the three men.
          
Charles wanted to know more about his brother.
          
“I miss him.  When will he be back?”
         
“Soon, Charles.  I’m going over to the hall now.”



horse wagon

Orr Stage Lines
wagon on east side of the Hotel Chitina  --Rita Hatch
          
“Help us with this coffin, would you, Cap?”
          
Cap assisted them in lifting the surprisingly light coffin onto the back of
the wagon. 
          
“Mom, I’m going with Cap.  I’ll bring him back when he’s done.”
         
“Charles, take care of your brother.  Bring him home.”
          
Cap looked at Charles with some annoyance.
          
“You don’t want to come with me.”
          
“I have to make sure you’re all right, Cap.  Johnny would expect it.  You always
took care of my brother. I will watch you and be your friend.  You look
like you need one.”
 
As the wagon pulled out, Helen yelled back.
          
“We’ll have moose stew up there and a place for you to stay for as long as you
want whenever you’re ready.  Charles will help you back if you get
drunk.”
          
He heard an old woman’s cackle as the wagon moved toward the Indian village
hill road.
          
“That’s good. I’ll be there,” he shouted back.
           
Cap walked the short distance toward the no-name billiards parlor and card
room.  He knew he could find some good whiskey there.  He was looking
forward to that now. 

         
I think I need that drink.  Maybe two or three.
Then I’ll head next
door and look for some women.

A loose woman. That’s what I want. Like the one Johnny has.

          
The dog knew where Cap was heading and rushed to the billiards hall, pawing at
the door until old Smitty opened it.  Behind him the younger man slipped
in the door and sat down on the bench.
          
“I may send you home early, Charles. But right now, I want to shoot some
billiards.  Care for a game? Have Smitty get me some hootch, would you?”
          
The moon moved into place, illuminating the small town. The stars were
sparkling with unusual intensity. Soon the Northern Lights would begin
their magical work.  It was already crispy as winter moved in with its
heavy, frigid air to claim its place in this small, remote, railroad
town of the 1920s, somewhere deep within the Territory of Alaska.
         


downtown Chitina
Birds-eye view of
Chitina in the 1920s focusing on Main Street.  --Fred
Machetanz, UAF AK & Polar Regions

Chapter 32: "Return to Chitina," Pt 1

       Looking over the ruined generators and turbines on the site of the burned-out
power plant, July 1924: in the background are some of the north
Kennecott cottages that were built in 1914



power plant fire aftermath



The four Erie
boilers were rebuilt in place, making them the oldest part of
the new power plant



power plant fire aftermath



Beginning the
reconstruction of the Kennecott power plant:


power plant fire aftermath



W.A. RIchelsen
photos
  
 Chitina Local No. 71 was steaming up in preparation for pulling out of Kennecott with the usual
load of thirty-five cars of bagged ore and a Pullman combination
passenger and baggage coach up front.  It was late in October.  The snow
which sat for three weeks at the level of Jumbo had finally dropped
4,000 feet down to Kennecott.  At first it was just a light dusting, but
a snow squall moved in to reinforce the first light layer.  The storm
began to intensify as morning moved toward the afternoon.   It began to
turn dark earlier than usual.  The spectacular view of the nearby
glacier dimmed until only a hint of the enormous mounds could be seen. 
At the front of the Pullman combine was the baggage compartment.  On its
floor sat the coffin of the late Emil Gadanski, father of Johnny, the
son who stood on the high coach floor just inside the open sliding door.





A CRNW combine and
three day coaches
          A large group of men from the many crews of the lower camp, as well as several
of the engineers from the office staff stood near the tracks in front of
the west barrack and company store in a silent tribute to the man who
had worked at Kennecott since the railroad arrived in 1911.  It was
thirteen years later. In those few years, only a handful could claim to
have been at camp from the very beginning.  A man who had become well
known among the mill site crews was taking his final journey home to
Chitina, accompanied by a son and an in-law who had worked a brief time
with him as his life came to a close in this remote camp of the lower
slopes of the Wrangells.

          The group had assembled on a very short notice.  Johnny Gadanski wanted to
leave immediately, but Bill Douglass held up the train long enough for
the group to perform a small memorial ceremony at the station for a man
who was very well liked.   John Bittner played Amazing Grace on
his trumpet, causing all the women present and several of the men to
break down.
          
Johnny was moved by this unexpected show of emotion for this man who was his
father. He would leave seeing these residents of Kennecott in a much
different light.  The group was saying goodbye to one of their own.  The
camp always rallied behind its own. It was a temporary camp.  Yet it had
a permanent look.  The people who lived there became one large family. 
It was the odd magic of Kennecott which united them.
         
Superintendent Douglass and Frank Buckner had come down to the front of
the train to see the late Emil off and to say farewell to Johnny and
Cap.  Even Bill Morris and Eldon Johnson had come down from the mines to
pay their respects. Chris Jensen came over to shake the hand of Johnny
and say a few words of remembrance for Emil, who had worked under him, 
as well as some words of appreciation to the son who was now there to
escort the body to its final resting place. 
          
Johnny asked Frank to send a telegraph to McCarthy to alert Rose that he would
be coming through.  He hoped to convince her to accompany him to
Chitina.  The air turned even colder as the glacier valley darkened. 
Heavy, fresh, wet snow began to whip around, splattering everything.  
Engine 71 built up a large head of steam and blasted a single, loud
whistle signal.  The crowd backed away from the rails as the locomotive
began to pull forward, its valves steaming loudly as it  strained
against the nearly 4000-ton load.   
          
There were no other passengers aboard.  The coach attendant moved to the
separate passenger area, as Johnny and Cap stood at the open cargo door,
waving at  Frank Buckner, Bill Douglass, Chris Jensen and all the others
who stood by until the train moved out of sight, while the others began
returning to the warmth of the various buildings.  It was becoming too
nasty to remain outdoors.  The attendant returned to the front and
closed the first of the two cargo doors.  Cap closed the second,
snapping the latch into its locked position.  They moved to the stove in
the baggage compartment, but it was cold.
          
“The stove in the rear is hot.  You might as well come on back, boys. You’ve
already done your part up here.  It’s too cold here for the living.”
          
The Indians walked all the way to the rear of the fifty-five foot-long
coach.  The train had begun its 600-foot descent into McCarthy.  It
would arrive in a matter of minutes.  The Indians warmed their hands
with the heat of the coal pot-belly stove.
          
“I never thought I’d see anything like this, Cap.  They came out in the
cold to see Dad off. It made me feel very special to be a part of what
just happened back there. Those people were genuine. I feel humbled.”
          
“They do come together for one of their own, don’t they?  It’s hard not to be
affected by what just happened. It was good to be there.  Thank you for
this experience, Sla’cheen.   We did what we said we would.”
          
“I wish we could have brought Dad back to Chitina alive so Mom could have taken
care of him, like we planned.  We stayed too long.  No one seemed to
realize just how sick he was.  I think he knew when he talked to me over
the phone that last time, but he wanted me to stay on at Erie.  What do
you make of that, Cap?”



McCarthy
McCarthy in winter 
--Ben Jackson photo
          
Sla’cheen, his real home was not Chitina. It was Kennecott. He died where he wanted
to die.  He never wanted to leave there. It was his choice.  We’re
taking him to our home because it makes us feel better, but your father
is already home.”
          
Cap looked in the direction of the glacier, but saw nothing but snow
swirling as the winds continued to swirl the snow around in no
particular direction.  The first snow storm of the season seemed to be
an unusually large one.
          
“It seems to fit, Johnny.  It’s the sloo-elth’chee--the wind coming
off the glacier.  It’s as if the Great Creator himself is greeting your
father.”
          
He remained silent for the remainder of the brief trip into the junction.
          
“It is our time to go.  We made our point just as we set out to do. We even had
a good time doing it.  I may return someday.  But this is not my life. 
It was just an experience.  It will be good to be home again.”  
         
Johnny did not reply.  Cap continued.
          
“What about Rose?  Do you think she’ll be coming along?”
          
“Who knows?  I want her to come with me back to Chitina.  We’ll have time to
leave the train at McCarthy and check on her anyway.  I have a dog to
pick up.  I hope Kay-yew-nee is still there.”
          
“Oh that’s right.  Yew nee!  I’ll bet he wondered what happened to us. I’d
like to use him on my trap line this winter.”
          
“Why don’t you do that, Cap?  The dog likes the wilds better than being in
town anyway.  He’s just like you. Wild, but solid and reliable.”
          
There was no more conversation until the train reached Shushanna Junction near
McCarthy.   Both young men stood up, straining to see ahead beyond the
blowing snows toward the station platform.  Sure enough, the lean dark
figure of Rose was there, well dressed with a large hat held in place by
a bandanna.  Right beside her was the Siberian mutt, happily waving his
tail with his ears straight up in eager anticipation. It was as if he
knew his old masters were returning.  
          
Johnny and Rose  hugged for a long time on the platform and then kissed while
Cap idly played with the dog.  Cap was hoping this would not go on too
long. He wanted to get on with the trip.   He hoped that he would not
end up overnight in McCarthy simply because Rose was unable to make up
her mind about leaving with Johnny.   He began to feel a sense of
despondency.   He knew that after he arrived at Chitina, the long
standing team would finally end. Cap found himself already regretting 
something which had not yet happened.

      
   Maybe I better concentrate
on doing my winter trapping.  If I’m lucky, I’ll find one of the
local girls to come along with me for the winter--maybe Shirley or even
Violet.  No, not Violet.
           
I’d like to run a trapping line near Tonsina like I did
years ago with my father.         
Haven’t heard anything about him since I left.  He must still
be in good health. Maybe I’ll stay with him in Tonsina while I’m getting
ready to trap. First I’d like to have a good time at the billiards hall.
I think I could use a stiff drink.  There’s usually good female company
in the saloon next door.





North approach
into Chitina   --R.K.Woods Coll. UAF AK & Polar
Regions
        

      Continue

06 February 2011

Chapter 31: "Departing the Camp," Pt 3

Neither Johnny nor Cap had ridden on this type of tram before.  The tram
operator emphasized the need to duck on approaching  the support towers
          
“. . . so as to keep your head from being whacked off.”
           
The aerial tram had a deadly reputation.  The trams would kill or injure
considerably more men than was ever the case within the underground
workings.  The tram operator went on with his brief safety lecture.

Junction Station
The junction
station where the Glacier tram met the Jumbo tram.  
--Candy Waugaman Collection
          
“People have fallen off or lost their heads or been otherwise mangled so
frequently  that there were times when management banned the use of the
trams by us miners.  But this tram and the one at Bonanza are the only
practical way to get back and forth. So be very careful out there--and
don’t look down. Always look up and foreword, especially near the tram
towers.”
          
He ushered them aboard, one at a time.  Johnny was the first one on.  Frank
was the last. The operator separated the empty buckets by only one
hundred feet.  When the buckets left the 1,800 tunnel, the tram line 
immediately passed through a long, heavily reinforced timber breakover. 
Once the riders were free of the break-over, they had a brief glimpse of
the three main barracks lined up in a crooked row as they overlooked the
Jumbo rock glacier.  The cables inclined slightly as they passed over
the rock glacier, thus allowing this brief view.  
          
Johnny sunk down low into his bucket, pulling his heavy woolen Hudson Bay
blanket around himself.  It was very brisk out in the open. Then he
realized it was bright white everywhere.  The snow which fell over the
Jumbo mine site three weeks ago was still there.  He looked back,
noticing the row of three narrow, two-story frame structures.  They
appeared to be leaning slightly in the direction of the glacier.  There
were several smaller structures on the slopes above them.  He turned
completely around. There was Castle Rock, lightly capped in bright white
snow a thousand feet above the camp. The skies were turning gray, and
the wind was picking up.  His steel bucket began swinging as it was hit
by a series of heavy gusts, giving him a sudden case of nervousness. 
One-hundred feet back he saw Cap’s bucket emerge from the break-over. 
Cap waved and smiled.  Johnny felt better.
          
Then the tram took a sudden, heart-stopping dip into a very sharp decline as
it began a rapid descent through a narrow opening between two peaks on
its way toward the Junction Station, about 8,000 feet down the line from
Jumbo.  Johnny felt his stomach drop out of himself as his bucket took
that quick plunge.

Knowing he shouldn’t, he closed his eyes.  Fearing sudden death more than the
heights, Johnny opened his eyes in time to see that his bucket was on
the path of an enormously steep drop-off heading through a series of
wooden towers.  He didn’t feel so brave today. Below him the snow cover
had given way to bare rock.
          
The men would leave the small ore buckets at the mid-point of station no. 3,
then take another set of buckets for the remainder of the  ride to the
mill base.  The Glacier tram intersected the Jumbo tram at the station.
During most of the 1920s, low-grade ore came down the Glacier tram from
the Glacier surface mine during the summertime.  The Glacier Mine was an
open-pit operation.  William Douglass decided to run a Bagley scraper
during the three warm months to remove ore which had eroded from the
high-grade Bonanza outcropping a thousand feet above the rock glacier. 
The ore had fallen away from its exposed southern end, which was 
revealed within the high wall of an old glacial cirque.  The copper was 
mixed with broken host-rock limestone and the ice of a rapidly melting
mountain glacier hundreds of feet below.  It was this exposed ore which
Smith and Warner first discovered a quarter century before, naming it
the Bonanza.


Glacier Mine Tram
Upper tram
terminal of the Glacier Mine, the 1920s.   --McCarthy-Kennicott
Museum
         
Altogether it was a forty-five minute ride to the tram base at the top
of the mill.  The party arrived one-by-one on the large loading dock
near the top of the mill on the twelfth level.  The Chitina Indians had
never been through the mill.  They stood waiting on the landing until
Frank’s bucket arrived.  He led them toward the front end of the mill
where the steep stairway followed a winding route to the Hancock Jig
floor, six levels below.  This was the center-point of the mill.  The
Hancock Jig extended out of the long south-face of the mill as an
annex.  It had a double-door exit with a machine hoist and an exterior
stairway leading straight down to the office.  The sidewalk continued
past the office to the hospital.  Frank watched as the two Indians
continued on to the hospital.
          
Seeing no reason to follow the two into the hospital, Frank returned to the
office.  He told John Bittner to begin filling out the paperwork
discharging the two men. He heard the phone ring in the next office. 
The young receptionist came out to Bittner’s window near the main door.
          
“Frank, you better head down there to the hospital to help.  Emil has already
passed away.   Doctor Gillespie tells me that Johnny is beside himself.”
          
Frank sat down for a few moments to fully catch his breath.  It had been a
record-breaking trip from Erie to the office.  Frank looked at his
watch.  They had made the trip all the way from Erie in barely more than
an hour, but they had arrived too late.  Now it was left to Frank to
somehow comfort Johnny.
          
“Why me ? I’m an engineer.”
          
“You’re their sponsor.  You’ve been their friend from the beginning. You took on
the responsibility yourself.  Now, you’re the one who has to see this
through.”
          
It was Bill Douglass’s voice.
         
“Son, I know you’ve been through this before as an officer.  You can manage it. 
Go down there and see what needs to be done. You’ll do the right thing.
You’ll do fine.”
          
Russell had slipped quietly down the narrow stairwell from the map room above.
          
“I don’t envy you, Frank.  Sorry you had to rush back under these
circumstances.   Good luck down there.”
         
“Thanks, Russell.  When is the Chitina Local leaving?” 
          
Bill Douglass spoke up.
          
“We won’t make it today, even though Chris Jensen already has a casket made
up. Their Dad’s room at west barrack is available for them.  We’ll have
to put them up there until tomorrow’s train.”
          
“I’ll walk over there with them, boss.”
         
“Did they bring back their belongings from camp?”
          
“Yes sir.  All they have is their bedrolls.  They’re Hudson Bay blankets.  I
think that’s all they brought to Kennecott when they first got here.”
          
Frank stepped outside and noticed that Old Glory was whipping around angrily.
It had turned from mildly windy to dark gray and gusty.  A movement
caught his eye. He looked up above  the roof line of the hospital.  Four
very large ravens were circling high above the hospital, riding the
first cold winds of a rapidly approaching winter.



Jumbo Tram Terminal
Jumbo tram
terminal at the top of the Kennecott mill.   
--Candy Waugaman Collection



Continue with Chapter 32: "Return to Chitina"


Chapter 31: "Departing the Camp," Pt 2

Frank walked down the hall of the old building.  It was one of the two oldest
on the site and was primitive, dark and drafty.  The engineers and
foremen maintained offices and rooms there.  Several years ago the
company moved most of the men in the much newer and larger Barracks No.
4. The management and support staff remained in the oldest building.
Frank walked down the narrow hallway with the creaking floor to the
office in a front corner looking toward the aerial tram.  Bill Morris
was seated at his large desk examining one of Frank’s engineering
drawings.


Jumbo Mine View 1
The Jumbo camp
circa 1920.   --McCarthy-Kennicott Museum
         
“Frank.  I was just looking at these.  It sure doesn’t look like much
after what we’re used to here at Jumbo, does it?”
          
“No.  There’s not really much out there, Bill.  I’ll probably want your men to
run some prospect tunnels into each one of them, starting with this
third one.  It looks like the most promising of the four.
          
“Bill, I got a phone call from the office.  I need the battery locomotive
ready.  Could you call down there and have it waiting for me at the
landing? I’m heading to the incline now.  Have to go over to the Erie
side and bring back the Indians.”
          
“It’s over?”
          
“Looks like it to me, Bill.  I’m escorting them back to camp.  Emil’s probably
not going to make it.”
          
It took ten minutes for Frank to reach the 1,500 level of the Jumbo incline. 
The operator stood ready with the new rechargeable Westinghouse
locomotive pulling five large, empty ore cars.  It took another twelve
minutes to reach the Erie incline close to the main portal of the camp.
          
Johnny and Cap were working down the new incline near the 300 level where one
of the tunnels led to an adit at the surface on a high cliff above Root 
Glacier.  The tunnel opening kept the area well ventilated.  
          
Like the other inclines, this one had a stairwell compartment paralleling a
set of thirty-inch skip tracks.  It proved to be quite a long run down
the stairs to the working level at its base.  Eldon Johnson was near the
landing, supervising the incline extension work crew.
          
“Frank, what a surprise to see you here.  Thought you’d be working up  on the
main level in the new prospect area.  Is there a problem?”
         
“Actually, Eldon, there is.  I need to have you release Johnny Gadanski
and Cap Goodlataw for me.  I’ve come to notify him that his father is
very ill. We don’t expect him to last.  I imagine both he and Cap will
be leaving the job for the season under these circumstances. I’ll be
escorting them out of here.”
          
“Sorry about Emil.  I’ve heard many good things about him, though I don’t
personally know the man.  I regret even more that we’ll probably lose
two of my best men.  Oh well, these things happen.  I’ll summon them for
you and let you tell them.” 
           
Eldon turned and headed farther into the darkness of the shaft.  Somewhere out
of Frank’s  sight he could hear Eldon yell out for the two.  Like the
other miners and muckers,  these men were dressed in heavy work clothing
and rubber boots suitable for the deep mining environment with its 
below-freezing temperatures and constant winds running throughout the
tunnels.  With the helmets they were wearing and the light-colored grime
covering them, they were indistinguishable from anyone else in the
workings. 


Jumbo Mine View 2
View from rear
of Jumbo camp looking down the Kennicott Glacier 
--McCarthy-Kennicott Museum
          
“Hello, guys.  I’m sorry to be the one to have to tell you this, Johnny, but
your father has turned gravely ill.  Doctor Gillespie does not expect
him to last much longer.  The suddenness of it is a surprise to all of
us.  He’s having extreme trouble breathing. We don’t think he’ll leave
the hospital alive.”
          
Johnny stared at Frank, his mouth slowly opening, then he darted straight for
the incline shaft, not waiting for Frank.  Cap followed.  As he brushed
past the engineer, he yelled back.
         
“Bastards, you should have told me sooner.”  
          
Eldon emerged from the darkness.          

“We’ll take care of the paperwork at the office. I’m quite sure they won’t be
back.  I’ve got a long run back up those stairs to catch up with them. 
They don’t know how to get back to camp the fast way.”
          
Frank rushed back up the incline stairs.   Somewhere far ahead he could hear
Johnny and Cap running up the thirty-degree shaft  toward the main
level.  It was a long exhausting trek up the new stairwell.  Frank
sprinted all the way up. By the time the engineer reached the top, he
found the two out of breath at the 100 level landing.
          
“Look, Johnny, no one realized how ill your father is.  He was still working a
few days ago. Then he told us he needed to take some time off.  It never
occurred to anyone to have him checked.  When someone finally found him
in his room we rushed him over to the hospital.”
          
Cap, standing behind Johnny, looked toward Frank and signaled with a silent
okay sign. 


           Johnny looks very depressed. He seems to have lost his
energy.  As usual, the two balance each other well.   Johnny is far more
subject to stress than Cap, I would guess.    Cap seems to  serve as a
buffer to Johnny.  Similarly,  I’ve seen Johnny hold Cap back from
engaging in an unnecessary confrontation with some of the loudmouths we
occasionally have working here.

         
“Look, you guys, leaving the mining outfits in the changing room, then  get
your gear together.  I’ll return with you to camp.   The fastest way
back is not the way you arrived here over the glacier trail.  I’ve
already got a mine locomotive standing by at the Erie portal.  Those
iron rails your sitting on that head into the darkness away from Erie
extend all the way to the Jumbo incline and beyond.  We’ll ride them
and  hoist to the surface and then ride the aerial tram back down to
Kennecott.”
          
Cap looked puzzled. He had never heard of underground locomotives.  No one
on the present crew had ever seen it. The battery-powered engine would
soon begin making regular runs once the Erie incline began sending ore
to the 100 level.  But Cap nodded and followed Johnny toward the
barracks rooms.  Frank followed.  Up ahead, as the tunnel veered left,
the line of five cars stood by.  The operator had turned the locomotive
around and had moved it to the front, so he could use the headlamp for
the return trip.  Cap and Johnny both stopped long enough to look at the
curiosity, then they rushed off to the barrack.
          
The two Indians showed up at Eldon’s office, where Frank patiently waited. They
still had light-colored mine dust grime on their faces.  Johnny came in
and slumped down into the chair.  Cap moved in place behind him.
          
“I’m sorry, Frank.  I didn’t mean to swear at you like that.  I’m sure you
can understand.  We have our potlatch blankets, which is all we brought
with us,  and now we need to get back to camp by the fastest way we
can.  Did you say something to Cap about using the underground
locomotive?”
          
“That’s the one you just passed.  It’s there just for us, so we can make a fast
run to the Jumbo inline, which leads to the surface where an aerial tram
will bring us back to camp.”
         
“Then, let’s go.”
          
The two were out the second story door and down the stairs in a flash. They
rushed down the covered, elevated board walk for the portal.  Inside
they passed through a winding corridor, cut very unevenly because it was
originally just a prospect hole.  The first several hundred feet ran a
very crooked line around winzes, raises and prospect drifts before
reaching the main haulage tunnel.


haulage tunnel
A battery
locomotive in front of a line of ore cars in a main haulage
tunnel in the Kennecott mines, likely the 1500 Cross Cut between
Erie and Jumbo   --McCarthy-Kennicott Museum
          
The operator waved them aboard. He started to pull out as they boarded,
gaining speed until it was silently racing down the long quiet tunnels. 
The company still had not finished installing the overhead lighting on
the Erie end of the new cross-cut. The tunnel was illuminated entirely
by the large front-facing lamp as it whirred toward the Jumbo incline
1500 level landing. 
          
Frank Buckner had been involved in shooting the line for the new  cross-cut
connection from the Erie 100 level side on the extreme northwest.  The
tunnel would have been shot in a straight line except for the presence
of the Amazon Gulch rock glacier somewhere overhead.  To avoid any
problems with the natural grinding glacier action,  the engineers veered
the tunnel north outside the preferred path. This caused the tunnel to
temporarily leave the desired level near the contact zone.  Finally the
tunnel swung back into place. Somewhere directly ahead in the darkness
was the Jumbo incline.
          
The top speed of the battery vehicle was just over ten miles per hour.   The
group arrived at their destination in ten minutes, even though the
tunnel seemed to go on and on.
          
“How much farther does it go, Frank?”
        



Kennecott Mine workings
General Mine
Workings at Kennecott, Jumbo to Bonanza and Mother Lode


“This tunnel ? When we’re done with it, Cap, this tunnel will end on the far
side of the ridge.  It’ll be over four miles long, coming out somewhere
above McCarthy Creek in a place known as Independence Gulch.  It’ll be
the longest tunnel in Alaska.  Frank, like Johnny and Cap, found himself
wanting to get out of the mines as quickly as possible.
          
The Jumbo had a very large incline which dwarfed the one being built at
Erie.  It was double-tracked so it could hoist in balance.  This was
necessary due to the projected length of the incline, which was expected
to continue down another thousand vertical feet, making it the longest
of the incline shafts at over a mile in rail distance. That would be an
impossibly long run for a single-track system.  Even down to the 1,500 level, 
the run was considered a long one, as it was over half a mile long.
          
With the hoist-in-balance system,  one set of loaded ore buckets moved toward
the surface while the other set returned to the ore stopes, which was
the working area.  The special man-skips were in place when the three
men arrived.  An attendant was on hand to see them aboard.


Jumbo Tram


The Jumbo
tram, looking toward Kennicott Glacier and the Chugach Range. 
--Candy Waugaman Collection
          
He signaled the hoist operator 1,550 feet above.  It took another ten
minutes to reach the surface, which was the 180 level tunnel.  The was
the new main adit level, where a large conveyor transported the ore from
the end of the skip dump to the ore bins at the back end of the top of
the aerial tram.  The tram terminus had been moved underground in 1919
to protect the men from the heavy winds and extreme cold temperatures at
the surface and to otherwise speed up the tram-bucket loading
operation.  
          
The men off-loaded from the personnel skip at the upper level and followed the
ore conveyor belt to a point near the surface where the top of the Jumbo
tram was set to haul ore to the mill.  Loaded ore buckets were already
on the line ahead of them, moving out in two-hundred-foot intervals.  It
is the weight of those loads which  caused the tram to move down at the
proper speed of about five miles per hour.  An operator waited at the
platform to help them on board.